Just got back from EFI Parts where i've had my new setup by Chris
What a superb setup he has the knowledge and drivability of the car is so so so much better.
After finding out the Dyno where i had the last engine setup is known for wildly over reading BHP figures, i was always very suspect of the BHP it
claimed to have, there was nothing wrong with setup just to me didn't feel like it had the power it claimed.
So after seeing a for sale advert on TurboSport for a ST170 engine that had some £££ money spent on it but was in needing of being put back together i
bought the job lot, sold the original engine (which i now believe is going into a westfield)
So the new engine spec as below:
30,000 miles ST170 bottom end, new bolts and bearing throughout, 1800 Zetec flywheel fully lightened & balanced, new gaskets bolts etc etc
ST170 cylinder head with a Ian Howells conversion, removed the VVT, new cam wheel pulleys and dowelled to stop spinning, smoothed port matched inlet
ports to manifold & head, exhaust ports expanded, widened and fully smoothed, all VVT oil ways converted all valves fitted & reseated.
Altiss engineering, Zetec inlet manifold fitted to a set of 2007 Hayabussa throttle bodies, bodies have been fully spaced with new fuel connections,
throttle bodies have been mounted upside down so no wiring or injectors can be seen, looks very old school, original hayabussa injectors used, the
inlet manifold has been matched to the cylinder head inlet ports.
Anyhow now fast forward to yesterday 6th July, the engine is now all assembled and car is loaded onto trailer for it trip down to EFI Parts@Runcorn
once strapped into the rollers Chris checked over the original map and as i suspected it wasn't very clever, so in no time all the sensors have
now been calibrated correctly, and then onto the starting of the mapping
I'm always very nervous especially as the engine is freshly built, but i needed not to be worried as nothing went wrong and it all stayed
together perfectly.
so after just over 3 hrs have passed we do the 1st power run
we see just over 204bhp to which i'm very very pleased about as 200bhp was the target
then some further tweaks and the 2nd run
we see 206.1bhp and the engine is still making power at the 7500rpm limiter, Chris said we can try take it further but i decided to not try and chase
a couple more BHP and leave the limiter at the safe 7500rpm (i took some advice of what the standard bottom ends are good for and was told 7600rpm is
fine but don't push them much more on standard rods & bolts)
So we got the car off the roller and Chris take it for a drive see what you think, Well what can i say the difference was like night & day the
engine is so revvy and once past 6000rpm it comes alive and just goes and goes and compared to the old map on the old engine it would simply leave it
standing.
Drivability is superb it pulls cleanly from 1500rpm and feels strong with 125ft-lb of torque from 2500rpm onwards right up to maximum 159.4ft-lb
we then came back and had a play around setting up the Lambda closed loop as i really wanted some fuel economy when going on a long drive.
To anyone who is in any doubt of what can be achieved from a ST170 engine i believe the above is proof enough that they are 200bhp engine setup
correctly by a professional mapper.
Yes i know mine has a modified cylinder head which will make a difference but the work i had had done on mine wouldn't cost the earth to have
done on any ST170 cylinder head & then combined with a VCT delete you have the magic 200bhp engine without the cost of cams and expensive bottom
end work.
I know more could be had from the engine in midrange by keeping the VCT and changing the ECU to allow Cam Phase and PWM but it all comes down to cost
and having to spent near £1000 just for a ECU to do this isn't an option for me.
I hope now anyone else who's gone down the ST170 VCT delete route isn't disappointed and they achieve the results they are after
for the 1st time of the owning the car i'm finally happy with the engine setup & with weather like this i've already burnt through £50
worth of super plus today
(next on shopping list is a better ratio gearbox mostly likely BGH HD Type 9)
quote:Originally posted by jeffw
Just to be clear this is a standard ST170 with some headwork but no cams/rods/pistons ? What did it make at the wheels ?
correct completely standard engine, except for headwork and VCT delete it made 170bhp@wheels
That's good power, just out of interest what tb's are you using? And what size?
Only thing I would say is your loosing a lot thru the transmission, normally 25bhp max, your loosing 36?
Always suggest to my customers to not bother with vvt, a delete kit (or other means) then set cam timing on the dyno for best power curve.
We did the same on a Honda type R, retained the vtec but fixed the vvt, worked great.
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quote:Originally posted by BaileyPerformance
That's good power, just out of interest what tb's are you using? And what size?
Only thing I would say is your loosing a lot thru the transmission, normally 25bhp max, your loosing 36?
Always suggest to my customers to not bother with vvt, a delete kit (or other means) then set cam timing on the dyno for best power curve.
We did the same on a Honda type R, retained the vtec but fixed the vvt, worked great.
Hayabusa 2007 TB's 52mm
I suppose the loss is only done on a % factor and this can vary between 15-20%
so with 170bhp@wheels with a 15% factor this is 25bhp with 20% this is 34bhp as with all RR the estimated flywheel power is always a variable
But a good estimated guess is that my engine is doing near as possible 200bhp@flywheel which is what i was really hoping for
I personally thought it would only get around 185bhp+ which i still would have been happy with, so to get the power it did i'm over the moon.
I would really like to see what a totally stock engine with TB's and fixed timing will make, of course it would need to done at EFI parts to get
a fair comparison (my guess would be 185bhp@flywheel) and proves the ST170 is good choice of engine in totally stock trim.
For me now i'm no going to push the motor anymore or spend money on cams and bottom end work, if i want more power i will just fit a turbo
engine
170 Wheel HP is a good result....the crank figure is not something that is very important as there is a level of hocus pocus with all dynos/dyno
operators when it comes to crank figures.
