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Author: Subject: Vibration when driving
Sloan85

posted on 4/9/13 at 08:17 PM Reply With Quote
Vibration when driving

So I drove back from the IVA today which included 20 miles on the M1. I kept it between 60 and 70 when on the motorway but there was a lot of vibration through the floor/chassis. The vbration was making the vision in the mirrors blurry it was that bad.

This was the first proper drive for me so I wasn't sure if this normal for these cars? What could be done to reduce vibration?

Cheers





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madteg

posted on 4/9/13 at 08:24 PM Reply With Quote
Could be wheels out of balance but would guess its the prop if self made.
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ReMan

posted on 4/9/13 at 08:34 PM Reply With Quote
Never mind the vibration and noise, did it pass?





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Ben_Copeland

posted on 4/9/13 at 08:42 PM Reply With Quote
Either back wheels or propshaft would be first check





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Sloan85

posted on 4/9/13 at 08:53 PM Reply With Quote
Wheels I assume to be balanced when they arrived from Wheelbasealloys (all wheels have the weights on, none have fallen off). Prop is sierra modified by MK. What should I be looking for on the prop?

The vibration isn't noticeable when going through the rev range, probably because I was busy thinking "this is awesome!" as I was ragging it up to 11k rpm :-) It did get a bit frustrating on the motorway though.

quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Never mind the vibration and noise, did it pass?


Yup, passed no probs. Only had to tweak the power commander slightly, add a label to my reverse switch and file a sharp edge on the exhaust mounting bracket. DVLA to deal with next.

[Edited on 4/9/13 by Sloan85]





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madteg

posted on 4/9/13 at 09:00 PM Reply With Quote
Nip it down to kwikfit for a free balance check, if not out there will be no charge. At least then you know its not them.
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Ben_Copeland

posted on 4/9/13 at 09:01 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Sloan85
Wheels I assume to be balanced when they arrived from Wheelbasealloys (all wheels have the weights on, none have fallen off). Prop is sierra modified by MK. What should I be looking for on the prop?

The vibration isn't noticeable when going through the rev range, probably because I was busy thinking "this is awesome!" as I was ragging it up to 11k rpm :-) It did get a bit frustrating on the motorway though.

quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Never mind the vibration and noise, did it pass?


Yup, passed no probs. Only had to tweak the power commander slightly, add a label to my reverse switch and file a sharp edge on the exhaust mounting bracket. DVLA to deal with next.

[Edited on 4/9/13 by Sloan85]


Cheapest check is to do wheels first, never assume that someone hasn't made a mistake.

Then check prop balance weight hasn't come off. I hope mk didn't just shorten prop and send back!!!





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ReMan

posted on 4/9/13 at 09:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Sloan85
Wheels I assume to be balanced when they arrived from Wheelbasealloys (all wheels have the weights on, none have fallen off). Prop is sierra modified by MK. What should I be looking for on the prop?

The vibration isn't noticeable when going through the rev range, probably because I was busy thinking "this is awesome!" as I was ragging it up to 11k rpm :-) It did get a bit frustrating on the motorway though.

quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Never mind the vibration and noise, did it pass?


Yup, passed no probs. Only had to tweak the power commander slightly, add a label to my reverse switch and file a sharp edge on the exhaust mounting bracket. DVLA to deal with next.

[Edited on 4/9/13 by Sloan85]


Great news, well done

Do you mean its not there under load?
I doubt is wheels, unless your feeling it through the steering wheel badly.
is it a harsh tinny vibration/noise, or a duller throbbing when sitting at a constant speed? Solid mounted engines will put a bit of vibration through the car, and dont forget BECs are not for motorway use
Can you feel the vibration on the tunnel, like its the prop?
Any more clues?





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Ben_Copeland

posted on 4/9/13 at 09:11 PM Reply With Quote
You don't get vibration in the steering wheel if its the back wheels





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Slimy38

posted on 4/9/13 at 10:46 PM Reply With Quote
My first thought was 'that is how my bike feels at particular speeds', right down to the blurred wing mirrors. It has a 'reverse sweet spot' where it's really uncomfortable to ride. Ten miles up or down and it smooths out again. It also happens in other gears at the same rev range.

Since you have a BEC, it might be worth seeing if it is rev related, drop it down a cog and drive at the same revs.

[Edited on 4/9/13 by Slimy38]

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Mr Whippy

posted on 4/9/13 at 11:25 PM Reply With Quote
60 mph is the normal speed for imbalanced wheels to show up, is worse in lightweight cars. Kwikfit are hopeless at getting it right btw as their machines are not calibrated well I ended up going to a specialist fitter who did it right first time.
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40inches

posted on 5/9/13 at 07:59 AM Reply With Quote
Mine is pretty bad around 70, 5mph either side and it is Ok. A winter upgrade is a TRT and prop balance.
There is also high frequency vibration around 4000rpm, another winter mod is to rubber mount the engine cradle.
All this pails into insignificance taking into account that the gearbox is mullered 4500 miles on the bike and 1000 in the MK, but not unusual even on a bike, apparently they are made from cheese
So an "E" or Z1000 box as another winter mod, or possibly a Mazda V6 transplant.






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britishtrident

posted on 5/9/13 at 08:12 AM Reply With Quote
With wheel balancing the knowledge of the the guy working the machine is the critical thing.
Front wheels need a full dynamic balance but you can quite often get away with tatic balance.

For rear wheels a simple static balance will usually be good enough, you can use a spirit level balancer for this or weld up a simple hand spun static balancer up using an old stub axle & wheel hub of the correct pcd. The one I made for balancing Imp wheels used the bottom an old front strut from a Chrysler Avenger and an Imp front hub.
Essentially this is just a bracket to hold the stub axle horizontal, to reduce friction the wheel bearing should have the seals removed and the grease washed out using WD40. The important thing is to reduce the bearing friction as much as possible so adjust the end float allow a little more clearance than normal.

Mount the wheel and spin the wheel at a reasonable speed and wait until it naturally comes to complete rest. Mark the lowest point of the tyre with chalk. Repeat the process if the wheel stops in approximately the same place you have found the heaviest point on the tyre.

[Edited on 5/9/13 by britishtrident]





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Slimy38

posted on 5/9/13 at 08:47 AM Reply With Quote
I might have mentioned this on another post, but I have also noticed that some wheel balancing places only put weights on one edge (or even the inside flat surface of the wheel), whereas others have machines that say what weights have to go on what edge. I don't know whether there is a significant difference?
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Sloan85

posted on 5/9/13 at 11:44 AM Reply With Quote
It felt like a very high frequency vibration. Would have a guess it is prop or engine related, not wheels.





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whitestu

posted on 5/9/13 at 12:05 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

Then check prop balance weight hasn't come off. I hope mk didn't just shorten prop and send back!!!



I think that is all they ever do isn't it?

I've never heard of them balancing a prop.

Stu

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DavidW

posted on 5/9/13 at 12:10 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by whitestu
quote:

Then check prop balance weight hasn't come off. I hope mk didn't just shorten prop and send back!!!



I think that is all they ever do isn't it?

I've never heard of them balancing a prop.

Stu


I think I have this problem with my MK shortened prop. I've changed wheels and problem remained.

Can I get the prop balanced or do I need to buy a new one from somewhere?

David

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Bluemoon

posted on 5/9/13 at 01:05 PM Reply With Quote
^^ You can get the existing one re-balanced but it maybe not much more to get a new one made by a prop-shaft supplier (MK re-use the UJ at one end of the prop, it maybe best to start with a new one)...

Something I may look at eventually..

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DavidW

posted on 5/9/13 at 02:05 PM Reply With Quote
Interesting, who are the favoured suppliers?

I only really notice i in 5th at speed, does the collective think this really is the prop?

Thanks and sorry for the thread hijack.

David

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Bluemoon

posted on 5/9/13 at 02:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by DavidW
Interesting, who are the favoured suppliers?

I only really notice i in 5th at speed, does the collective think this really is the prop?

Thanks and sorry for the thread hijack.

David


Should happen in all gears at the same speed (as the prop rotation rate is fixed with relation to road speed)... If it goes away at the same speed in 4th it's not the prop..

Dan

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Mr Whippy

posted on 5/9/13 at 04:33 PM Reply With Quote
Test the prop by simply taking off a rear wheel and running it in gear, any vibration must then be the prop...
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Smoking Frog

posted on 5/9/13 at 09:24 PM Reply With Quote
Diff bolts tight?
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Rogthebandit

posted on 29/9/13 at 06:45 AM Reply With Quote
Hi

Mine was vibrating also when crusing on and off the throttle. It was the prop phase that was wrong. I realigned it and its a different car. No vibs at any speeds and revs right thru to over 100 mph with no issues. Going to put a cush drive in the prop over chrimbo.

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jacko

posted on 29/9/13 at 03:54 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Rogthebandit
Hi

Mine was vibrating also when crusing on and off the throttle. It was the prop phase that was wrong. I realigned it and its a different car. No vibs at any speeds and revs right thru to over 100 mph with no issues. Going to put a cush drive in the prop over chrimbo.





Hi when you say realigned it how did you do that ? just twisted the joint at one end ?
Thanks jacko

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Rogthebandit

posted on 30/9/13 at 03:53 AM Reply With Quote
Hi jacko

Ya i turned the spline through 90 deg on the front section of the prop. Massive different. I am going to put a cush drive in also then rebalance.

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