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Author: Subject: Getting garage ready for the winter!
prawnabie

posted on 26/11/13 at 07:50 PM Reply With Quote
Getting garage ready for the winter!

Hi Guys,

Im looking for a bit of help from the locost massive!

My parents have a sectional concrete garage with a concrete base in the corner of their garden that is attached to their neighbours garage. The roof is corrugated fibre (I assume some kind of asbestos material) which has several layers of bitumen painted on (outside). There is a large steel front up and over door and also a wooden door in the side. The roof has a slant which deposits the water into a channel in the concrete beam above the main steel door - this then runs into a down pipe inside the side pillar and out the the front of the side pillar at the bottom.

I need to get the garage waterproof before the snow sets in.

The main problems are..

Water leaking though the roof. The roof doesn't look porous, but the "j" bolts that anchor the roof to the concrete beams let in water.
The main steel door isn't a very good fit and there is a gap at the top of about 1.5"
Various pieces of concrete have broken away from around the wooden side door frame exposing small gaps around the frame.
There has always been a problem with moisture in the garage as untreated steel will go rusty after a short time.


As a short term solution (I intend build an MNR in there next year) I was thinking of the following bodges....

50mm polystyrene sheeting on the roof with a couple of layers of EPDM pond liner on battened to the side of the garage. (would I need a polythene layer between roof and insulting board?)
Battens on the non adjoining side/end panels with 25mm polystyrene board between them and a polythene layer over this. Ply or chipboard over the entire surface with a couple of coats of emulsion.
Expanding foam in the small gaps between the wooden door frame and the concrete panel.
The steel door is a tricky one as either side of it there is a sprung mechanism. I was thinking of a layer of polythene over the inside of the door with a false wall against it. Opening the door isn't an issue until I have built the car.

Is there anymore options (preferable low cost!) apart from knocking the thing down!?!?!

Thanks for reading!

[Edited on 26/11/13 by prawnabie]

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joneh

posted on 26/11/13 at 08:20 PM Reply With Quote
Personally I'd raise the steel door and get a rubber strip for bottom, about £20 from tool station.

I'd mix up some concrete for the gaps in concrete, then when dry seal around with a good silicone.

For the leaks, either bodge with silicone, or see if you can get some flash band stuff over each bolt, or replace the roof. Inside, insulate with sheets or rockwool.

Edit - should mention this is the locost option and make sure you ease the spring tension if you move the garage door!!!

[Edited on 26/11/13 by joneh]

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coozer

posted on 26/11/13 at 08:32 PM Reply With Quote
Fibreglass the roof, you can get kits from EastCoastfibreglass.com

http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/

Theres plenty on utube telling you how to do it.



If you want to splash out get a sectional insulated panel door. Mine is sealed all the way round and keeps all the draughts out.





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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chaddy44

posted on 26/11/13 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
wickes fiberglass brush on roof repair works a treat
5 litre tub can even paint on when wet :-)
its under £20 a tin

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jossey

posted on 27/11/13 at 08:12 AM Reply With Quote
I would replace the roof with timber n waterproof ply. Then use either fibreglass or roof felt.

Have it sloping slightly.





Thanks



David Johnson

Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.

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b14wrc

posted on 12/12/13 at 12:22 PM Reply With Quote
Hi There,

It might be a bit further than you want to go with it, but this s what i did with mine:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=153385


http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=156250


http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=156800

Rob





20vt powered rear engined locost

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