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Author: Subject: Intake temperature vs power
tegwin

posted on 19/12/13 at 12:21 PM Reply With Quote
Intake temperature vs power

Not posted in a while so Hi guys!!

Pondering at work how crucial input air temperature is to a normally aspirated engine.

Take my TVR for example, the intake is ducted from the very front of the car in a thin walled flexi pipe which runs inches from the enormous and very lengthy exhaust manifold thus gets quite warm...

Now I can appreciate that a stonking great V8 probably sucks through a lot of air so the air isn't in the pipe for too long to get really really hot but I would hazard a guess that by the time it reaches the throttle body that it must be a good 20+ degrees above ambient.


If I could somehow get the intake air to ambient would I see any noticeable change in performance?



As an aside I am pretty sure I need a bigger air filter on the front of the car, I can hear the engine "sucking" through which can't be good for flow!



[Edited on 19/12/13 by tegwin]





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bi22le

posted on 19/12/13 at 12:47 PM Reply With Quote
A bit non scientific but I feel my car seems to sound, feel and run crisp when I drive out on early morning blats. On the flip side I can often feel almost a lean AFR feeling when its a mega hot day.

The difference in intake air in this analogy must be 20deg or more.





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pewe

posted on 19/12/13 at 01:01 PM Reply With Quote
On my hairdressers there was a noticeable (but as yet unquantifiable) improvement in power by enclosing the air filter in an ali box open towards the ambient air flow.
This is because the s/c is hot side and was drawing hot air from around the exhaust.
Space only allowed a single thickness ali sheet but it surprised me there was such an improvement.
As for normally aspirated the same applies - see threads on MX5nutz where owners achieve more power by drawing air from the front of the car.
So subjectively the answer is yes - shield the air intake and pipework from hot air and you will notice an improvement.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe10

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Slimy38

posted on 19/12/13 at 01:27 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pewe
(but as yet unquantifiable)


It's that bit that makes it a challenge to prove. Most rolling roads are done with the bonnet open and a great big fan to keep things cool, so the temperature is fairly constant. If you close the bonnet and run 70mph air directly into the front of the car (IE a bit more real world) then the difference might be a bit more obvious.

As with others, I notice a bit more 'kick' with cold air than I do sat in traffic in the summer. Having said that, too cold and it goes the other way, my bike will even misfire and stall if the air is too cold.

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Oddified

posted on 19/12/13 at 01:42 PM Reply With Quote
I made an airbox over the regular sausage type filter and ducted it right to the front with an intake scoop. Whether it's the cooler air or a slight bit of pressure (i know that's been questioned on many forums as impossible....) going in i don't know but i do know it made a very very noticeable difference

As above, i also find it's not as 'sweet' when it's very cold/freezing though.

Ian

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SPYDER

posted on 19/12/13 at 02:01 PM Reply With Quote
We did a back-to-back test, bonnet on, bonnet off, on my mates Westy on the rollers and the difference was less than one hp.
Zetec engine, MBE ecu, Jenveys, lambda and air temp sensors, so the fuelling should have been correct for both runs and this was confirmed by the AFR plot.

We were surprised too.

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CNHSS1

posted on 19/12/13 at 02:15 PM Reply With Quote
I would have thought on your Tiv when running with 'the taps open' ;-) the volume of air consumed would struggle to be warmed by radiated heat from the flexi induction tubes. Its highly likely it will make more actual difference and more perceived difference, when going from steady state (idle, small throttle opening) in traffc to wide open throttle as the air has much greater time to be warmed and then when you boot it, the engine is seeing warmed air for a few seconds.
certainly this is true in sprinting/hillclimbing, where the cars sit idling in the paddock queue and then are flat out off the line. On the data logger date from my ecu, the induction charge temps are affected initially, but a 200yards into the run (at WOT) the air temps have dropped to a point where they aren't affecting power again.

id exh wrap the exhausts manifolds and downpipes, and use thermo barrier around the induction tubes at least, but a slight redesign would be best really in addition to the wrapping/thermo barrier imho





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skov

posted on 19/12/13 at 02:22 PM Reply With Quote
Air intake temperature does indeed make a difference. How much I'm not sure...
But if you look at the density of air vs temperature, air has about 7% more mass at zero degrees centigrade compared to 20 degrees centigrade.
Assuming your ECU compensates for it, that means you're also injecting 7% more fuel to keep the engine running at (or close to) stoimetric.
More fuel and more air = more power
Not sure if you'd see a 7% increase in power as my limited knowledge falls apart at that point...

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matt_gsxr

posted on 19/12/13 at 04:04 PM Reply With Quote
Scientific answer (if you want it).

At the temperatures we are talking about air behaves like an "ideal gas".

Therefore PV=nRT (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law)

Where P is the pressure, V is the volume, n is the number of Moles of gas, R is the ideal gas constant and T is the temperature in Kelvin.

So, given that P (air pressure), V (volume of gas sucked in) and R (Gas constant) are all constants in your system the amount of air (and hence oxygen) that you engine will draw in is related to n.

So working through the numbers
nT = PV/R

So if you increase T from 293K (about 20degC) to 313K(about 40degC) then the decrease in n is about 7%.

So assuming you have the same AFR at both temperatures, then you could get a 7% power increase. In reality it is probably lower because you get better fuel vaporisation when things are hot.

Matt

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britishtrident

posted on 19/12/13 at 08:36 PM Reply With Quote
It isn' just AFR. lower intake temp allows increased ignition advance, but on most engines the real gains are when the ambient temp is down to close to 0c. Best power is developed on freezing cold foggy morning, the moisture provides evaporative cooling and thefllashing off of water droplets to steam provides additional power.

You read the IAT sensor from OBDII on most tintops it is surprisingly high but as this helps achieving a higher exhaust gas temperature this helps emissions by getting the cat working.





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Dingz

posted on 20/12/13 at 12:14 AM Reply With Quote
There was a thread about this recently with a link to an American RR test of a Skyline with the air intake in various positions, suprisingly it made hardly any difference.





Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.

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MikeCapon

posted on 20/12/13 at 07:01 AM Reply With Quote
Some seat of the pants stuff on bike engines from racing experience. Highly tuned two strokes had to be jetted up in cold weather or they would seize at the end of the straight. Whether they were any quicker was hard to tell as the tyres at the time hated cold weather.

Riding in 24 hour races (750 four strokes) the difference in performance somewhere like Le Castellet (Paul Ricard where they used to hold the Bol d'Or) was very noticeable between early morning when it was cold and humid (around 0-5°) and mid afternoon (25+°). In the morning sessions the bike would easily pull an extra 300 rpm down the straight. When you've got a 1.8km straight it gets a bit boring so you had a load of time to check out the revs and ponder on such things....

Later on, again with bike engines but this time in sidecars running GSXR 1000 motors, we had a very clear indicator of what a decent cold air intake was worth. We were running prepared motors at the time (lightened, balanced, prepped heads, programmable ignition and injection) but our air intake was badly plumbed and leaking between the naca duct and the airbox. We eventually got the intake sorted on a Friday evening after a days testing and before Saturdays warm-up and qualifying.

In the warm up the bike was flying. And then before we could get a time it blew up. Dropped valve.

Our spare engine was a stock road bike motor which had never had the lid off. No choice so in it went. No set up, nothing. Again the bike flew but with a motor that should have been 15 brake down? Our times were the best we'd ever recorded at that particular circuit (Ledenon) but above all the bike was so much easier to ride. Super clean linear response made everything so much easier. Only at the very end of the straight did we see a very slight deficit to the tuned motors they other guys were running. Finished third and no one believed we were running a stock motor.....

The point of all that is that you may not see a huge power increase with a decent cold air intake but the motor (providing your set up is near enough) will be so much more pleasant to ride/drive you'll be quicker and safer and that is so much more important than a bhp number...





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Darek32

posted on 20/12/13 at 07:55 AM Reply With Quote
When i was going on excavator licence lesson and other sstuff I've learned that in cold air u have more oxygen for better mixed with gasoline.
That is why turbo engines have IC.
And I remember one day on 400 yards competition in my capitol some of tge guys splash with cold water front mounted inter cooler before racing.

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britishtrident

posted on 20/12/13 at 10:13 AM Reply With Quote
To. put some numbers on it I took some figures this morning. ambient temperature was 4 to 6c.

After start during initial running the IAT stayed within 10 degrees of ambient until the coolant temperature reached thermostat opening temperature 88c.
The IAT then increased seadily to. 49c. in stop start urban driving after parking for 10 minutes the temperature reached 55c and only dropped very slowly back to 51c on restart.


When using full throttle and high revs the IAT decreased but. at a much slower rate than might be anticipated.





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