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Author: Subject: Viento Pre IVA photos picture heavy
SteveWallace

posted on 29/3/14 at 05:08 PM Reply With Quote
Viento Pre IVA photos picture heavy

My IVA date has been set for next Friday so I thought that I would do the usual pre-IVA post to get the views of the collective on any obvious fail points. It needs a good polish but other that that, all I really need to do is to roughly align the headlights and bed the brakes in as best I can. I am slightly concerned about the radius test as applied to the exhaust clamps. I've adjusted them so the radius ball cannot get to them from the top but you can touch the one nearest to the cat from underneath. I'm hoping that it will count as underneath the car.






















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jacko

posted on 29/3/14 at 05:21 PM Reply With Quote
Very nice You should be proud of your self
The seat belts i may be wrong but don't they have to have a red coloured button ?
Jacko

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scrappy_7

posted on 29/3/14 at 05:41 PM Reply With Quote
Looks pretty good. Poss Radius on the bottom of dash & I wold put a small piece of pipe over the bolts that protrude out of the exhaust clamps for the test
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Andybarbet

posted on 29/3/14 at 05:43 PM Reply With Quote
Wow, really nice, hope my Velocity ends up looking this tidy.

Good luck with the IVA.





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Relph

posted on 29/3/14 at 05:50 PM Reply With Quote
Looking good Steve, have you got a date yet ?





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CosKev3

posted on 29/3/14 at 06:23 PM Reply With Quote
Looking good

I like the full size bucket seat's, how wide is it from your tunnel to outer chassis to get those in?

Ref your side repeaters, don't they need to be visible from the front at all?
I'm no IVA expert but can't remember seeing any fitted like yours before.

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SteveWallace

posted on 29/3/14 at 07:06 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the replies so far. Rather than do lots of quotes, I've listed my responses below:

I) Test date is AM Friday 4th April at Nottingham. I've spoken to them a couple of times about interpretation of the manual and they seem really helpful. I'm going to get there early so that I can bed the brakes in a bit more by driving round and round their car park.

ii) Good suggestion to put pipe on the exhaust clamp bolts but I guess that I need to find some with rounded ends, otherwise the pipe will just replace the bolts as the problem

iii) Even though it doesn't look like it in the photo's, the bottom edge of the dash has a larger radius than the 19mm required by IVA

iv) I had to put the side repeaters on the front wing as they can be no more than 2600mm from the front of the car. Viento's are too long to put them on the rear arches, which is what most people do. As I understand it, there is no requirement to see them from the front. The viewing angle has to be 5-60 degrees when looking from the rear so they are positioned to clear the rear arches by just enough.

v) The Titon harnesses are FIA legal and according to the IVA manual, that's good enough (besides which, I'm not putting a red sticker on my blue car )

vi) The dimension from the transmission tunnel to the side of the car is 49cm. Viento's are quite a bit wider than most 7's and even with that, the seats are a tight fit, with the seat base bolsters slightly squashed. The seats originally had adjustable backs, but the mechanisms got in the way so I had to remove them and fix the angle of the backs with a solid steel plate.

[Edited on 29/3/14 by SteveWallace]

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Slater

posted on 29/3/14 at 08:13 PM Reply With Quote
Radius on bottom of headlight bracket, might need some U trim on there. Nice and tidy looking build.





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davidimurray

posted on 29/3/14 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
Lovely build.

Only thoughts are base of the centre mirror and the nuts holding the front Indy extensions may need covering.





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MsD

posted on 29/3/14 at 08:54 PM Reply With Quote
Hopefully there will be two passes next week- mines on Thursday!

Couple of points-

Locking nut/ base of rear view mirror.

Might be worth removing the rear plate holder. Just one less thing to worry about!

The rear of the seatbelt top mounts. There is a cover but does it go far enough over?

The top of the suspension coil is outside the exemption zone- the edge of the coil is probably too sharp.

As mentioned the nut holding the front indicators on.

Does the gear knob have any sharp edges. Hard to tell in the pic.

Hope that helps! Mark.

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snapper

posted on 30/3/14 at 07:09 AM Reply With Quote
I'll be interested to see if the side repeaters pass as if your positioned at a T junction with wheels turned right you won't see them
We have fitted them in the headlight bowl and passed





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mccsp

posted on 30/3/14 at 07:51 AM Reply With Quote
Hi,

not sure what has changed since sva but I have my side repeaters on the side of the scuttle and had no issues.

I don't suppose you know what RAL code the blue is. I have a velocity in thesame colour but can't remember the code?

good luck for iva





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CosKev3

posted on 30/3/14 at 10:16 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mccsp
not sure what has changed since sva but I have my side repeaters on the side of the scuttle and had no issues.



They were ok there for SVA, but has changed for IVA so they fail on the scuttle now.

quote:
Originally posted by SteveWallace

iv) I had to put the side repeaters on the front wing as they can be no more than 2600mm from the front of the car. Viento's are too long to put them on the rear arches, which is what most people do. As I understand it, there is no requirement to see them from the front. The viewing angle has to be 5-60 degrees when looking from the rear so they are positioned to clear the rear arches by just enough.

vi) The dimension from the transmission tunnel to the side of the car is 49cm. Viento's are quite a bit wider than most 7's and even with that, the seats are a tight fit, with the seat base bolsters slightly squashed. The seats originally had adjustable backs, but the mechanisms got in the way so I had to remove them and fix the angle of the backs with a solid steel plate.

[Edited on 29/3/14 by SteveWallace]


ah that's why they fit,nice wide cockpit!

Ref tge side repeaters, do they only view with the front wheels straight if they are fitted to front wings?

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40inches

posted on 30/3/14 at 10:35 AM Reply With Quote
That's a nice build
Have you panelled under the dash? They go under there with the sphere, I used corrugated plastic sheet from the bottom of a washing machine.
The collar on the top of the shock springs needs covering.
I bought a couple of very cheap CV joint covers and cut the tops off.
Description
Description







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The Black Flash

posted on 30/3/14 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Looking good

I like the full size bucket seat's, how wide is it from your tunnel to outer chassis to get those in?

Ref your side repeaters, don't they need to be visible from the front at all?
I'm no IVA expert but can't remember seeing any fitted like yours before.


quote:
Originally posted by snapper
I'll be interested to see if the side repeaters pass as if your positioned at a T junction with wheels turned right you won't see them
We have fitted them in the headlight bowl and passed


Re: the side repeaters, they are fine on the back of the front arches there. I confirmed this with VOSA's policy department directly and posted the email up here somewhere, and it was fine at the test. They only test with the wheels straight ahead, not on lock.

Visibility is to the side and back, no requirement to be visible at the front. They're not for pulling out of junctions as you might think, but instead more if a car is alongside you on the motorway and you are indicating to pull out. Diagram is in the IVA manual.

Also worth noting that this only applies to side repeaters. You can't put front indicators on the front of the arch, because...well, because they say so, although it's completely inconsistent. I found out the hard way...

Nice looking build BTW. Really like the boot cover.

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SteveWallace

posted on 30/3/14 at 01:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mccsp
Hi,

I don't suppose you know what RAL code the blue is. I have a velocity in thesame colour but can't remember the code?



The RAL code is 5022.

Comments on other comments:

I) My understanding is that they check the side repeaters with the front wheels straight ahead.

ii) I've covered the underside of the dash on the passenger side, but not on the drivers side as the shape was too awkward to make it fit well. Instead I've put edge trim around, but I should go back and check to see if anything else can be touched by the ball

iii) Good point about the top spring caps. I had rotated them so that the slot was facing inward, but forgot about the top edge of them. I'll have a look and see what I can do in situ as I don't want to have to take the springs off to slide something on. I'm thinking edge trim and super glue.

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AvonJas

posted on 30/3/14 at 03:35 PM Reply With Quote
If there are any use , I have the top spring covers that 40inches was on about , he passed his onto me (hi Dave), I'm sure he won't
mind if you can use them. Can't quite tell in photo but are you using a brake bias bar , if so do you have a warning sign.
Tidy looking car BTW.

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SteveWallace

posted on 30/3/14 at 06:01 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by AvonJas
If there are any use , I have the top spring covers that 40inches was on about , he passed his onto me (hi Dave), I'm sure he won't
mind if you can use them. Can't quite tell in photo but are you using a brake bias bar , if so do you have a warning sign.
Tidy looking car BTW.


Thanks for the offer. I'll take you up on that. If you send me a U2U I'll come across and get them. I live just off J26 so not too far away.

I do have a brake bias bar and I've put a sticker on the bulkhead

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daveb666

posted on 2/4/14 at 09:27 AM Reply With Quote
Does that mean you're using a pedal box Steve? If so is the bar locked into place with a split pin/wire?

I failed because, although I used nylocs that was not deemed good enough.

Take plenty of edge trim etc with you and loads of tools; most test centres will let you tweak things if needed.

[Edited on 2/4/14 by daveb666]





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SteveWallace

posted on 2/4/14 at 10:26 AM Reply With Quote
Yes, I am using a bias bar. The locking method that they'll accept is an interesting one because I thought that I was going to have to use a split pin or locking wire myself. However, I spoke to the testers at Nottingham and they said that they would accept two nuts on each end of the bar, locked together with spanners. I've gone down that route with one being a nyloc and the other a normal nut, so I guess that I'll find out on Friday.

It would be the sensible approach as its just as unlikely to come undone on its own as a lock wire (otherwise you would have to lock wire all of your suspension bolts), and its equally impossible to undo without tools.

If they have changed their mind and that's the only thing that I fail on then I'll still be a happy bunny.

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daveb666

posted on 2/4/14 at 10:35 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveWallace
It would be the sensible approach as its just as unlikely to come undone on its own as a lock wire (otherwise you would have to lock wire all of your suspension bolts), and its equally impossible to undo without tools.


Totally agree but it was one of the things that the Manchester test centre are keen on apparently. Just thought I'd mention it





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40inches

posted on 2/4/14 at 11:39 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveWallace
Yes, I am using a bias bar. The locking method that they'll accept is an interesting one because I thought that I was going to have to use a split pin or locking wire myself. However, I spoke to the testers at Nottingham and they said that they would accept two nuts on each end of the bar, locked together with spanners. I've gone down that route with one being a nyloc and the other a normal nut, so I guess that I'll find out on Friday.

It would be the sensible approach as its just as unlikely to come undone on its own as a lock wire (otherwise you would have to lock wire all of your suspension bolts), and its equally impossible to undo without tools.

If they have changed their mind and that's the only thing that I fail on then I'll still be a happy bunny.

If that's the only thing that you fail on it will cost you £90 to find out.
If the Nottingham inspectors say that a double nut is OK, then I would take their word for it. However it would take less than 30mins to drill two nuts and lock wire them together






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daveb666

posted on 2/4/14 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
I actually ended up drilling through a nyloc and the bias bar and putting a split-pin in; quickest and easiest way of doing it without upsetting the bias adjust.





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adithorp

posted on 2/4/14 at 04:01 PM Reply With Quote
Thats what I did at SVA but with roll-pins. I though the "perminently fixed" had gone with IVA and temporary fixes were OK with a "don't adjust or you'll kill yourself" label.
I removed both pins and nuts after and now have a wire horse shoe shaped wire that goes from one drilling, through a hole in the padal and into the other end. It has kinks to stop it falling right through the bars holes and another to locate it on the padal. It's firm and holds the bar from rotating but with a bit of springing, easy to remove/replace for adjustment.

OP, looks a nice built and nothing jumps out at me.





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The Black Flash

posted on 2/4/14 at 09:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Thats what I did at SVA but with roll-pins. I though the "perminently fixed" had gone with IVA and temporary fixes were OK with a "don't adjust or you'll kill yourself" label.
I removed both pins and nuts after and now have a wire horse shoe shaped wire that goes from one drilling, through a hole in the padal and into the other end. It has kinks to stop it falling right through the bars holes and another to locate it on the padal. It's firm and holds the bar from rotating but with a bit of springing, easy to remove/replace for adjustment.

OP, looks a nice built and nothing jumps out at me.


The manual's a bit vague; but it states lockwiring as an example so that's what I did.

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