The alternator is fixed now. I have spent the afternoon stripping the ecu of all wires from the loom to get back to basics. I am fitting a new power
supply from the battery, both being switched and un-switched. Relays work on both. I have fitted a new 12gang fuse box and wired it in for both
switched and un-switched.The wiring for the engine and fuel pump will be totally separate from the MG loom this way. So far the LED is not doing what
it should, but I may have removed a pats wire doing it. Will it harm having the sensors connected? I can always cut the ecu plug wires and rejoin
them.
Finally got her fired up
Only for a short blast as no coolant plumbed in yet. Get that sorted then I can test it properly. Still need to finish off and tidy up the wiring but
at least it works. This threads been a great help.
The idle seems high, not sure if that's due to no clutch position switch fitted?
It was a very good feeling... and a ray of hope for all other electrical novices
Need to get it running with coolant plumbed in and try to get my obd dongle linked up to the ecu / phone properly to check for any issues but
I'm just chuffed I'm off the starting blocks!
One of the load switches needs earthing, I think it’s the clutch switch but I would have to check. Also every time you disconnect the memory from ecu
it has to re learn fuel trims and bits and does give a height idle for a minuet or two.
quote:Originally posted by Pigsy
The alternator is fixed now. I have spent the afternoon stripping the ecu of all wires from the loom to get back to basics. I am fitting a new power
supply from the battery, both being switched and un-switched. Relays work on both. I have fitted a new 12gang fuse box and wired it in for both
switched and un-switched.The wiring for the engine and fuel pump will be totally separate from the MG loom this way. So far the LED is not doing what
it should, but I may have removed a pats wire doing it. Will it harm having the sensors connected? I can always cut the ecu plug wires and rejoin
them.
One of the load switches needs earthing, I think it’s the clutch switch but I would have to check. Also every time you disconnect the memory from ecu
it has to re learn fuel trims and bits and does give a height idle for a minuet or two.
Do you simply leave the switch out and earth the wire?
I've had a look at the ford wiring diagram and it looks like the clutch switch is normally open, closed when clutch is depressed. Is it
therefore a good idea to fit the switch or would it serve no purpose?
I guess I could see how it goes without it and take it from there.
Still haven't been able to get my OBD dongle to connect to the engine. I have all pins connected as per your diagram but I don't currently
have pin 7 on the port connected. It looks like you have this connected to ecu 13 shared with OBD pin 13. Does that sound right? I've checked my
dongle on my daily driver and it works fine so I can only assume I've done something wrong with my wiring.
Thanks
quote:Originally posted by FamilyGuy
I've had a look at the ford wiring diagram and it looks like the clutch switch is normally open, closed when clutch is depressed. Is it
therefore a good idea to fit the switch or would it serve no purpose?
I guess I could see how it goes without it and take it from there.
I will have a look but there is one load switch that is normally open.
quote:Originally posted by FamilyGuy
Still haven't been able to get my OBD dongle to connect to the engine. I have all pins connected as per your diagram but I don't currently
have pin 7 on the port connected. It looks like you have this connected to ecu 13 shared with OBD pin 13. Does that sound right? I've checked my
dongle on my daily driver and it works fine so I can only assume I've done something wrong with my wiring.
Thanks
The diagram I am sure is correct and the legend wrong. I am sure the engine does not use pin 7.
Again depending how hot and bothered i am after work and what jobs her indoors has got for me to. I will have a look.
Hi. I have wired in the key and circular ring with its 4 wires as per your diagram you kindly sent. I have a spare uncut loom plug which I have fitted
to the ecu away from the car. So I have the key setup fitted to the plug with the pats led and all pats connections as per your diagram. No other
connections apart from power supply to 55KAM and the earths (not common brown) connected. There is a fast flashing of the led. (It’s not a flashing
type of led.) When I switch on 12v to pin 71 via a 30amp relay it stops momentarily and then flashes again at the same rapid speed.
Could the key and transponder be faulty?
Could the ECU be faulty?
Is it something I have missed in the wiring?
If you think that you have the answer please just say.
Pigsy
You don't say if your powering up the ecu at the same time.
Black top and silver top transceivers work on different frequencies and are not interchangeable.
I sent you a message that looks like you have not read offering to have a quick look over your loom and test the key is matched to your ecu.
Unfortunately I don't have time to build you a one off loom.
No charge, you just need to sort postage both ways
I have this wrong somewhere. With the 12v supply to ecu pin 55KAM already live, the way to power up the ecu is to switch on 12v to pin 71 via a 30amp
relay. Is this right?
Please don’t worry if you are too busy to look over my loom Warren. I am making a silly mistake somewhere, but I will get there.
Thanks big-wasa. I have actually got 97 switched as well. Just forgot to write it down (a lot of juggling of time at the moment).
I have a Ford Focus ST170 ECU, key and key sender from 2002 to match the engine on the way from a car with absolutely no electrical faults. Its the
same year as my engine. It is in case I was sold a mismatched key setup and ecu. I wish I had just bought a donor car to begin with.
