b3nny
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| posted on 12/8/14 at 08:10 AM |
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rear drive shaft removal
I'm looking to remove my passenger side drive shaft today but it's a task I haven't tackled before but the idea of me buying a lot
car was to tackle as Mich as I can myself.
Could anybody give me a quick description of what to remove in what order is there any special tools needed? I have a very good idea of what to do but
just haven't done it before, I be live the joint is shot as it's making a noise and after I reversed into my space I had light smoke
coming out from behind the wheel and it had a smell to it, plus all the grease left around the wheel and wishbone lol. I'm hoping just maybe
when I get it out I may be lucky enough to just 're pack and replace the boot but if it needs a new shaft then so be it.
It's a Sierra rear end with the bolt on fitting rather than push in.
Thanks.
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mookaloid
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| posted on 12/8/14 at 08:59 AM |
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Smoke coming out from behind a wheel suggests that something is getting hot. This is normally associated with binding brakes not a drive shaft
joint.
I would check that all is ok with the brake caliper first.
What sort of noise is it making?
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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b3nny
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| posted on 12/8/14 at 09:07 AM |
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Sounds dry and a squeak than gets louder as the wheel rotates, the boot has deffinatly split though as there is grease all over the inner wheel and
lower wishbone.
I was thinking maybe the smoke was coming from the grease on a hot drum?
[Edited on 12/8/14 by b3nny]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 12/8/14 at 09:44 AM |
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You don't really need to take the driveshaft off the car only separate the drive flange/hub from the CV joint. Undo the Big nut in the centre
and unbolt the suspension at the outer bushes.
If the CV joint is OK ie not making a loud clack-clack-clack-clack noise when the car is driven, you can either use a cone or proper pneumatic
expander to fit a stretch boot/gaitor. The cone stretcher tools are very cheap to buy but frustratingly difficult to use and the peumatic stretcher
is quite expensive so not really an option for a one off job. [b} Alternatively you can pull/knock the CV joint off the shaft (easier with the
correct puller tool which cost about £28 off ebay) ) and fit a gaitor without having to use a cone/stretcher.
If you have any suspicions about the CV joint fit a new one.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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adithorp
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| posted on 12/8/14 at 09:45 AM |
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Sounds like more than one issue. Unless you've been driving very hard the drums shouldn't be hot enough to make a bitof grease smoke and a
duff joint won't get hot either. You need to check the brakes for binding and the wheel bearing (though bearings rarely get hot).
If the joint is dry and lost grease then it will need replacing anyway. Unbolt 6 bolts each end, remove shaft, remove circlip holding joint to shaft
and knock joint off shaft, replace boot, fit new joint, replace shaft.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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mcerd1
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| posted on 12/8/14 at 09:54 AM |
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bolt-on shafts with drums ? ?
normally a bolt-on rear end would have disc brakes....
with bolt-on shafts (aka lobro's) all you need to do is unbolt the 6 torx head bolts at each end to get the driveshaft out - no need to undo
the big nut on the end of the sub axle and upset the wheel bearings 
you'll need a T40 torx bit if they are the original ford bolts and the are a PITA if they aren't brand new - the rusty ones on my donors
killed 4 decent quality torx bits 
(Halfords pro ones that got swapped on warranty, but still a PITA)
if you lucky someone will have swapped these for normal allen key headed bolts already
if not buy yourself some new ones for rebuilding it - they are M8x50 'socket cap heads', grade 12.9
once the bolts are out the CV's come apart like so:
new boots often come attached to part G above (much easier to fit ) so only the original ford ones are really suitable for the universal / stretch
CV boots
when you reassemble make sure the grove around the CV joints is nearest the ends of the shaft - this is important to shop them wearing out prematurely
and make sure you use the 3 double lock washer things at each end (next to G on the diagram above) and torque up these bolts properly as they have a
habit of coming loose otherwise...
(if you don't have these special washers then at the very least you should use plenty of Loctite or maybe something like nordlock washers - so
not use spring washers as they are crap!)
[Edited on 12/8/2014 by mcerd1]
[Edited on 12/8/2014 by mcerd1]
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b3nny
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| posted on 13/8/14 at 08:45 AM |
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This is going to sound daft but should I be able to clearly see the bolts holding the drive shaft on at the hub end? I had a quick look last night and
the shaft seems to disappear into a sleeve at the hub end and I could see any bolts? Are they inside the sleeve? On the diff end I can clearly see the
Allan bolts attchibg to the diff, is it possible I have some kind of hybrid? As somebody mentioned the bolt in drive shaft is normally on a disc set
up.
This is my hub side
With the push in type shaft is there any bolts in the same pattern at the diff end just incase I'm getting confused?
I'm hoping to get to work this evening. P
[Edited on 13/8/14 by b3nny]
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adithorp
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| posted on 13/8/14 at 09:38 AM |
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Your picture is the outer end of a push-in shaft. If your inner end has the 6 bolts then you've got a hybrid shaft that the builder has made up
to mate a bolt on diff to drum type hubs.
You should be able to get it out without dismanteling the complete hub. Unbolt the inner end 6 bolts, remove the big not on the outer end (very tight
and left-hand thread on left side) Then manouver shaft out past diff (providing you have enough room). It might take a knock or two to move the shaft
in the hub.
Once it's out follow BT's instructions for replacing the boot/joint.
[Edited on 13/8/14 by adithorp]
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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adithorp
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| posted on 13/8/14 at 09:51 AM |
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Actually that doesn't look like a Sierra outer joint. They have the tin-can type boot kit and that doesn't look like that, though the
picture is a bit unclear.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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mcerd1
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| posted on 13/8/14 at 10:05 AM |
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some folk make up hybrid shafts so that they can use diffs with bolt-on flanges without the need for changing the drum brakes
this is useful as the ford LSD's cannot use push-in driveshaft's
if you didn't have the ford LSD then there would be no reason to use the bolt-on diff flanges (on open diffs they can just be removed and the
push-in shafts used in their place)
only problem with the hybrid shafts is that they tend to wear out the CV joints a bit faster due to the different designs at each end no balancing
each other out - this shouldn't really be a problem with the limited mileages that most of these cars do though 
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b3nny
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| posted on 13/8/14 at 10:30 AM |
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Well it doesn't sound to hard to get out from now if it is a hybrid, would I need to undo any suspension for movment or once UN bolted at the
diff end and the hub it should slide past the diff?
Once out I'll get a picture of what I have and hopefully you guys can tell me what I need.
I assume the cv joint at the hub end will all come out with the shaft?
I'm probably making a mountain out of a mole hill and once I get cracking it will all come together. These home.builds are certinatly a huge
learning curve lol.
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adithorp
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| posted on 13/8/14 at 12:30 PM |
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It might come past the diffand it might not depending on the chassis around the diff.
Try it and see. If not then you'llhave to remove the drum, probablythe shoes, and then the 4 bolts holding the back-plate and bearing carrier.
Then the shaft should come out through the upright. Be sure to slacken the big centre nut first.
How simple the joint/boot are to replace will depend on whether it'sthe tin-can type or not.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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b3nny
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| posted on 13/8/14 at 04:38 PM |
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This is what I have at the diff side of my shaft (not my pic but same as) does this confirm a hybrid shaft or am I confused and this is actually a
push type?
[Edited on 13/8/14 by b3nny]
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b3nny
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| posted on 13/8/14 at 05:20 PM |
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Well it's a poor state of affairs, just been under the car and the suspension bracket has snapped off its plate without me knowing, which in
turn looks like it has put pressure on the cv joint and this is where the grease has come from the boot is fine.
The grease looks like copper grease and it looks to be coming from in between the hub and the cv, unfortunately it's going to have to be a
garage job as I don't have a welder or the skills to weld. Bummer!
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mcerd1
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| posted on 14/8/14 at 08:00 AM |
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sounds like you've got a few issues to sort out
the pic above is definitely a bolt-on / lobro CV and your earlier pic of the wheel end is definitely a push-in / tripode CV - so yes you do have
hybrid driveshaft's
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