John P
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 12:14 PM |
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Plastering / Dry-lining an En-suite. Advice Please.
We’re having a very small extension built part of which will become an en-suite.
The builder’s quote was on the basis that the internal walls would all be dot & dab plasterboard and then skimmed.
In the en-suite however the corner shower will be against one of the exterior walls (block construction) and a stud partition. The overall size of
the en-suite is only 1.7 metres x 2.0 metres.
I’m a little concerned about the long-term risk of damp getting into the plasterboard and wondered if I should ask him to plaster (hardwall?) the
solid walls and use Aquapanel on the stud partition. Alternatively I suppose I could ask him to use moisture resistant plasterboard.
Eventually I will be fully tiling the walls.
Any advice / suggestions?
John.
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HowardB
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 12:26 PM |
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I have aquapanel over plasterboard,,. I have also used the foam sticky stuff for putting the boards up as it doesn't transfer the damp in the
same way as the dot and dab seems to.. in my experience anyway 
hth
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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rgrs
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 12:35 PM |
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Dot and dab aquapanel and mechanically fix as well.
Read the manufacturers specification for fixing where over tiling. Don't underestimate the weight and forces on fixings.
When its plastered get him to skim just past the start of the tiling but not the whole aquapanel.
All other plasterboard used should be moisture resistant (green) the cost difference at this point is minimal and prevents longer term issues
especially in high moisture content areas.
In other areas if you are tiling over plaster, instead of a smooth troweled finish get him to sponge finish it, you will get far better adhesion when
tiling.
Roger
[Edited on 9/25/2014 by rgrs]
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joneh
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 02:25 PM |
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You can also get a thin plastic lip which connects around the shower tray, goes on top of the plaster board and under the tiles. Stops any risk from
damp climbing.
Jon
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dhutch
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 04:32 PM |
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I would put aqua/cement board up in the shower corner, in place of plaster board, stuck with adhesive but then drilled through and screw/rawlplug.
Also note 'dot and dab' should have a continuous bead around all edges and holes for fitting as will as the dots, to get your airtightness
under control and so you dont have dirt/dust marks around everything.
Or cement render which is what I would spec for the whole house if I was ever building my own, but that takes longer to dry, and most
plasters/builders apparently dont like doing it anymore.
Daniel
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 25/9/14 at 05:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by joneh
You can also get a thin plastic lip which connects around the shower tray, goes on top of the plaster board and under the tiles. Stops any risk from
damp climbing.
Jon
Or better still get a shower tray with upstands.....
I use them in my own places, and if I fit them for anybody else. A little more expensive, and not usually kept by the local merchants, but worth the
extra hassle. Of course, most bathroom fitters reckon their showers will never leak. Righty ho.
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coozer
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| posted on 27/9/14 at 08:29 AM |
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I tiled right right down to floor before setting the shower tray, also set the tray on a 5mm bed of morter. This means if there's any leaks I
can see this in the morter, been a good few years when I did it and so far using it everyday its dry as a bone.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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inkafone
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| posted on 27/9/14 at 11:43 AM |
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I used "no more ply" 12mm boards straight onto battens (screwed & glued) with insulation on an exterior wall.
[Edited on 27/9/14 by inkafone]
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