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Author: Subject: Getting started with chassis
Wenney

posted on 2/10/14 at 06:52 AM Reply With Quote
Getting started with chassis

Hi guys I have just decided to start a haynes roadster build after months of thought. Now it's time to order the box section for the chassis could any of you please tell me how much I will need and the best place to order it I'm in the Midlands so local would be good. Also would it be best to go with a pinto engine or a zeetec as they are newer degin and maybe easyer to get hold of.
Would be greatfull for any advice you can give me as I'm on a tight budget and mistakes cost money. Thanks guys

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Barkalarr
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Building: Caterham R300, Caterham Roadsport,Indy R1,Indy Zet

posted on 2/10/14 at 07:01 AM Reply With Quote
If you want a pinto I've got a 205 EFI with a clutch, alternator and starter motor - Its on a pallett so easy to ship to you.
I can even throw in some engine mounts.

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Slimy38

posted on 2/10/14 at 08:03 AM Reply With Quote
Camp Steel in Birmingham is where I went. I think I got four lengths of 25mm and 1 of 20mm, but I also know I've run out of 25mm and need some more so it's probably not a good idea to follow in my footsteps! There's a few cutting lists on the internet that would be a safer bet.
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wilkingj

posted on 2/10/14 at 08:21 AM Reply With Quote
Wasn't there someone who did Roadster chassis packs all laser cut and with the correct angles already done?
ISTR it was Talon or Talon Motorsport.

I suppose it depends on how much you want to spend, and how much you want / can do yourself.

Just my 2d's worth

Geoff







1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk

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mcerd1

posted on 2/10/14 at 09:09 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Wenney
....Also would it be best to go with a pinto engine or a zeetec as they are newer degin and maybe easyer to get hold of.


pinto's all have the advantage of being pre-Aug 95 - that means no CAT for emissions at the IVA, but only the very early silvertop zetec's are pre-Aug 95 and they are very simple engines to work on
but as much as I like pinto's they are not that powerful and cost a fair bit to tune - even an old 1800 silvertop zetec with the 130ps cams (RS1800 fiesta etc..) is significantly more powerful out of the box than a 2.0 pinto.
zetec's are a little more complex to install and need a bit more work to fit the RWD layout


but the main issue is not finding pinto's or zetec's - its finding a rwd gearbox and running gear to suit as sierra's and Granada's are getting much, much harder to find these days

one of the simplest and best alternatives seems to be the MX5's - with a few mods to the design you can use the engine, box and running gear
quite a few people have gone this way - have a search through the old threads for details...

[Edited on 2/10/2014 by mcerd1]

[Edited on 2/10/2014 by mcerd1]





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Slimy38

posted on 2/10/14 at 10:31 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
Wasn't there someone who did Roadster chassis packs all laser cut and with the correct angles already done?
ISTR it was Talon or Talon Motorsport.

I suppose it depends on how much you want to spend, and how much you want / can do yourself.

Just my 2d's worth

Geoff




The Talon kits are about four times the cost of the raw metal, and while it's really a bit of a bargain compared to the labour required to put the parts together, it's still a lot of money for those of us with limited funds.

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Wenney

posted on 2/10/14 at 06:55 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks guy for the info I think with my budget I may have to cut the steel box my self as time is not an issue as for the engine I'm still not sure which way to go both the pinto and the zeetec both seem to have good points and bad. Could anyone tell me if I leave the decision till later in the build will it only be the engine mounting points that would be in a different place or will anything have to be changed on the chassis.
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robertst

posted on 2/10/14 at 07:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Wenney
Thanks guy for the info I think with my budget I may have to cut the steel box my self as time is not an issue as for the engine I'm still not sure which way to go both the pinto and the zeetec both seem to have good points and bad. Could anyone tell me if I leave the decision till later in the build will it only be the engine mounting points that would be in a different place or will anything have to be changed on the chassis.


Hi Wenney and welcome to the mad house congratulations on your decision to build a locost. Metaphorically speaking you're in base camp at the everest. You have a loooong way up and many many moments of sheer pain, exhaustion and frustration, but also incredible joy when you see things taking shape and finally working, which compensates the bad moments in spades. However it still pays greatly to plan the entire build before starting. I sort of did and now i regret every single day not having chosen IRS and having decided on DeDion. However i chose the pinto beacuse it's cheap as chips, and you dont need a new adapted bellhousing as you would need with a zetec to convert it to RWD, and it's incredibly simple to work on and for a relatively little outlay (some 200 quid) you can give it bike carbs, a proper exhaust and an electronic ignition system (i.e. megajolt) which should give it a noticeable oomph. However, they are heavy, not very revvy engines and in my opinion have way too much torque for a seven-type car. I didnt mind this for my build becuase i wanted my car to be as "mechanical" and "old-school" as possible, if you get what i mean.

As for the amount of steel box, iirc i got about 25metres of 25x25mm box section and about 10 m of 19X19mm for parts of the chassis, plus some round seamless tube for the rollbar and stays and other triangulation for the chassis. i really dont remember if it was slightly less, but i ended up short of box section.

Also, whichever engine you decide will not only affect where you put your engine mounts but also where and which ancilliaries you will need to fit, so, again its best to decide this before building.

All the best of luck to you and keep us posted!





Tom

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Talon Motorsport

posted on 3/10/14 at 12:28 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
Wasn't there someone who did Roadster chassis packs all laser cut and with the correct angles already done?
ISTR it was Talon or Talon Motorsport.

I suppose it depends on how much you want to spend, and how much you want / can do yourself.

Just my 2d's worth

Geoff




The Talon kits are about four times the cost of the raw metal, and while it's really a bit of a bargain compared to the labour required to put the parts together, it's still a lot of money for those of us with limited funds.



You'll need 7x 6mtr lengths 25x25 1.5mm or 2mm ERW
2x 6mtr lenghts 20x20 1.5mm ERW
and for the rear tub/boot 1x 6mtr length of either 22mm or 25mm 1.6 ERW
top tip you can ask most plumbers to bend 22mm tube!

As for my kits costing 4x as much as the raw materials that is not true I've had a flat pack on ebay for £275 for the past 3 weeks and there is £110 worth of materials plus the delivery, £34 worth of suspension brackets and the basic chassis plates worth £30 are included as well.

haynes roadster CHASSIS FLAT PACK build your own sports car locost 7 kitcar

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Slimy38

posted on 3/10/14 at 01:20 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Talon Motorsport

As for my kits costing 4x as much as the raw materials that is not true I've had a flat pack on ebay for £275 for the past 3 weeks and there is £110 worth of materials plus the delivery, £34 worth of suspension brackets and the basic chassis plates worth £30 are included as well.

haynes roadster CHASSIS FLAT PACK build your own sports car locost 7 kitcar


Apologies, I was using that auction as a guide but I didn't realise the chassis plates and suspension brackets are in there as well. Although I had taken the BIN price as the guide, hence the 4x compared to what I had to buy.

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coozer

posted on 3/10/14 at 03:52 PM Reply With Quote
Go with a zetec, they have the same bolt up to a gearbox as a pinto, are very reliable, make a lot of power with bike carbs and are cheap as...

My st170 engine made 166 bhp with zxr9 carbs and that was before I went to injection, and there was lot more to come as the carbs weren't jetted properly!





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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Wenney

posted on 3/10/14 at 04:47 PM Reply With Quote
Hi thanks guys it nice to hear all your views its a great help saying that I still stuck on which engine To go for would I be right I saying that the zeetec pre 95 will need a different bell housing and fly wheel if so what would it be off. This decision is the only thing holding me up , by the way I'm thinking of using the car for track days so should this make to which of the two power units I get
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