Craig81
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posted on 12/12/04 at 11:47 AM |
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f#*@king Paint.
Hi all,
After only 300miles in my locost, the 2pack paint on the rear arches has stone chipped to buggery!!! They are going to have to be respayed before the
spring as they look horrible.
Does anybody know if i can get a type of protective film to cover the paint once its respayed!!!
Cheers
craig
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I love speed :-P
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posted on 12/12/04 at 03:10 PM |
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i think u can use something called rotor tape? anyway its used on helicopter blades to stop them chipping
[Edited on 12/12/2004 by I love speed :-P]
Don't Steal
The Government doesn’t like the competition
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Wadders
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posted on 12/12/04 at 03:31 PM |
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Best to fit arch protectors, ally or carbon. before fitting them i smashed holes in both rear arches with stones thrown up from the front tyres. Also
fitted clear flaps to the bottom of the front cycle wings which made a huge difference.
MK do carbon look raer arch savers.
Originally posted by Craig81
Hi all,
After only 300miles in my locost, the 2pack paint on the rear arches has stone chipped to buggery!!! They are going to have to be respayed before the
spring as they look horrible.
Does anybody know if i can get a type of protective film to cover the paint once its respayed!!!
Cheers
craig
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Northy
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posted on 12/12/04 at 04:55 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Wadders
Also fitted clear flaps to the bottom of the front cycle wings which made a huge difference.
Wadders, where did you get clear mub flaps? Or did you craft them from something?
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing!
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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Viper
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posted on 12/12/04 at 06:41 PM |
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There is a product its called Armourfend, take a look at the front end of most TVR's....
Tim
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DaveFJ
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posted on 14/12/04 at 12:26 PM |
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I would deffinately NOT recommend helicopter blade tape. I have extensive experiance of this stuff (as a former helicopter engineer). It will look...
Ok when it first goes on but after a couple of weeks it will look like total shit, it will go opaque and start to yellow. also it is almost impossible
to get all the tiny air bubbles out. Abolute bastard to remove as well
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Mix
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posted on 14/12/04 at 02:35 PM |
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I have to dissagree Protofj. Blade tape nowadays does not discolour and air bubbles can be easily avoided if applied correctly. You are however
perfectly correct in saying it sticks well.
It is also virtually impervious to minor impacts.
Minor drawback is the thickness, it's about 0.7mm thick, the stuff Lotus use is about half that. I'm guessing that's probably the
same stufff Viper was refering to.
Mick
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DaveFJ
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posted on 14/12/04 at 02:39 PM |
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Mybe you have access to some 'new' stuff that that is not available to the military then ?
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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Mix
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posted on 14/12/04 at 02:49 PM |
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It was a bit of an 'eye opener' when I left the forces. The civil industry , (which up until then I had considered to be lagging behind)
was actually streets ahead in a lot of aspects.
Mick
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stephen_gusterson
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posted on 14/12/04 at 05:28 PM |
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i dont iamgine it matters too much what colour you paint a missile, does it
atb
steve
mind you, pink would look a bit duff on a tornado....
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 14/12/04 at 08:31 PM |
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I think you need stonechip vinyl, available from bodyshop suppliers. It is the same stuff you see on the rear quarters of Porsche 944's and the
like. It can be overpainted and does the job a treat.
I looks just like thick rubbery cellotape and comes in rolls upto a max of 300mm. Warm it with a heatgun, and you will not get any air bubbles
especially if you work from the centre and work outwards. You can also use soapy water to float it into position, and then squeegie the water away
with a filler spreader.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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Avoneer
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posted on 14/12/04 at 09:02 PM |
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What's wrong with the bit of ali or stainless riveted on solution?
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Craig81
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posted on 15/12/04 at 06:48 PM |
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i have got some ali protectors on there, all the chipps are appearing all around them!!!!!
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chunkielad
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posted on 9/1/05 at 11:26 PM |
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Speak to LIZ at KPMF direct (vinyl supplier to the sign industry) http://www.kpmfdirect.co.uk/
and tell her Craig from Warrior Signs sent you. Ask her for some VWS. It's a vehicle wrap vinyl that comes in clear (often printed on before
applying to add images to vehicles). It's quite thick so will protect against most stone chips and will (with a bit of heat and practise) cover
the whole car if you want to.
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silex
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posted on 10/1/05 at 01:04 PM |
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Which type of 2-pack paint did you use ?
Murphy's 2 laws
1. If it can go wrong it will
2. In case of emergency - refer to rule 1.
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DarrenW
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posted on 11/1/05 at 10:40 AM |
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In my BMW days a lot of the lads doing track days in the family cars used something like armourfend to protect from chips. If i remember correctly it
was marketed towards the track day crowd. I think there are several products available. I do about 25 - 30K miles a year in my Mondeo and fitted the
Ford bonnet protector. Clear film, use spray of sqeezy on bonnet first. Once aligned removed bubbles. Tight corners warmed up with hair drier first.
With practice can look 'almost' invisible. After a year i cant see any chips through to the bonnet.
What is the best stuff to use as mud guard on cycle wings?
Cheers,
Darren.
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Marcus
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posted on 11/1/05 at 09:09 PM |
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Darren
Re mudflap material, I'm in the process of fitting some made from clear anti slip table mats I found in a yacht chandlers. Exactly the right
size and nearly invisible (when clean!!)
Marcus
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
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