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Author: Subject: Craig's 442E BMW powered build
ettore bugatti

posted on 26/7/16 at 10:27 PM Reply With Quote
Bet they are.

For EWS removal have a browse here:
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2512

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craigdiver

posted on 27/7/16 at 06:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ettore bugatti
Bet they are.

For EWS removal have a browse here:
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2512


What is the problem with using the original loom to run the engine. I plan to keep the ignition barrel off the BMW so why should I encounter a problem?. I don't understand what they are discussing on the other forum? Do they not want to use the loom, EWS & DME from the donor car. Or have they just bought the engine and need an ECU to run it?

Please excuse the ignorance.

Craig

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craigdiver

posted on 29/7/16 at 05:23 PM Reply With Quote
Spent my spare time in the last couple of day's continuing to strip the wiring loom from the BMW.

Now got the dashboard out. Steering column was mounted with a shear-head bolt that is designed not to be removed (for some reason). Fortunately my special tool (cordless grinder) soon sorted it out. Also have exposed the A/C and heater matrix. The size of the heater matrix is ridiculous and bigger than the engine cooling radiators on some cars I have owned!

Anyway, here is a photo of the progress.

Absolute obscene the amount of wiring in this BMW.


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craigdiver

posted on 30/7/16 at 05:04 PM Reply With Quote
Busy day, rear subframe removed. Really pleased to see lovely adjustable coil-overs.

Subframe weighs a ton, wishbones good so will replicate the wishbone geometry on the back of my chassis and use the huge 18" BMW wheels.


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craigdiver

posted on 30/7/16 at 05:19 PM Reply With Quote
Also started on the front of the car, I noticed the steering rack is in front of the wheels, it may be a steering box rather than a rack (not sure of the difference). Can I use this or will having power steering be a bit OTT?

I have sierra hubs on order from ebay as want to stick to the tried and tested standard geometry from the book. Going to look at engineering a solution to allow me to use the 5-stud BMW front wheels, anyone done something similar?

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craigdiver

posted on 31/7/16 at 07:07 PM Reply With Quote
Almost ready to release the beast, just waiting on engine hoist arriving before I go under it to attempt to undo the exhaust downpipes from the manifold and remove the gearbox mounting.

Disconnected more wiring and almost ready to remove the full wiring loom.


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craigdiver

posted on 31/7/16 at 07:15 PM Reply With Quote
An issue I have come across is how to remove the power steering pump. Managed to remove the aircon pump as that was on its own belt and tensioner but cannot remove the power steering pump as the pulley is needed in the alternator/water pump loop?

You can see the large power steering pulley below the alternator pulley in the photo above.

Any suggestions?

[Edited on 31/7/16 by craigdiver]

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Schrodinger

posted on 31/7/16 at 09:38 PM Reply With Quote
Just use a shorter belt and miss out the pump.





Keith
Aviemore

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craigdiver

posted on 31/7/16 at 09:46 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
Just use a shorter belt and miss out the pump.


Thanks Schrodinger, but I think the belt would be rubbing on the tensioner pulley if I done that, will take a better look at it tomorrow.

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craigdiver

posted on 1/8/16 at 04:03 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
quote:
Originally posted by ettore bugatti
The 23i engine pulls good as good as the later m54 25i, although that should have 20 more horses.

They are only 6kg which isn't too bad, I dont know how they fit on 5 series since the offset and centre bore are different.


Not had the wheels off yet to feel how heavy they are but at 18" I'm sure they won't be light.


The 18" alloys are suprisingly light, mind you, there is not much of them!

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craigdiver

posted on 1/8/16 at 04:08 PM Reply With Quote
Gearbox rear mount removed, Prop shaft removed, fuel tank ready to be dropped. Getting close to removing engine. Once removed, my intention is to run the engine very briefly (supported by engine hoist) to make sure all ok with the loom and BMW security system issues.

Removed a bit more wiring including the front door looms (just in case). Found another two airbags in the front doors.

Answers on a postcard about how much fun to have with the airbags ;-)

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craigdiver

posted on 3/8/16 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
Loom porn (if you are into looms!)


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craigdiver

posted on 4/8/16 at 07:25 PM Reply With Quote
Have been thinking about the BMW rear subframe and have the following idea to engineer its geometry into my 442E;

Going to remove wishbones and fabricate two rigid frames, one left and one right, which pick up the subframe wishbone mounting points. This will allow me to copy the geometry designed by BMW (think they probably knew what yhey were doing!).

The actual subframe is very heavy and possibly too wide so I intend to make my own subframe based on the two rigid frame mounting points and diff mounts. Once this lightweight subframe is complete I can incorporate it into the rear of the locost chassis.

Anyone got any suggestions or can see where I'll run into issues?

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ftaffy

posted on 5/8/16 at 01:06 AM Reply With Quote
Hey Craig,

I built an E36 M44 powered Locost and solved some of your issues.

RE to Power steering delete - There are kits around for the E30/E36, it looks the same for the E46 (very cheap). Its just a remove the pipes and banjo bolt the little plastic (has holes in it to run the oil in a loop) piece on and your done.

RE to belt rubbing issues. Some add a bearing mounted pulley but i instead just made a simple extension bracket for the alternator upper mount and swung it out to open up some clearance. It clears... just.

There was a locost build going in the US that reused the ear subframe, sadly he didnt finish and i cannnot find the site anymore so it might be gone.
Basically he got the entire frame to be able to be reused, and installed the mounts off the car into the chassis. I would think this would be heavy and alot of work.
My option was to make basically Haynes rear uprights, then make a bolt on bearing hub which could take the E36 bearing. You could of course do what GKD Legend did and make it all 1 piece.
A better solution would be to find a bearing that suits the hubs that is bolt on, i didnt but in hindsight really should have exhausted this option was making the hub carriers was really one of the weakest links in my build. Took a long time to get them working.

In summary my suggestion:
1. Reuse the driveshafts/diff etc.
2. Ditch the suspension/hubs (lots of weight for little gain, a MX5 bolt in set up at least gives you a complete simple dual a-arms)
3. Workout an OEM bolt on bearing to suit the E46 press in hubs
4. Make some haynes uprights, modified to suit the bolt on bearing you found.
5. Make the longer suspension arms required.
6. Get some wide guards, i found my rear was just too wide to fit the tyres. The haynes chassis width works fine so dont change that.
7. Enjoy the BMW engine and box powering something that lost 1000kg off its normal weight.

5 series had bolt on bearings, i didnt check to see if you could put the 3 series shafts into a 5 series hub or possibly just bolt a set of 5 series shafts to the diff.

cheers,
Taffy

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ftaffy

posted on 5/8/16 at 01:12 AM Reply With Quote
BMW EWS

Remember to keep the key, transcoder and ECU.
I kept the system in my build. After it got working there were no problems... before that... Its a nightmare as you have no idea if its key, trans coder or ECU issue or wiring in between. I had to replace the ring around the ignition barrel as i found i had a break in the wiring that if it was moved would mean you could not start the car.

Its actually a fairly straight forward system if you just joining the BMW parts and treating them as black boxes. The newer ODB2 cars to get a delete done is a send away job, and unless you are doing a power upgrade i would not bother.
Just draw out the wiring diagram and be clear on each connection, map the power/grounds etc so you can test those at each step.

Cheers,
Taffy

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craigdiver

posted on 5/8/16 at 06:44 AM Reply With Quote
Wow - thank you Taffy for the great info. Going to have a think about what you have said and may have a few questions (if that is ok?)

Did you do a build diary with photos?

Cheers

Craig

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craigdiver

posted on 5/8/16 at 07:26 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ftaffy
RE to belt rubbing issues. Some add a bearing mounted pulley but i instead just made a simple extension bracket for the alternator upper mount and swung it out to open up some clearance. It clears... just.


Good news on the power steering pump, fitted a 1370mm belt and it is perfect;


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craigdiver

posted on 5/8/16 at 07:44 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ftaffy
In summary my suggestion:
1. Reuse the driveshafts/diff etc.
2. Ditch the suspension/hubs (lots of weight for little gain, a MX5 bolt in set up at least gives you a complete simple dual a-arms)
3. Workout an OEM bolt on bearing to suit the E46 press in hubs
4. Make some haynes uprights, modified to suit the bolt on bearing you found.
5. Make the longer suspension arms required.
6. Get some wide guards, i found my rear was just too wide to fit the tyres. The haynes chassis width works fine so dont change that.
7. Enjoy the BMW engine and box powering something that lost 1000kg off its normal weight.

5 series had bolt on bearings, i didnt check to see if you could put the 3 series shafts into a 5 series hub or possibly just bolt a set of 5 series shafts to the diff.

cheers,
Taffy


Taffy, going to take your advice, I owe you a pint or two :-)

1. I'll use the driveshafts, prop shaft, diff
2. Got sierra hubs for the front in standard locost setup - need to work out how to fit BMW 5 stud wheels to sierra hubs. Going to go with Haynes rear end. Will try to reuse BMW hubs for driveshaft/wheel compatibility.
4. Don't know what haynes uprights are, yet! - not got that far.
6. Wheels are 18" and tyres are 245/40R18 so will probably have to pick up rear arches so I can determine width of wishbones mounts.
7. I am hoping for sub 4s 0-60

thanks again Taffy

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Schrodinger

posted on 5/8/16 at 08:17 PM Reply With Quote
how do granada 5 stud wheels compared with the bm? iirc the early granada was very similar to the sierra so you might get away with using the granada hubs or if nothave the redrilled to bm pcd.





Keith
Aviemore

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craigdiver

posted on 5/8/16 at 08:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ftaffy
BMW EWS

Remember to keep the key, transcoder and ECU.
I kept the system in my build. After it got working there were no problems... before that... Its a nightmare as you have no idea if its key, trans coder or ECU issue or wiring in between. I had to replace the ring around the ignition barrel as i found i had a break in the wiring that if it was moved would mean you could not start the car.

Its actually a fairly straight forward system if you just joining the BMW parts and treating them as black boxes. The newer ODB2 cars to get a delete done is a send away job, and unless you are doing a power upgrade i would not bother.
Just draw out the wiring diagram and be clear on each connection, map the power/grounds etc so you can test those at each step.

Cheers,
Taffy


I have EWS 3 in the BMW 523i so I have removed the loom complete and will keep the EWS unit, DME engine mannagement, key barrel transponder & key together but will simplify the loom just for engine management & starting.

Still to research if my EWS 3 can get a security delete, or maybe I should keep it as a security measure to stop it getting stolen.

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craigdiver

posted on 5/8/16 at 08:26 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
how do granada 5 stud wheels compared with the bm? iirc the early granada was very similar to the sierra so you might get away with using the granada hubs or if nothave the redrilled to bm pcd.


On a quick inspection, the BMW front hubs look similiar shape as the sierra ones. Am I likely to have problems finding suitable balljoints for the wishbones?. Planning on using the BMW steering rack so that would be a direct fit.

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ettore bugatti

posted on 5/8/16 at 09:02 PM Reply With Quote
Couldn't you use what GKD are using?
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craigdiver

posted on 5/8/16 at 09:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ettore bugatti
Couldn't you use what GKD are using?


Had never heard of GKD, googled them and found their 3 series based kitcar. Took snapshot of car as love the paintjob and the big BMW wheels.

Wonder how similiar the 3-series and 5-series hubs are?

Might give them a call on Monday.

Thanks for that ettore bugatti. Lots of pieces coming together in what is turning out to be a complex puzzle. Should be worth it in the end.

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ftaffy

posted on 6/8/16 at 09:49 AM Reply With Quote
Hey,

What GKD did was not road legal in Australia (well my engineer would not sign it off). So i went with mushrooms inside the cut down mcpherson struts.
My build can be seen in the pdfs here, missing the last few which i will need to pull off the other computer and put up when i get a chance.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B64orUhbOtS_X3NxRDI4WS1nYkU

FYI i am in Australia so some of things i had to do probably wont apply in your case.

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craigdiver

posted on 6/8/16 at 12:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ftaffy
Hey,

What GKD did was not road legal in Australia (well my engineer would not sign it off). So i went with mushrooms inside the cut down mcpherson struts.
My build can be seen in the pdfs here, missing the last few which i will need to pull off the other computer and put up when i get a chance.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B64orUhbOtS_X3NxRDI4WS1nYkU

FYI i am in Australia so some of things i had to do probably wont apply in your case.


Can't seem to get the link to work, can't wait to see the photos.

Cheers

Craig

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