james-w
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| posted on 18/8/16 at 09:04 PM |
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If you have a close look at the diff you will see the input is off centre so is a right pain to fit.
Also epends if you will want an LSD or not as the only e39 that had one is the M5. You could look at other options like Mazda RX8 which I believe has
an LSD in all models bar the automatic.
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ettore bugatti
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| posted on 18/8/16 at 09:56 PM |
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Re-using the subframe could be an attractive alternative if you were building a ladder framed cruiser, but then you want to re-use the front
suspension assembly as well.
You might just end up building a 6-series...
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ftaffy
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| posted on 22/8/16 at 04:57 AM |
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Hey Mate,
I came across a list of cars which use the same size wheel bearing as an E36 on the rear (the hub can be pressed in and the shafts reused)
I have not confirmed any of this, so do your homework before using!
ALFA 33 2WD 1984-3/1989
ALFA 33 4WD 1985-1987
AUDI 100 1.9L 1974-1987
AUDI 100 1.9L 1983-9/1985
AUDI 200 1982-1984
BMW REAR 316i E36 1995-1999 (WITH TRACTION CONTROL)
BMW REAR 316ti E46 1999-2005
BMW REAR 318i E46 1998-2005
BMW REAR 318is E30 1990-1991
BMW REAR 318is E36 1992-1999
BMW REAR 318ti E46 1998-2005
BMW REAR 320i E36 1991-1995
BMW REAR 320i E46 2000-2004
BMW REAR 320ci E46 2000-2006
BMW REAR 323i E36 1996-1998
BMW REAR 323i E46 1998-2000
BMW REAR 323ci E46 1999-2002
BMW REAR 325e E30 1986-1987
BMW REAR 325i E30 1988-1990
BMW REAR 325i E36 1991-1995
BMW REAR 325i E46 2000-2004
BMW REAR 325i E90, E92, E93 2005
BMW REAR 325ci E46 2000-2006
BMW REAR 325ti E46 2002-2005
BMW REAR 328i E36, E46 1993-2000
BMW REAR 328ci E46 1999-2002
BMW REAR M 1998-2003
BMW REAR Z4 A85 2003
BMW REAR Z3 6CYL EXCEPT 3.2L 1997
MERCEDES FRONT A CLASS 168 1997-2004
PORSCHE REAR 911 IRS 1968-1973
PORSCHE FRONT 911 993 2WD & AWD 1994-1998
PORSCHE FRONT 911 996 1996-2006 (EXCEPT GT-2,GT-3)
PORSCHE FRONT BOXTER 986 2.5L, 2.7L 1997-2004
PORSCHE REAR BOXTER 986 2.5L, 2.7L 1997-2004
PORSCHE FRONT BOXTER 986 3.2L 1999-2001
PORSCHE FRONT BOXTER 986 3.2L 2002-2004
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craigdiver
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| posted on 22/8/16 at 08:37 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ftaffy
Hey Mate,
I came across a list of cars which use the same size wheel bearing as an E36 on the rear (the hub can be pressed in and the shafts reused)
I have not confirmed any of this, so do your homework before using!
My donor is a 5-series E39, any info on the wheel bearings for that?
Cheers 
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ftaffy
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| posted on 22/8/16 at 10:11 PM |
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Sorry forgot your not using the E36.
The E39 is a bolt on bearing pack isnt it? Thats pefect for locost application, just use the Haynes upright and modify to suit the bolt spacing on the
bearing.
And check the wheel offset/scrub obviously.
From my understanding the E39 series bearing is stand alone, so you wont find an off the shelf upright that will suit your needs.
Cheers,
Taffy
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james-w
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| posted on 23/8/16 at 12:00 PM |
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Yes the E39 bearing is a standalone bolt on so it may be possible to modify the standard Haynes upright, i made custom ones for my car so I could use
the wheel bearings.
If you do use the E39 wheel bearing you will need to machine the hub slightly to accept other BMW wheels or you will be limited to only using the E39
wheels due to the bore size. E39 are 74.1mm and all other wheels are 72.56m
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craigdiver
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| posted on 24/8/16 at 04:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by james-w
Yes the E39 bearing is a standalone bolt on so it may be possible to modify the standard Haynes upright, i made custom ones for my car so I could use
the wheel bearings.
If you do use the E39 wheel bearing you will need to machine the hub slightly to accept other BMW wheels or you will be limited to only using the E39
wheels due to the bore size. E39 are 74.1mm and all other wheels are 72.56m
I have chickened out of modifying the e39 hubs and have bought sierra hubs to use.
Am I wanting to use the IRS setup from the haynes roadster book or someone has suggested using Rorty IRS setup? Any comments?
Cheers
Craig
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craigdiver
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| posted on 27/8/16 at 02:50 PM |
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Holy crap - LA & LB had my brain hurting but fluked them in the end.....
Just love compound angle cuts
 upload pictures
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craigdiver
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| posted on 27/8/16 at 02:53 PM |
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Chassis gone 3D, feeling chuffed :-)
 upload a
picture
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craigdiver
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| posted on 1/9/16 at 06:08 AM |
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Added a few upper rails, fitting together nicely.
Any advice on engine placement, can I have an inch of sump sticking out the bottom?
 photo upload
sites
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Nickp
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| posted on 1/9/16 at 06:33 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
Any advice on engine placement, can I have an inch of sump sticking out the bottom?
I positioned my M52B28 so it just to say clears the Equinox bonnet. I didn't want to start cutting the bonnet about and make it look a dogs
dinner. I ended up chopping 25mm out of the bottom of the sump and even then it's still about 40mm below the bottom rails. It will be getting a
substantial sump guard 
Not the easiest shaped sump to modify but got there in the end. The pickup itself on has the very end modified as it would've touched the sump.
I intend to fit the biggest oil cooler I can to compensate for the loss of capacity. IIRC I'm down to about 4.5 litres from the std 6litre+
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craigdiver
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| posted on 1/9/16 at 02:10 PM |
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Great work Nickp, think ill opt for an inch below frame with sump guard and bulge in bonnet or a cutout displaying BMW engine covers (if it is SVA
compliant?)
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ftaffy
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| posted on 5/9/16 at 09:56 AM |
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Wow Nick that is fairly intensive piece of work.
Am i right to assume the M52 also has a Alloy sump? The M44 i used had once as well but i outsourced its mods to a pipe welder.
Craig - i cut 25mm off the sump + added a mustang scoop and it still hangs out the bottom of a 115mm ride height Haynes height chassis car and i have
hit it hard a few times. Going to need an engine out repair soon as it leaks on cool down.
A sump guard is a good move and the direction i am going and possibly adding an accusump once i get the high speed issues (light front end, drive line
vibration and an aero screen) sorted and tackle some track days.
Cheers,
Taffy
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james-w
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| posted on 5/9/16 at 12:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
Holy crap - LA & LB had my brain hurting but fluked them in the end.....
Just love compound angle cuts
upload pictures
You will need to modify the front if you want to use a standard Haynes nosecone as its too wide at the top.
Equinox have the dimensions of all their parts on their Facebook page.
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craigdiver
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| posted on 5/9/16 at 06:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ftaffy
Wow Nick that is fairly intensive piece of work.
Am i right to assume the M52 also has a Alloy sump? The M44 i used had once as well but i outsourced its mods to a pipe welder.
Craig - i cut 25mm off the sump + added a mustang scoop and it still hangs out the bottom of a 115mm ride height Haynes height chassis car and i have
hit it hard a few times. Going to need an engine out repair soon as it leaks on cool down.
A sump guard is a good move and the direction i am going and possibly adding an accusump once i get the high speed issues (light front end, drive line
vibration and an aero screen) sorted and tackle some track days.
Cheers,
Taffy
Great info, I'm using the McSorley 442E chassis plans which are 50mm taller at the enging compartment, will stick 25mm of sump (with substantial
sump guard) out the bottom and bulge the bonnet to fit. Still quite like the idea of a cutout showing the BMW logo'd engine covers.
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craigdiver
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| posted on 5/9/16 at 06:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by james-w
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
Holy crap - LA & LB had my brain hurting but fluked them in the end.....
Just love compound angle cuts
upload pictures
You will need to modify the front if you want to use a standard Haynes nosecone as its too wide at the top.
Equinox have the dimensions of all their parts on their Facebook page.
I was aware that going with the mcsorely 442E plans that the nosecone & bodywork would need to be customised (butchered!!!).
'Apparently' there are suppliers of oversized nosecones but that may be in the USA.
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craigdiver
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| posted on 7/9/16 at 04:00 PM |
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Now got complete set of Sierra running gear, what calipers / brake discs do I fit to the front hubs, sierra ones or something else?
 picture share
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craigdiver
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| posted on 4/10/16 at 09:00 PM |
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Been mega busy with work so only managed bits and pieces over the last few weeks;
Got the sierra hubs sand blasted and etch primed, thinking black, anybody tried other colours? Silver? Do I need bare metal in the tapers or is a thin
coat of primer ok?
Removed BMW diff from subframe (its heavy), found the subframe to be aluminium so cannot reuse mounts, any ideas anyone?
Picked up some, very cheap - £50, ford focus zetec alloys, ET offset probably not suitable for car but will give me a rolling chassis until I win the
lottery and buy some magnesium billet wheels!
Also got a load of welding done on the chassis, going to do front suspension setup then have a first trial fit if engine to determine placement of
engine bay rails etc.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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| posted on 4/10/16 at 09:04 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by james-w
You will need to modify the front if you want to use a standard Haynes nosecone as its too wide at the top.
Equinox have the dimensions of all their parts on their Facebook page.
Took your advice and modified to Haynes Roadster spec, should save some grief, thank you
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 17/10/16 at 02:25 PM |
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I´d leave the primer on the tapers until ready to assemble,
then a light sanding to remove.
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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craigdiver
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| posted on 25/12/16 at 05:27 PM |
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Car finished!
Well not quite, building of real car on hold due to no heating in my workshop, however, my Lego Caterham 7 model has now been built and passed my own
rigorous inspection!
 image hosting
10mb limit
[Edited on 25/12/16 by craigdiver]
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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wylliezx9r
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| posted on 25/12/16 at 08:59 PM |
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Excellent and nice jumper lol
I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I just squandered.
George Best
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craigdiver
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| posted on 3/1/17 at 06:52 PM |
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Good progress over the last week, finished building 'phase 1' of my chassis and had my friend Jim (coded welder) fully weld it up. He took
great pleasure ripping the poo out of my welding skills (I thought I had done ok!). Next job is to test fit engine to get engine mount placement,
measurements for transmission tunnel etc., then can start building rear end.
Jim in action, makes welding look easy
 photoupload
Looking good....
 upload image free
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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craigdiver
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| posted on 4/1/17 at 06:15 PM |
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Decided to drop the engine into the engine bay to see what modifications are needed to the chassis rails to fit it in - good news is that it will fit,
but holy crap, its tight! Ill post photos once I get it into its final position and onto its mounts. I'm glad I went for the modified chassis
with a longer and talker engine bay.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
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Nickp
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| posted on 5/1/17 at 07:31 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
Decided to drop the engine into the engine bay to see what modifications are needed to the chassis rails to fit it in - good news is that it will fit,
but holy crap, its tight! Ill post photos once I get it into its final position and onto its mounts. I'm glad I went for the modified chassis
with a longer and talker engine bay.
You want to try a std Haynes chassis with an M52, now that is tight!!  The gearbox bellhousing is probably the biggest problem. With the engine
right back and central it wants to hit the driver footwell upright, but if you move it over the sump hits the lower passenger side engine bay rail
even more than it already was. I shaved the lugs off the gearbox on the drivers side and managed to keep it central(ish).
I'd recommend you get a bonnet (or the finished profile of one) before you try and place your engine mounts. I did mine twice, cutting out about
1" at the 2nd attempt to squeeze it under there and leave the absolute minimum poking below. My sump, which was one of the trickier parts of the
build, only lost me about 1.5ltrs of oil (leaving me at a reasonable 5ltr capacity).
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