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Author: Subject: Stiff wood
craigdiver

posted on 9/8/16 at 06:44 PM Reply With Quote
Stiff wood

Going to be picking up a 8x4 sheet of wood to start my chassis, any advice on what type of wood is the most rigid? (My workbench is 6x3 and don't want the board sagging at the edges)

Thanks

Craig

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ian locostzx9rc2

posted on 9/8/16 at 07:06 PM Reply With Quote
I guess maybe 2 thick sheets of MDF
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coozer

posted on 9/8/16 at 07:17 PM Reply With Quote
Your better off building a frame out of 4x2 to go over your workbench and screw a thick pice of MDF on top.





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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craigdiver

posted on 9/8/16 at 07:23 PM Reply With Quote
MDF it is then, thanks
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Slimy38

posted on 9/8/16 at 07:23 PM Reply With Quote
Rigid wood will be expensive, heavy and not necessarily flat. As mentioned, you're better off with a thinner sheet of MDF reinforced with 4x2.
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hizzi

posted on 9/8/16 at 07:36 PM Reply With Quote
i used frame made from cls timber . (roughly 4x2 but finished and square) then i put a sheet of 12mm finished ply on top. the finished ply allows for drawing out by pencil as you go.
beware of mdf if you dampness in your workshop it will flop in days

home from hols now craig if you want a nose, also should get bodywork tomorrow

[Edited on 9/8/16 by hizzi]

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cliftyhanger

posted on 10/8/16 at 06:23 AM Reply With Quote
I don't like MDF, it suffers badly if it gets damp, and although the surface is hard (usually, not always) once that is damaged it is soft and flaky under.
Exterior/WBP ply is much better.

If you want a strong rigid platform, how about making a box up? The 38x63CLS timber is well priced. Top made of 9 or 12mm ply, the bottom thin stuff. $ lengths of CLS, with a piece across the top and bottom. Sounds complicated, but would be quick and easy to make. Glued and nailed, it would be VERY rigid.

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axle

posted on 10/8/16 at 06:57 AM Reply With Quote
I agree with all above it is a good idea to get the board as solid as you can, the heat from the weld can cause distortion!!





Regards Axle

IVA passed 1st time thanks to the Forum members.

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benchmark51

posted on 10/8/16 at 07:52 AM Reply With Quote
I did mine with a 8x4 sheet + 2 8x2 sheets on top which gave a nice permanent centreline. Made a frame from steel box section. Just happened to have the materials at the time. Re-used them when finished though.
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designer

posted on 10/8/16 at 08:06 AM Reply With Quote
For a flat and rigid build surface, use a cheap fire door, they are solid wood, straight and very strong .
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myke pocock

posted on 10/8/16 at 04:37 PM Reply With Quote
8' x 4' sheet of 1/4" ply then show it a picture of Suzi Perry. That will make it stiff enough. (or it would in my garage anyway!!!)
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craigdiver

posted on 10/8/16 at 06:52 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by myke pocock
8' x 4' sheet of 1/4" ply then show it a picture of Suzi Perry. That will make it stiff enough. (or it would in my garage anyway!!!)



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907

posted on 10/8/16 at 07:29 PM Reply With Quote
When I made my chassis I used a combination of three things.

Measuring every diagonal and comparing it with its opposite one at tack up.

I bought a 6m length of 50mm box and clamping it down the centre of the chassis while welding it.
( Imagine a hog roast, revolving on a spit. )
Made a pair of trestles with it afterwards.

Weld in sequence. Do a weld, weld its opposite, another, then its opposite, etc etc.



Welding on a table means you weld all the tops, then at some stage have to unclamp it and weld all the bottoms. ( = banana )


HTH
Paul G






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JoelP

posted on 10/8/16 at 07:51 PM Reply With Quote
Cls won't be perfectly straight. I'd use 50mm box section myself, with 9mm ply on top.





Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.

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