If you are sceptical for the need for using synthetic oils in modern engines watch this short Youtube video
GM Vauxhal-Opel & Saab engines are known to have problems if mineral oils are used.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
I remember when the MK 3 escort came out,my co used petrol ones and they knew better than Ford when it came to oil.
a lot seized,when the sumps were removed there was litrally just enough room to swing a crank and the sludge was inches thick....this was after only
about a year of use.
quote:Originally posted by ian locostzx9rc2
So how many miles age of the vehicle what oil was used and did it have regular oil change intervals ? Give us a clue...
Looks like a SAAB? Many SAAB engines replaced under warranty, because they specified a semi-synth with a 10,000 MILE change.
The CAT is directly under the sump, with very little clearance. Wonder what the sump looks like in that video?
Doesn't he state 196,000 miles on the video? Looks like long intervals between oil services IMHO.
My signum 2.0T is always changed between 5000-6000 miles. Horror stories of clogged oil scavenge pipes due to the poor clearance between sump and mesh
are quite common.
Oddly enough, I am tempted by a SAAB and have been looking into oil issues. Seeing one 'in the flesh' really shows how bad it can get.
Problem is in my price range I'm looking at home serviced SAAB's, and without removing the top of the engine I'm going to have
trouble checking the state of the engine.
quote:Originally posted by nick205
Always follow the manufacturers advice - they're pretty clear on oil specs and when to change.
Only time I would disagree is "long life" service intervals. For example If I took VW's advice the oil changes on my Transporter
would be done every 20,000 miles or so.
Personally regard this as asking for trouble, so do an oil and filter change in between services.
quote:Originally posted by nick205
Always follow the manufacturers advice - they're pretty clear on oil specs and when to change.
Only time I would disagree is "long life" service intervals. For example If I took VW's advice the oil changes on my Transporter
would be done every 20,000 miles or so.
Personally regard this as asking for trouble, so do an oil and filter change in between services.
I puzzled about this on my traffic until I went to do the oil change (spec is every 18.000 miles) - it took nearly 2 gallons! Easy way to extend
service life is to double the oil capacity.
Having said that like Wadders I change oil & filter every 10,000 miles its a cheap insurance - now at 180K and going strong.
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
GM ran into major sludge problems with these engines at the start of the 2,000's in the space of a couple of years they upgraded the specified
oil first to semi-synthetic then fully synthetic.
As mentioned earlier in the thread it was considered to caused by to the oil getting toasted by heat exhaust catalyst.
Synthetic oils will tolerate much higher temperatures without braking down and forming gunge, they have solvent and detergent properties that prevent
and disolve varnishes that form on internal parts.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
quote:Originally posted by britishtrident
GM ran into major sludge problems with these engines at the start of the 2,000's in the space of a couple of years they upgraded the specified
oil first to semi-synthetic then fully synthetic.
As mentioned earlier in the thread it was considered to caused by to the oil getting toasted by heat exhaust catalyst.
Synthetic oils will tolerate much higher temperatures without braking down and forming gunge, they have solvent and detergent properties that prevent
and disolve varnishes that form on internal parts.
Very interesting intuitively I assumed that sludge was caused by cool running ( i.e. no thermostat) hence the water condensation was not evaporating
off. So it is caused by overtemp breaking the oil down into some other compound?
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
quote:Originally posted by nick205
Always follow the manufacturers advice - they're pretty clear on oil specs and when to change.
Only time I would disagree is "long life" service intervals. For example If I took VW's advice the oil changes on my Transporter
would be done every 20,000 miles or so.
Personally regard this as asking for trouble, so do an oil and filter change in between services.
I puzzled about this on my traffic until I went to do the oil change (spec is every 18.000 miles) - it took nearly 2 gallons! Easy way to extend
service life is to double the oil capacity.
Having said that like Wadders I change oil & filter every 10,000 miles its a cheap insurance - now at 180K and going strong.
Photo Archive
Building: Dax Rush - very, very slowly....
posted on 15/9/16 at 03:42 PM
quote:Originally posted by 40inches
Look at the photo, 3rd row downSump Sludge
for comparison here's my donor engine as it came out: Donor Pinto
don't have any pics of the sump, but there was only a little sludge stuck to the bottom / in the corners
thats after 151,000 miles at 17 years old (the last few sitting in a field not moving) and thats with maybe 1 oil change a year if they remembered
with whatever cheap oil they had from the tractors on the farm (any random grade that looked about right)
My old Toyota Estima had the EGR routed to the top of the cam cover.
Exhaust soot was built up inside - I cleaned it and removed all the EGR.
I know the re circulation of exhaust keeps temps lower..
But the soot getting into the oil was terrible..
Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"
