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Author: Subject: MK IndyBlade
Banana

posted on 6/10/16 at 10:36 PM Reply With Quote
Yes the current tubes are pretty much the same length, give or take 0.1mm.

The prob is they are 44.40mm, which pulls the mount in and pinches the bush.

But they do look a bit ropy and saw cut, as you say.

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Nickp

posted on 7/10/16 at 05:25 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Banana
Ok so the ID of the mounting bracket is approx 45mm.

The width of the PolyBush is approx 43.80mm

If i get some new crush tubes made up at 45mm, this will eliminate any pinching, but will leave 1.2mm of space for lateral movement of the bush along the tube (although in theory they shouldn't able to, should they?)

Suppose I could use some 0.5 thick washers to take up any slop.

[Edited on 6/10/16 by Banana]


I'm currently assembling the wishbones on my Haynes and have opted for stainless washers either end of the polybush to take up the gap, 1.5mm in my case. I've opted for ones just slightly bigger than the crush tubes. These should stop the bush sliding along the tube but keep the friction / creaking to a minimum. I'm using copper grease btw.

Regarding AVO. I know it's too late as you've ordered the Protechs now, but I had a set rebuilt and they offered a very good very reasonable service TBH. I also had them commission a set for my Lancia Montecarlo which were very very good

[Edited on 7/10/16 by Nickp]

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ReMan

posted on 7/10/16 at 08:29 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Nickp
quote:
Originally posted by Banana
Ok so the ID of the mounting bracket is approx 45mm.

The width of the PolyBush is approx 43.80mm

If i get some new crush tubes made up at 45mm, this will eliminate any pinching, but will leave 1.2mm of space for lateral movement of the bush along the tube (although in theory they shouldn't able to, should they?)

Suppose I could use some 0.5 thick washers to take up any slop.

[Edited on 6/10/16 by Banana]


I'm currently assembling the wishbones on my Haynes and have opted for stainless washers either end of the polybush to take up the gap, 1.5mm in my case. I've opted for ones just slightly bigger than the crush tubes. These should stop the bush sliding along the tube but keep the friction / creaking to a minimum. I'm using copper grease btw.

Regarding AVO. I know it's too late as you've ordered the Protechs now, but I had a set rebuilt and they offered a very good very reasonable service TBH. I also had them commission a set for my Lancia Montecarlo which were very very good

[Edited on 7/10/16 by Nickp]

I think what your describing is not ideal, this is going to cause binding if the washers are pressing on the outside edges of the bushes. The washers need to be no larger than the tubes imho
Also I would not use copper grease. I was an advocate of this myself, but found on 2 applications that it dries out.
I am now using (shoot Me down in flames) normal lithium type grease, to good effect





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Nickp

posted on 7/10/16 at 08:56 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
quote:
Originally posted by Nickp
quote:
Originally posted by Banana
Ok so the ID of the mounting bracket is approx 45mm.

The width of the PolyBush is approx 43.80mm

If i get some new crush tubes made up at 45mm, this will eliminate any pinching, but will leave 1.2mm of space for lateral movement of the bush along the tube (although in theory they shouldn't able to, should they?)

Suppose I could use some 0.5 thick washers to take up any slop.

[Edited on 6/10/16 by Banana]


I'm currently assembling the wishbones on my Haynes and have opted for stainless washers either end of the polybush to take up the gap, 1.5mm in my case. I've opted for ones just slightly bigger than the crush tubes. These should stop the bush sliding along the tube but keep the friction / creaking to a minimum. I'm using copper grease btw.

Regarding AVO. I know it's too late as you've ordered the Protechs now, but I had a set rebuilt and they offered a very good very reasonable service TBH. I also had them commission a set for my Lancia Montecarlo which were very very good

[Edited on 7/10/16 by Nickp]

I think what your describing is not ideal, this is going to cause binding if the washers are pressing on the outside edges of the bushes. The washers need to be no larger than the tubes imho
Also I would not use copper grease. I was an advocate of this myself, but found on 2 applications that it dries out.
I am now using (shoot Me down in flames) normal lithium type grease, to good effect


So what stops the bush sliding off the tube into the gaps?

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Banana

posted on 7/10/16 at 09:44 AM Reply With Quote
If the crush tubes are slightly longer than the bush, then it shouldn't matter how big the washer is.

I guess the other option is to get slightly bigger bushes and use the 50mm crush tubes without washers.

This is becoming a PIA.

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Nickp

posted on 7/10/16 at 10:08 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Banana
If the crush tubes are slightly longer than the bush, then it shouldn't matter how big the washer is.

I guess the other option is to get slightly bigger bushes and use the 50mm crush tubes without washers.

This is becoming a PIA.


My bushes and tubes sit flush. I'm quite happy using a washer just a small amount bigger than the tube to give a few mm overlap.

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Banana

posted on 7/10/16 at 10:16 AM Reply With Quote
Your crush tubes need to be a fraction longer than the bush. The tubes get clamped by the force of the bolt, allowing the bush to hopefully rotate freely around it.
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Nickp

posted on 7/10/16 at 10:20 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Banana
Your crush tubes need to be a fraction longer than the bush. The tubes get clamped by the force of the bolt, allowing the bush to hopefully rotate freely around it.


They're doing exactly that

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Banana

posted on 11/10/16 at 09:55 PM Reply With Quote
Anyway, bit of an update.

Been spending hours working on the car recently, but not as much end result as id like. However, got lots of little jobs done.

Finished treating the rust on the rear end and generally tidying up.

I decided to order S/S crush tubes from Latheman and went for 44.70 x 19 x 12.1mm crush tubes.

Hope is that the 0.4mm increse in the length will reduce the pinch effect from the mounts. I can always sand down if some are too tight.
Inner diameter will be tighter than the original 1/2" tube, eliminating the chance of wishbones being slightly misaligned.
Thats the plan.

Discovered one of my lower wishbones is slightly bent. can this be straightened?
If not - does anyone have one?




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Banana

posted on 11/10/16 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
Removed the seats to see whats going on beneath. Treated the surface rust and replaced the puny 6 and 8mm bolts with (slightly ott) 10mm bolts.

Found that an m10 bolt fits perfectly in the seat rail, and acts as a captive head. So makes it alot easier to fit and remove.
Drilled the runners and floor, nice and easy upgrade over the original.

Made up some plates to spread the load on the seat and harness mounts. Probably overkill, but ive got no roll cage, so want to do all i can..

Also ordered some new eye bolts for the harness. The ones on the car had stripped threads and barely came through the nut. (can't believe it passed the mot tbh)




Old and new seat bolts




Captive head




Bolts yet to be trimmed down..



[Edited on 11/10/16 by Banana]

[Edited on 11/10/16 by Banana]

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adithorp

posted on 11/10/16 at 10:10 PM Reply With Quote
Are those the harness original "eye bolts" in the picture with the seat out? If so those are shockingly insufficient. In an accident they'd just straighten out.





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

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Banana

posted on 11/10/16 at 10:15 PM Reply With Quote
Yep. And the thread wasn't even protruding through the nut underneath. (A plain nut at that!)

Im starting to wonder if the MOT on this was done by a 'mate'.

Nevermind, im sorting things out as i find them. Not too much to go wrong on these things..

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Banana

posted on 11/10/16 at 10:18 PM Reply With Quote
Also did some shopping..

K&N filter element.

929RR clock/digi display.

Yokohama A-032 semi slicks

Protech shocks

And some carbon wrap... going to redo the dash with it somehow.

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adithorp

posted on 12/10/16 at 08:42 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Banana
Yep. And the thread wasn't even protruding through the nut underneath. (A plain nut at that!)

Im starting to wonder if the MOT on this was done by a 'mate'.

Nevermind, im sorting things out as i find them. Not too much to go wrong on these things..


Wouldn't normally be seen on an MOT unless they were clearly visible with the seats in. Mounting bolts aren't routinely checked. IVA (or SVA) on the other hand should have seen and failed those.





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/

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Banana

posted on 14/10/16 at 08:34 PM Reply With Quote
Postman came today

New seat belt bolts






Slightly over sized SS crush tubes, from Latheman. Great service and price.


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Banana

posted on 14/10/16 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
Excuse the flakey upright - that will be addressed..

I offered up the Protechs today, and it's been so long since i dismantled the car that i forgot how many washers were needed as spacers for the shocks.

Is this normal?

Secondly, the rear shocks dont seem perfectly vertical when mounted (as in the start of the thread)
If i let the shock hang, it wants to sit towards the right of the upright in the picture below.

If i had one washer on the right and three on the left it would be perfectly upright.

Would i be better doing this, or packing it so its central to the upright but not perfectly upright? As i have below.

Could someone advise?





[Edited on 14/10/16 by Banana]

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CosKev3

posted on 14/10/16 at 08:48 PM Reply With Quote
Mine are the same on my Mac1,I prefer the shock straight and have odd spacing either side in the upright.

Looks a better way imo

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Banana

posted on 14/10/16 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
Thats good to know - cheers Kev.
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Banana

posted on 8/11/16 at 10:10 PM Reply With Quote
Bit of an update.

Car is back on all fours, and despite being nowhere near finished, ive been making the most of the nice autumns weekends and driving it!

Probably done about 50 miles or so, and the basics seem good.

I fitted the new SS bushes, and was pleased i went for the fractionally over sized ones (see above for dims). This gave the bush a nice tight fit in the mount, and the narrower inner gave less slop for the 12mm bolt to move around in.

Very satisfying to reassemble and pack with grease.. No creaking anymore.

Protechs fitted. Not adjust them at all, but currently give a surprising smooth ride.

Changed the diff oil (can someone tell me what the numbers mean on crownwheel?)









2001 Fireblade silencer purchased. (About half the weight of the original beast) I made an a flange to go from the 50mm downpipe to the 3 bolt silencer fitment. Lovely TIG welding, but sadly not by me..








Next i wanted to address the lack of rev counter or speedo. As i have no idea, other than the sound from a nasty end can, as to how high up the rev band im taking it. Hopefully ive still got along way to go in each gear.
I really struggled to find anything on fitting a 929 cluster to 919 engine.
I got the clocks, got a 929 harness - but found it barley matched the 929 wiring diagrams i had.

Anyway, manged to get the illumination and rev counter working, after using the 919 and 929 diagrams and a bit of trial and error.
So once i had those basics going, i felt happy to whip the dash off and start removing the rather random lights and switches.
Labelled each wire, with the plan of attaching these to the 929 clocks... Hopefully.

From the back of the clocks i have some unidentified wires if anyone can help?
Blue/White, Red/White and Brown/White.





[Edited on 8/11/16 by Banana]

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Banana

posted on 8/11/16 at 10:18 PM Reply With Quote
Not sure what to do with the dash.
Im thinking to carbon wrap the whole thing might be a bit... carbony

So seeing as i have holes in the original i dont want, i leaning towards something like this.

An ally sheet, carbon wrapped centre console, to cover the holes and at the same time not over do the carbon look.

What do you guys think? Will a middle console piece look odd?

Also, whats the best way to actually mount/hold the clocks?


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CosKev3

posted on 8/11/16 at 11:27 PM Reply With Quote
Description
Description


I went full carbon on mine,and did the tunnel top to match

Ref the spare wires,the clocks are from an injection and the engine is carbed?
If so this is prob why you have spares,ECU light etc on the injection engine I would guess

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Banana

posted on 9/11/16 at 10:07 AM Reply With Quote
I like that. Did you wrap it yourself?

Good point about the wires, yes this is a carbed engine.

How did you retain the clocks in the dash?

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CosKev3

posted on 9/11/16 at 11:01 AM Reply With Quote
Yeah wrapped it myself,difficult on the curved part and it's not perfect on the underside as I overheated it a bit !

My Koso clocks have holes in the rear for self tapping screws,so I made a bracket out of some alloy that overlaps the hole in the dash from the rear,then screwed into the rear of clocks through the bracket,so clamped the clocks to the dash

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Banana

posted on 27/12/16 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
So i've finally pulled my finger out and pretty much finished the dash. (apart from redoing the wiring)
Id like to add some edging to go around the bottom, but struggling to find any wide enough for 10mm mdf.. Any suggestions?

Im fairly pleased with the final result. Added a USB port for the mobile phone and a slightly pointless voltage indicator.

I managed to change the gear lever from a 'pull to downshift' to 'push to downshift'.
Made a new mount from ally and some 10mm stainless rod, and moved the pivot point up. So after a few months of driving the other way round, ive got to re adjust to what i felt it should have been originally.












[Edited on 27/12/16 by Banana]

[Edited on 27/12/16 by Banana]

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CosKev3

posted on 27/12/16 at 08:04 PM Reply With Quote
Looks good

The volt gauge is well worth fitting on a BEC,as they have no charging/battery warning light on the standard clocks you have no idea of your charging state etc until the car starts to misfire
Been there and done that,car started to misfire then a mile up the road the battery was totally flat and it was a break down.

Ref the MDF I think people shape the thicker stuff with a router to round it off.

Have you put the gearstick back in the same place as it was before?looks quite far forward compared to where the steering wheel will be?

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