Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Repairing damaged threaded hole?
coozer

posted on 14/5/17 at 05:41 PM Reply With Quote
Repairing damaged threaded hole?

I have here the swingarm off my twin shock Suzuki Beamish...

This is the stud that the rear shock slips onto and should be secured with an m6 bolt and penny washer..

The thread has stripped and in the past someone has run a drill right through to bolt the shock on..

The hole runs through at an angle as if the drill bit bent as it was going through...



From the back side...



Now, what I was thinking of doing was filling the hole with my mig, clamping the bit to my drill press and drilling a new hole and tapping it...

Couple of things, the welding is bound to leave voids and maybe be too hard??

Also as you can see the thing is chromed...

Any better ideas anyone??

Ta,
Steve





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
mark chandler

posted on 14/5/17 at 06:03 PM Reply With Quote
Try and make a jig so you can drill it straight, open the hole up a couple of sizes then wind in a bigger bolt and tap and drill this to the correct size.

If it's a hollow frame then tap an drill a bit of stock, drill the whole shambles out and weld in the new bit of what is now internally thread bar.

Not much you can do about the chrome.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
britishtrident

posted on 14/5/17 at 06:04 PM Reply With Quote
M6 ? dosen't sound right for the purpose If I was repairing it I would dril a big hole and weld in a steel bush, in reality I would buy a new part.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
r1_pete

posted on 14/5/17 at 06:06 PM Reply With Quote
I think you'll do more harm than good trying to centre the hole, how about putting an m6 bolt through and welding the head to the inside of the arm??
View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
owelly

posted on 14/5/17 at 07:03 PM Reply With Quote
Weld it and redrill and tap, or drill it a larger size, tap it to suit then redrill and tap correct size.
If you use mild steel welding wire, you'll drill and tap it with no problems.





http://www.ppcmag.co.uk

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
coozer

posted on 14/5/17 at 07:14 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks, what I was going to do was take it out and make a new one on my lathe but I've sold it and now need it again... DOH!





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
trextr7monkey

posted on 14/5/17 at 08:01 PM Reply With Quote
Bring it over you can use one of ours. I should be over next weekend to visit my father so we can maybe get it sorted as I am backwards and forwards quite a lot since he had the fire
Atb
Mike





http://www.flickr.com/photos/14016102@N00/ (cut and paste this dodgey link)

Our most recent pics are here:
http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/trextr7monkey/

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
big-vee-twin

posted on 14/5/17 at 09:13 PM Reply With Quote
It looks like a bush is welded in there already, I would grind off the weld remove it and fit a new one.





Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016

http://www.triangleltd.com

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
nick205

posted on 15/5/17 at 07:53 AM Reply With Quote
Observations...

1. It's been repaired quite badly already so doing it again may well make it worse!

2. M6 doesn't sound big enough to secure a shock - I'd have thought M10/M12 or even 1/2"

3. Chromed - you'll have to strip the Chrome away to weld to it anyway. Short of having the finished part re-Chromed I can't see what else you'd do about that. Paint or even powder coat might help, but I'd imagine the part gets a good battering from road grime/salt/water etc.

4. If you can get one how much is a replacement part? Sometimes it's best to replace and move on.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
pewe

posted on 15/5/17 at 09:37 AM Reply With Quote
You sure it's chromed? I think mine's nickel plated - just in case that makes a difference.
As suggested above I'd be inclined to drill out oversize, weld in a new bush and re-tap.
If it was good enough for Beamish then should be good enough now.
Isn't there a company somewhere around Leeds/Sheffield which holds the parts or is that a brain fart on my part?
Cheers, Pewe10

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
coozer

posted on 15/5/17 at 10:11 AM Reply With Quote
It's a 1976 suzuki Beamish trials bike with a English white hawk chromed frame conversion...

Got a quote to rechrome just the arm... £380... frame needs a little repair as well and rechroming the lot is way above the value of the bike...

There are no new parts available from white hawk, they are long gone....

Crooks suzuki in Barrow have all the suzuki parts in stock but not any of the British conversion parts..





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
ianhurley20

posted on 15/5/17 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
You can now get a powder coat that looks like chrome and is much cheaper



quote:
Originally posted by coozer
It's a 1976 suzuki Beamish trials bike with a English white hawk chromed frame conversion...

Got a quote to rechrome just the arm... £380... frame needs a little repair as well and rechroming the lot is way above the value of the bike...

There are no new parts available from white hawk, they are long gone....

Crooks suzuki in Barrow have all the suzuki parts in stock but not any of the British conversion parts..







View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
MikeRJ

posted on 15/5/17 at 04:26 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
1. It's been repaired quite badly already so doing it again may well make it worse!



That depends on how it's repaired. Drilling out the entire stud/spigot (see below) and welding in a new one should be fine.

quote:
Originally posted by nick205
2. M6 doesn't sound big enough to secure a shock - I'd have thought M10/M12 or even 1/2"



I'm assuming that the shock mounts onto a 10-12mm plain 'spigot' which has a threaded 6mm hole in the end. The M6 bolt would purely stop the shock working off the end of the spigot, it wouldn't take any of the actual suspension forces.

It would be pretty simple to make a replacement and weld it in place, though the job is made more difficult/expensive by the chrome finish.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.