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Author: Subject: shot blast and powder coat full chassis
rayward

posted on 28/7/17 at 07:57 PM Reply With Quote
shot blast and powder coat full chassis

has anyone ever had a full chassis blasted and powder coated ?

is any idea on cost ? and companies that could do this ?

Cheers
Ray

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perksy

posted on 28/7/17 at 08:30 PM Reply With Quote
Had a quote once for blasting a Westfield chassis and then powder coating it and iirc it came in at 1100 inc the VAT

This was a company in the West Midlands

This was on a restoration project that was being planned

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sdh2903

posted on 28/7/17 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
1100

I got my westy chassis, all interior ally panels, floor panels and a few other odds and sods blasted and coated for 350 all in. Not local to you tho at a place near Edinburgh.

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perksy

posted on 28/7/17 at 09:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
1100





Funny enough the lad who it was for chose a different path (no wonder) It got treated to POR 15 in the end

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tr7v8

posted on 28/7/17 at 09:23 PM Reply With Quote
I rebuilt a crashed early SEiW that had been powder coated, the coating lifted off in sheets with surface rust beneath. Because of this I'd never use powder coat.
Mine was rubbed down with a fine flap wheel & then zinc primer with gloss back I think Valspar on top.
Easy to touch up if you chip it as well which powder coat isn't.





Jim
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rusty nuts

posted on 29/7/17 at 05:25 AM Reply With Quote
I totally stripped my car about8 years ago just to remove the powder coating which in places was lifting off in sheets. . I would not powder coat a chassis myself.
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CosKev3

posted on 29/7/17 at 06:04 AM Reply With Quote
That's probably due to the coaters doing a half arsed job!

Powder coat needs a 'key' on the surface to adhere too,so even new shiney steel needs a light shot blast for powder coat to work properly.

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David Jenkins

posted on 29/7/17 at 06:38 AM Reply With Quote
Mine was shot-blasted, primed with that yellow-green 2-pack primer, then powder-coated. The plastic is still firmly attached after 12 or 13 years.

Preparation is everything, no matter what the coating!





The older I get, the better I was...

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kenton

posted on 29/7/17 at 06:51 AM Reply With Quote
When I built my Viento the first thing I did as Luego's have bad reputation for powdercoat was have the chassis shot blast back to bare metal, hot Zinc sprayed then re powdercoated. Still looks good today. Cost 300 cash.
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rusty nuts

posted on 29/7/17 at 07:33 AM Reply With Quote
I don't know how you can say Luego's have a bad reputation for powder Coat??
Maybe if the chassis had been blasted prior to powder coating it might have lasted but I got fed up with trying to touch it up .

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kenton

posted on 29/7/17 at 07:54 AM Reply With Quote
Maybe a bit harsh. All I remember before building was a few stories of the powdercoat peeling off, so I took the precaution of doing it right.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=126608&page=1
Kenton

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ragindave

posted on 29/7/17 at 10:00 AM Reply With Quote
Westfield charge around 200 for shot blast and powder coat.
I got it done a little cheaper locally.
With out the shot blast you have no key for the powder coat and the chassis will start peeling as a result.

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alfas

posted on 29/7/17 at 10:27 AM Reply With Quote
powder coat is related to proper preparation of the chassis in advance.

amongst other treatsments, shot blasting is a "must", also zinc pasivating.

if those 2 "little" details are respected, nothing goes wrong anymore.


TVR hat massive problems when they started the powder-coating process in-house.
the coating flaked-off within a few years , leaving a toally corroded chassis to the owners.

TVR chassis from the beginning of the 80ies, where TVR used a external-specialist for the coating process, might still show until today a good coating, wheras later cars, until the late 2000s, are a night mare.

TVR sometimes even stored the bare chassis outside only "protected" by some oil on the chassis-tubes. even with this "protection" the chassis tubes where collecting surface rust, followed by a coating directly on the oily/rusty surface!!!

[Edited on 29/7/17 by alfas]

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rayward

posted on 29/7/17 at 08:38 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks everyone for your replies ,

i was a little concerned about patching powder coat if it got damaged ,

i think i will go for blasting then painting .

cheers
Ray

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alfas

posted on 30/7/17 at 08:41 AM Reply With Quote
you can patch a powder-coat with any chassis-paint you like.

this said, if powder-coat is done right, it will well resist any external impact, as its flexible.
and the zinc-passivating underneath will protect aganst corrosion, once the powder would get damaged.

another option: galvanize the chassis....than you can leave it like it is (and sae you time & effort for painting), or paint it

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.285799538284192.1073741853.209591302571683&type=3

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perksy

posted on 30/7/17 at 09:27 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by alfas
you can patch a powder-coat with any chassis-paint you like.

this said, if powder-coat is done right, it will well resist any external impact, as its flexible.
and the zinc-passivating underneath will protect aganst corrosion, once the powder would get damaged.

another option: galvanize the chassis....than you can leave it like it is (and sae you time & effort for painting), or paint it

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.285799538284192.1073741853.209591302571683&type=3





I liked your TVR photo's and in particular the jig for replacing the outriggers on the Griffith

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rusty nuts

posted on 30/7/17 at 01:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by kenton
Maybe a bit harsh. All I remember before building was a few stories of the powdercoat peeling off, so I took the precaution of doing it right.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=126608&page=1
Kenton


Sorry, it was meant to be a bit of a go at Luego.

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