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Author: Subject: Formula 27 2.0 Zetec
Plunky

posted on 5/12/17 at 05:02 PM Reply With Quote
Formula 27 2.0 Zetec

** Please read description **

The car is currently not running. Since fixing a minor oil leak, which involved removing the engine, the car only turns over and will not start properly. I am sure this is something electrical based, however I do not have the time/funds at present to put into investigating and rectifying the issue. You can hear the car turn over, and hear that it is mechanically sound. Due to this, the car will need to be trailered away.

Formula 27 Locost Kit Car
1997
Wide Body chassis
Orange
MOT - Mar 2018
(Only advisories being low tread on rear tyres)

Engine & transmission
2.0 Zetec Blacktop - brand new crate engine fitted circa 600 miles ago - tuned by Dale @ Bailey Performance to 165bhp.
Megasquirt standalone ECU
Raceline sump
Westfield air intake
Brand new flywheel & clutch
New Custom fabricated ally fuel tank (baffled and sumped)
Recent new SS exhaust centre section and heat wrapped manifold
Custom ARF alloy header tank
Ford Type 9 gearbox - new seals

Suspension & wheels/tyres
Inboard front suspension design - Brand new Protech dampers front & rear
Rose jointed 4 way rear linkage
Ford wheels in silver*
Semi Slick tyres - Maragoni Zeta 195/50/15 semi slicks (to be fitted, currently has very worn r888s fitted)
M16 spaced front calipers - new discs & pads

Interior
Acewell digital dash (with water & oil temp)
Oil pressure gauge (brand new)
GRP/carbon seats
4 point harnesses
Fire extinguisher
Remote battery cut off switch
USB power point

Exterior
Orange paintwork - looks amazing in the sun light!
Comes with wet weather gear - roof and doors
Also comes with bubble screen which can be used to replace windscreen
Recently powder coated roll bar

Folder full of paperwork - original plans, build receipts etc.**

Genuine reason for sale. Enthusiast owned and looked after accordingly. I have owned the car for over 4 years and have spent a lot of time and money making it the car it is today. I am genuinely devastated to have to sell up.

Amazing car to drive. Very quick - would make a great track car or simply a weekend toy!

£6495 ONO

Please get in touch with any questions or to arrange a viewing.

Located in Chippenham, Wiltshire.








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big_wasa

posted on 5/12/17 at 06:50 PM Reply With Quote
Shame your not local, I would soon have that running again.
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Plunky

posted on 5/12/17 at 07:04 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Shame your not local, I would soon have that running again.


So do I! Really struggling to find someone local who can lend a hand...

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Barkalarr
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Posts 881
Registered 14/3/12
Location Essex
Member Is Offline

Photo Archive Go!
Building: Caterham R300, Caterham Roadsport,Indy R1,Indy Zet

posted on 5/12/17 at 08:11 PM Reply With Quote
If that was me, I'd put it on a trailer and go and see Big_Wasa - take him to the cafe, fill him up and let him loose on it.... (regardless of distance)

His knowledge fixed my Zetec install when I had problems a while back...

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Plunky

posted on 5/12/17 at 09:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Barkalarr
If that was me, I'd put it on a trailer and go and see Big_Wasa - take him to the cafe, fill him up and let him loose on it.... (regardless of distance)

His knowledge fixed my Zetec install when I had problems a while back...


Thing is, I donít have a trailer, or a vehicle that could tow a trailer.... otherwise I would have taken it to somebody in the know. unless someone can help me on that front?

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ianm67

posted on 6/12/17 at 09:56 AM Reply With Quote
You could try shiply.com I used the service on a number of occasions and have found the people exceptional. Get the car delivered, have it fixed and drive it back......





Always biting off more than I can chew.....

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Plunky

posted on 6/12/17 at 04:57 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Shame your not local, I would soon have that running again.


Do you know of anyone local to me that could help?

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big_wasa

posted on 6/12/17 at 07:28 PM Reply With Quote
No Iím afraid not.

But as Iíve spammed your for sale thread I may as well continue.

It really will be basics.

So you had a running driving car that you pulled the engine to fix an oil leak ?

It now turns over but will not start ? Does it try and fire at all ? Did you change anything ?

Where was the leak ? Did you touch the cam timing ? Has it had a cam belt ? New crate engines are now 14 years old so the new belt is also 14 years old.

First would be a visual check. Any loose plugs or wires. Especially anything that can get a tug like the crank sensor. You have a good earth from the battery to chassis and battery to the engine. Give the fusses a check, even swap them over any way.

With a multi meter or even just a bulb, have you got 12v on the center pin of the coil ?
Pull a plug, are you getting a spark ?
When you turn the ignition to run can you here the fuel pump prime for a short time ?
If yes check you have feed and return the right way around, pull the feed and put the pipe in a clear jar or bottle. Turn ignition to run, do you get fuel in the container ?
When cranking are you getting a tacho signal at the dash ?

If your still not running.

Check you have 12v at the ecu.
Break out the laptop and hook it up to the ecu. Will it connect ? Can you see any sensor data. Temperature, Throttle position, Cranking Rpm.

Still not running ?

Check the cam timing. You can get a very good idea with just a clean screwdriver. Undo the timing pin bung, with an 18mm socket on the crank bolt turn clock wise with a clean screwdriver placed in the hole around 50mm until you can feel the crank web touch the screwdriver. There is two slots in the end of the cams, they should be in line so that a 5mm plate would slot in. If the slot is below the head pull the screwdriver out and rotate a further 180 deg. If one is wonky it may have jumped. Just two teeth on one cam would stop it running.

You really can sort this.

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Plunky

posted on 6/12/17 at 07:52 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
No Iím afraid not.

But as Iíve spammed your for sale thread I may as well continue.

It really will be basics.

So you had a running driving car that you pulled the engine to fix an oil leak ?

It now turns over but will not start ? Does it try and fire at all ? Did you change anything ?

Where was the leak ? Did you touch the cam timing ? Has it had a cam belt ? New crate engines are now 14 years old so the new belt is also 14 years old.

First would be a visual check. Any loose plugs or wires. Especially anything that can get a tug like the crank sensor. You have a good earth from the battery to chassis and battery to the engine. Give the fusses a check, even swap them over any way.

With a multi meter or even just a bulb, have you got 12v on the center pin of the coil ?
Pull a plug, are you getting a spark ?
When you turn the ignition to run can you here the fuel pump prime for a short time ?
If yes check you have feed and return the right way around, pull the feed and put the pipe in a clear jar or bottle. Turn ignition to run, do you get fuel in the container ?
When cranking are you getting a tacho signal at the dash ?

If your still not running.

Check you have 12v at the ecu.
Break out the laptop and hook it up to the ecu. Will it connect ? Can you see any sensor data. Temperature, Throttle position, Cranking Rpm.

Still not running ?

Check the cam timing. You can get a very good idea with just a clean screwdriver. Undo the timing pin bung, with an 18mm socket on the crank bolt turn clock wise with a clean screwdriver placed in the hole around 50mm until you can feel the crank web touch the screwdriver. There is two slots in the end of the cams, they should be in line so that a 5mm plate would slot in. If the slot is below the head pull the screwdriver out and rotate a further 180 deg. If one is wonky it may have jumped. Just two teeth on one cam would stop it running.

You really can sort this.


Thank you very much!
I will work through your list and report back!
Thanks again

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