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Author: Subject: Engine oil flush
roadrunner

posted on 22/1/18 at 09:46 AM Reply With Quote
Engine oil flush

My tin top is using 1 litre of oil every 500 miles but the compression is all good.
My mechanic mate said it wouldn't be the pistons and recommended that I give the engine a thorough flush out.
Can someone please recommend a really good quality flush.

Regards

Brad.

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40inches

posted on 22/1/18 at 09:54 AM Reply With Quote
My local garage uses Forte.
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cliftyhanger

posted on 22/1/18 at 10:21 AM Reply With Quote
The oil is either leaking out or getting into the bores.
Valve seals? blue smoke on overrun (do you still get that with a CAT fitted????) or via the rings.
Could be breathers blocked? Puffing out the oil filler if you remove the cap

Not sure what a flush will actually achieve, but you may get lucky. Forte seems to be the one used by many garages...

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perksy

posted on 22/1/18 at 10:32 AM Reply With Quote
If you want to use a flushing oil, use Forte and nothing else imho

Had a mate with a Nissan twin turbo engine and that started smoking (blue smoke) after it had been sat idling for awhile
Compression's were all good and we suspected an oil control ring issue, one can of Forte later and all was well
We may have just been lucky, but it worked...

I'd be checking everything else first though..

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roadrunner

posted on 22/1/18 at 10:33 AM Reply With Quote
The oil isn't leaking out. I would have some large patches on my drive if so.
I had the pcv replaced a year ago and that improved things but the usage has returned.
I do suffer with smoke from exhausts, but to my eyes it is white. Although I am not using any coolant. I was going to video the smoke at the weekend after a good 25 minutes driving but because it was a spirited drive there was no smoke.

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roadrunner

posted on 22/1/18 at 10:36 AM Reply With Quote
I'm hoping it's the control rings that have ceased a little, hence the flushing.
It's a supercharged v6 with 120k on the clock and it's such a fantastic car to drive.

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Mr Whippy

posted on 22/1/18 at 12:34 PM Reply With Quote
I've used Wynn's engine flush for years and the results below - zero vanish or deposits @ 60k


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CosKev3

posted on 22/1/18 at 12:50 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
I'm hoping it's the control rings that have ceased a little, hence the flushing.
It's a supercharged v6 with 120k on the clock and it's such a fantastic car to drive.


Is the charger lubricated with engine oil?

Could it be leaking threw that into the intake system?

A ltr every 500 miles is a massive amount to be burning, surprised the cat/'s aren't knackered tbh

[Edited on 22/1/18 by CosKev3]

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roadrunner

posted on 22/1/18 at 12:56 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
I'm hoping it's the control rings that have ceased a little, hence the flushing.
It's a supercharged v6 with 120k on the clock and it's such a fantastic car to drive.


Is the charger lubricated with engine oil?

Could it be leaking threw that into the intake system?

A ltr every 500 miles is a massive amount to be burning, surprised the cat/'s aren't knackered tbh

[Edited on 22/1/18 by CosKev3]


I'm not sure. Something to look into.

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roadrunner

posted on 22/1/18 at 02:29 PM Reply With Quote
Supercharger is a sealed unit.
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Mr Whippy

posted on 22/1/18 at 05:08 PM Reply With Quote
unless its going on the ground, I can't believe there's no smoke from this. Maybe you should follow the car while someone else drives ans see when it's burning
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steve m

posted on 22/1/18 at 05:23 PM Reply With Quote
I was told many many years ago that "engine flush " is a fancy tin", of a cup full of diesel fuel

and thats what I have put in the oil on every oil change ive done in nearly 40 years

cup full of diesel in the oil, run the engine at idle for 30 mins, wait till its cold, drain and fill with new oil and filter





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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cliftyhanger

posted on 22/1/18 at 06:20 PM Reply With Quote
A good friend works as a forklift engineer, the one "back at base" who gets all the difficult jobs that the others give up on, and engine/gearbox rebuilds.
He reckons draining the oil, refilling with just diesel and then letting the engine tick over fora while cleans an engine out well, and the diesel, mixed with the remains of any oil, is enough to prevent any damage. He has been using it for years, some of his work is warranty stuff on new machines...

He reckons it is good for flushing gearboxes too...

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roadrunner

posted on 22/1/18 at 06:25 PM Reply With Quote
I do normally pour diesel through the engine as a kind of rinse but never started the engine with just diesel. It seems wrong.
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redscamp

posted on 23/1/18 at 01:41 AM Reply With Quote
Has anyone seen the varnish, Sludge, deposits in an engine using a modern oil that a flush is meant to remove?
I had an Allergro A series engine stored from the late 80's what had a crinkley black coating visable through the oil filler cap.
New oil turned black almost immediately, and after two oil changes the rocker box was clean inside.

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roadrunner

posted on 4/2/18 at 07:40 PM Reply With Quote
Well I performed a 40 minute flush today with Forte flush, a Bosch filter and Smith and Allen 5w 30 oil.
I'll keep an eye on the dip stick as my mileage is quite low at the moment.
If this hasn't worked then I think I will be tackling the valve stem oil seals while the heads are still attached.
If anyone has any tips on performing this task it would be gratefully appreciated.
Regards
Brad

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SCAR

posted on 4/2/18 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
For me diesel works as well as any engine flush. Used it for years without a problem
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rusty nuts

posted on 4/2/18 at 08:42 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
Well I performed a 40 minute flush today with Forte flush, a Bosch filter and Smith and Allen 5w 30 oil.
I'll keep an eye on the dip stick as my mileage is quite low at the moment.
If this hasn't worked then I think I will be tackling the valve stem oil seals while the heads are still attached.
If anyone has any tips on performing this task it would be gratefully appreciated.
Regards
Brad


Try a bottle of engine oil stop leak, Wynns, Forte whatever. It make the seals swell slightly helping them to seal

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roadrunner

posted on 4/2/18 at 09:01 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
Well I performed a 40 minute flush today with Forte flush, a Bosch filter and Smith and Allen 5w 30 oil.
I'll keep an eye on the dip stick as my mileage is quite low at the moment.
If this hasn't worked then I think I will be tackling the valve stem oil seals while the heads are still attached.
If anyone has any tips on performing this task it would be gratefully appreciated.
Regards
Brad


Try a bottle of engine oil stop leak, Wynns, Forte whatever. It make the seals swell slightly helping them to seal

Already tried that. ;-))

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dinosaurjuice

posted on 5/2/18 at 10:10 AM Reply With Quote
Don't be fooled by the 'compression is good so it wont be pistons'. Its complete twoddle. The compression is achieved by the top 2 piston rings, oil scraping is done by the oil control or 'scraper' rings. I had a honda CX500 which had amazing compression but drank oil for this very reason.

Hope it isn't the rings, but don't rule it out...

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40inches

posted on 5/2/18 at 11:03 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner


Try a bottle of engine oil stop leak, Wynns, Forte whatever. It make the seals swell slightly helping them to seal

Already tried that. ;-))


I used Forte on the Jag engine, it was smoking(A LOT) on acceleration after over run. Was disappointed at first, but after about
300/400 miles it has stopped completely It does say on the tin that it takes a few hundred miles to work.

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roadrunner

posted on 5/2/18 at 11:29 AM Reply With Quote
This is one of the plugs
[img]http://[/img]

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CosKev3

posted on 5/2/18 at 11:59 AM Reply With Quote
It's definitely burning oil then!
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roadrunner

posted on 5/2/18 at 12:02 PM Reply With Quote
It's finding form which end is the trick.
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roadrunner

posted on 11/2/18 at 09:40 PM Reply With Quote
Been talking to my local mechanic about this problem. Wondered if he would swap my stem oil seals. He was full of useful information. He believes that it is the oil rings that are sticking and causing blow by. He thinks I should persevere with the flushing.
With this in mind I've been reading about this problem and the possible causes. Been driving this weekend in manual mode letting the hover at 6500. I've noticed a difference already vastly improved idle smoke.
Fingers crossed.

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