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Author: Subject: CVH to Zetec
mikeb

posted on 25/6/18 at 09:01 PM Reply With Quote
CVH to Zetec

I'm already planning my modifications, So I have a low mileage black top lined up.

I'm running bike carbs and 3d ignition, I also have a new original Sierra alternator on homemade mount
So what will I need.

Heres my current list:
1. New inlet manifold for the carbs
2. Alternator and brackets? or will I get the old one to fit, noting the oil filter is at the front on zetec at the back not the CVH
3. What thermo housing and pipework - hopefully coolant pipes will be a slight mod as the water pump and thermo housing are ins a similar place
4. 1.8 flywheel or reuse CVH but what about the trigger wheel (its on the front of CVH)
5. New clutch if I keep the flywheel is it just a standard CVH clutch kit, if I change flywheel do I need a 1.8 or 2.0 clutch kit?
6. Exhaust manifold modification plate, or is there a cheaper locost fix?

There might be a bit of resale value on the CVH for a pre 1992 engines with date letter for another builder, with an inlet manifold, so I'd like to keep it intact if it makes sense financially.

I recall some form of mod to the auxiliary belt as I thought something needed to be moved and thus rotated the wrong way, but I can't recall.

Thanks

[Edited on 25/6/18 by mikeb]

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tims31

posted on 26/6/18 at 06:47 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mikeb
I'm already planning my modifications, So I have a low mileage black top lined up.

I'm running bike carbs and 3d ignition, I also have a new original Sierra alternator on homemade mount
So what will I need.

Heres my current list:
1. New inlet manifold for the carbs
2. Alternator and brackets? or will I get the old one to fit, noting the oil filter is at the front on zetec at the back not the CVH
3. What thermo housing and pipework - hopefully coolant pipes will be a slight mod as the water pump and thermo housing are ins a similar place
4. 1.8 flywheel or reuse CVH but what about the trigger wheel (its on the front of CVH)
5. New clutch if I keep the flywheel is it just a standard CVH clutch kit, if I change flywheel do I need a 1.8 or 2.0 clutch kit?
6. Exhaust manifold modification plate, or is there a cheaper locost fix?

There might be a bit of resale value on the CVH for a pre 1992 engines with date letter for another builder, with an inlet manifold, so I'd like to keep it intact if it makes sense financially.

I recall some form of mod to the auxiliary belt as I thought something needed to be moved and thus rotated the wrong way, but I can't recall.

Thanks

[Edited on 25/6/18 by mikeb]


Hi Mike,

I detailed on my build site what I fitted on my Zetec if it helps, sorry but I'm not sure what the differences would be for the CVH.

I fitted a 1.8 Ford Focus MkI 1.8ltr flywheel and Mondeo 1.8ltr Clutch (220mm) 23 Splines on a type 9 Gearbox.

The Water pump rotation can be overcome by using an idler pulley and the belt running on the back of the water pump again details on my build blog

HTH





Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/

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Davedew

posted on 26/6/18 at 12:11 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Mike,

I did this same conversion over the winter, although I started off with a 1.6i CVH engine.

I used the sierra alternator on a new home made bracket for the zetec. Mounted in the same location as on the sierra.
Bottom N/S of engine with an idler pulley.

I used the standard blacktop thermostat housing. Changing the plumbing from the CVH with a FWD thermostat housing was quite straight forward.

I reused my existing flywheel. As I started with a injected engine it already had the timing marks in the back of it.
The 1.6i sierra flywheel on the CVH was the same weight as the focus zetec one, but I used it as I knew clutch fitment was straight forward then.
Clutch kit was standard 1.6i sierra 220mm. Fits perfectly, excellent pedal feel with no slipping as yet!!


If I can be of any help drop me a pm for info, or any pics that may assist you with the conversion

Cheers

Dave





http://s831.photobucket.com/user/davemdew/library/Haynes%20Roadster%20Pictures

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SJ

posted on 26/6/18 at 12:26 PM Reply With Quote
I did exactly what you did so feel free to ask any questions - you are welcome to come and have a look as well if it helps.




1. New inlet manifold for the carbs - had the carbs re-spaced and mounted them on the original ZX6 inlets bolted to 5mm home made manifold plate. A custom inlet would be easier and the carbs would be mounted at a better angle though.

2. Alternator and brackets? or will I get the old one to fit, noting the oil filter is at the front on zetec at the back not the CVH - Bought a Kubota Denso digger alternator off ebay and made a bracket from a bit of angle. This makes lots more space for the oil filter

3. What thermo housing and pipework - hopefully coolant pipes will be a slight mod as the water pump and thermo housing are ins a similar place - All standard thermostat housing on mine with a 32mm chrome Henry Hoover pipe acting as a water rail with some rubber bends to connect up.

4. 1.8 flywheel or reuse CVH but what about the trigger wheel (its on the front of CVH) - I reused the CVH fly both because it is lighter and I'd bought a brand new clutch. I simply took the CVH trigger wheel off the front pulley and mig welded it onto the Zetec front pulley. with a home made up a bracket to mount the pick up to feed the megajolt.

5. New clutch if I keep the flywheel is it just a standard CVH clutch kit, if I change flywheel do I need a 1.8 or 2.0 clutch kit? Standard 1.8 cvh clutch on mine.

6. Exhaust manifold modification plate, or is there a cheaper locost fix? Yes, cheaper! I had a Westfield CVH exhaust and got a Zetec exhaust plate sawn off an old system and welded it onto the westfield CVH manifold plate.

There might be a bit of resale value on the CVH for a pre 1992 engines with date letter for another builder, with an inlet manifold, so I'd like to keep it intact if it makes sense financially.

I recall some form of mod to the auxiliary belt as I thought something needed to be moved and thus rotated the wrong way, but I can't recall. - you need to mount an additional pulley to carry the belt so it runs the water pump properly. I reused an old one that came with the Focus 1.8 zetec I originally bought.

Any Qs feel free to ask.

Also, forgot to say I have subsequently fitted a remote oil filter as I got fed up with having to take the steering shaft off to change the filter, plus I wanted to claw back a bit of oil capacity after cutting the sump down. I'd recommend doing it straight away if you can find another 100.

Stu

[Edited on 26/6/18 by SJ]

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mikeb

posted on 26/6/18 at 12:32 PM Reply With Quote
Some picture would be a great help. I think I moved the alternator to the other side as my NS engine mount is in the forward position as my exhaust manifold blocks the central position, thus taking the standard alternator position a no go. Id be interested how deep the thermo housing is to see if I need to chop anything!

What does she go like? What carbs and jets?

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Ugg10

posted on 26/6/18 at 01:32 PM Reply With Quote
Small but forgettable action - fit spigot bearing in the end of the Zetec crank for the gearbox input shaft, uses the standard Sierra 22mm one, think they are about a fiver iirc.





---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com

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SJ

posted on 26/6/18 at 01:51 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

Some picture would be a great help. I think I moved the alternator to the other side as my NS engine mount is in the forward position as my exhaust manifold blocks the central position, thus taking the standard alternator position a no go. Id be interested how deep the thermo housing is to see if I need to chop anything!

What does she go like? What carbs and jets?



Sure, I'll take some pics of the thermo housing and alternator.

The carbs I have are ZX6R Mikunis. I drilled the jets to 1.6mm and moved the needle up one notch. Goes really well. I've done a few track days and the car seems to be equally as quick as injected Zetecs, though its hard to tell for sure. The best thing with bike carbs is they work so well when not thrashing it. It will pull from just above tick over in 5th. MPG is great too.

A few videos here of the car in action:




Youtube

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Davedew

posted on 26/6/18 at 03:55 PM Reply With Quote
If you built the Haynes chassis to the book then the chassis member closest to the back of the engine may need to be chopped out and dog-legged around the thermo housing.
Having helped a friend previously do the same conversion on another roadster I built my chassis with this dog leg in it.

Currently running GSXR 600 carbs with 170 main jets.
When I had it setup on the rollers (160 main jets) it made 135 BHP at the flywheel and 132 ft/lb torgue.
Exhaust silencer was really restrictive which was holding it back.

I've since chained the silencer for a free-flowing one and the transformation is amazing.

Compared to the CVH the Zetec is like a missile.

[Edited on 26/6/18 by Davedew]





http://s831.photobucket.com/user/davemdew/library/Haynes%20Roadster%20Pictures

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SJ

posted on 26/6/18 at 04:07 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

If you built the Haynes chassis to the book then the chassis member closest to the back of the engine may need to be chopped out and dog-legged around the thermo housing.
Having helped a friend previously do the same conversion on another roadster I built my chassis with this dog leg in it.



The Indy doesn't have much metal in that area!

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mikeb

posted on 26/6/18 at 04:40 PM Reply With Quote
Excellent, my mikuni's are already on 1.6mm jets a notch up on richness so should be a straight swap and maybe try 1.7mm later.

I've no idea if my exhaust if restrictive or not, its a custom chrome silencer I bough on hear a good few years back. Is there a way to check. Or complete the swap and get it on the rollers. It should be putting our around 145 on carbs and reasonable setup?

Thanks

Mike

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Davedew

posted on 26/6/18 at 04:55 PM Reply With Quote
My tuner reckoned around 150 on carbs was about normal for a zetec.

With regards to the exhaust he said 2" straight through was good upto 150 bhp.
2.25" upto about 180bhp
2.5" over 180bhp

He tunes a lot of GT series cars, hill climbers, 300 + horsepower TVR's etc so is pretty good at what he does.





http://s831.photobucket.com/user/davemdew/library/Haynes%20Roadster%20Pictures

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SJ

posted on 26/6/18 at 06:17 PM Reply With Quote
No idea what mine makes - its never been on a rolling road.
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