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Author: Subject: Help with stiff action clutch
AdrianH

posted on 10/7/18 at 09:21 PM Reply With Quote
Help with stiff action clutch

I think the only real answer will be go hydraulic, but here goes:

Type 9 gearbox, Haynes roadster as book foot pedals, I use the standard clutch cable pulled by the pedal, the cable then goes forward along the side of the engine approx 18 inches to 2 feet and then hairpins back to the lever on the side of the type 9. Because it is a relatively sharp 180 bend the pedal is stiff to move, but actuates fine.

I was wondering about a short cable to a bracket on the engine mount. Then a simple lever and solid rod, or cable inner back to the clutch lever, removing the 180 degree bend in the cable but not sure on space or where to get cables made.

The issue is I do not wish to have to remove and split engine and gearbox during driving time.

Any ideas or other that have already solved this issue.

Adrian

[Edited on 11-7-18 by AdrianH]





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HowardB

posted on 10/7/18 at 10:27 PM Reply With Quote
I have a pulley on mine, very simple, light clutch and no additional cable wear,.

hth







Howard

Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)

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AdrianH

posted on 11/7/18 at 06:41 AM Reply With Quote
A pulley as in a wheel style thing?

With the pulley where is it mounted and would I assume just an inner cable no outer, how do you allow for movement between chassis and engine box, I appreciate there is not much movement.

Any pics?

Adrian





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
Build diary at http://www.tamarisktechnicals.com/pages/roadster.html

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HowardB

posted on 11/7/18 at 07:36 AM Reply With Quote
almost no movement between engine and chassis, and although this is a great picture of accident damage, the aluminium pulley can be seen in the background NSF- took most impact
NSF- took most impact

I'll look for a better one





Howard

Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)

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40inches

posted on 11/7/18 at 07:44 AM Reply With Quote
I used a 2:1 ratio lever for the throttle cable on the bike engine. A beefier version should be ok for a clutch?
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AdrianH

posted on 11/7/18 at 05:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by HowardB
almost no movement between engine and chassis, and although this is a great picture of accident damage, the aluminium pulley can be seen in the background NSF- took most impact
NSF- took most impact

I'll look for a better one


I can just about make something out to the front of the engine mount, is that correct oram I looking at the wrong thing?

It looks like a solid tube going to it?

I may have an old cable I can cut down and play with.

Adrian

[Edited on 11-7-18 by AdrianH]





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
Build diary at http://www.tamarisktechnicals.com/pages/roadster.html

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rusty nuts

posted on 11/7/18 at 05:56 PM Reply With Quote
My car has a type nine using a cable operated clutch with no problems with pedal pressure , what engine and clutch are you using?
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Dingz

posted on 11/7/18 at 07:39 PM Reply With Quote
Can you not fit a longer cable so there is a gentler bend in it?





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AdrianH

posted on 11/7/18 at 09:30 PM Reply With Quote
The engine is a 1.8 CVH and clutch , gearbox etc are all standard.

If I remove the cable clean out and lightly lube it is fine for a while and then gets stiffer, also I am starting to have ankle issues so it would be a great help to make it easier.

As it is the cable goes forward of the engine mount and then 180 back and the bends is probably a radio of 2.5 inches that it forms naturally, so I think I end up with steel on steel on the inside I tend to think it has worn through the nylon sheath.

So keeping the cable short and trying a lever or similar system where I can can adjust the pivot point could help me a lot.

Adrian

[Edited on 11-7-18 by AdrianH]





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
Build diary at http://www.tamarisktechnicals.com/pages/roadster.html

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rusty nuts

posted on 12/7/18 at 05:29 PM Reply With Quote
If lubricating the cable helps for a while I would suspect the cable has worn the outer casing , a new cable is about a tenner . If you want to try a different length Burtonpowers catalogue used to list details.
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AdrianH

posted on 12/7/18 at 09:28 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
Build diary at http://www.tamarisktechnicals.com/pages/roadster.html

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