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Author: Subject: BEC ?
Cluelesstom

posted on 4/9/18 at 08:44 AM Reply With Quote
BEC ?

Hello guys, I have been toying with the idea of fitting a 1.8t into my kit car but I’ve been thinking about a hayabusa engine,
I would be buying the whole bike as the donor, I was wondering if anyone who has done this can give me any heads up to the problems I’m going to encounter.
I have a Haynes roadster with a pinto currently.
I was also wondering how to go about making some mounts, and how to get from the gearbox to the diff , current one being Sierra running gear.
Thanks!

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kj

posted on 4/9/18 at 09:26 AM Reply With Quote
I went from 1700 xflow to Kawasaki zx9.
Are you making the engine cradle etc or buying.





Think about it, think about it again and then do it.

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Cluelesstom

posted on 4/9/18 at 10:07 AM Reply With Quote
Not too sure, I’ve seen some solid brackets made on the Internet, how much would a cradle cost me?
And also with mounting you aboviously get the gearbox in-line with the prop? That’s why the engines are so offset right?
That’s my only worry really is mounting.

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hughpinder

posted on 4/9/18 at 10:42 AM Reply With Quote
Here is a list of what to consider:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/9/viewthread.php?tid=90943

Regards
Hugh

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Cluelesstom

posted on 4/9/18 at 11:04 AM Reply With Quote
cracking cheers mate
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kj

posted on 4/9/18 at 02:54 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by hughpinder
Here is a list of what to consider:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/9/viewthread.php?tid=90943

Regards
Hugh


Mine was solid mount go the engine into position with the sprocket adapter(most have the same amount of splines) in place and made sure it was in line to the diff. Made up the cradle with the engine as far back as possible, get your engine on the same angle as it was in the bike.
You will need to remove/bypass the wiring for the side stand, drop switch.





Think about it, think about it again and then do it.

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CosKev3

posted on 4/9/18 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
You don't want the prop adapter directly in line with the diff,universal joints need to operate on slight angles, if you run them straight they will soon knacker up
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Cluelesstom

posted on 4/9/18 at 04:50 PM Reply With Quote
Wow thanks, keep feeding me all the information!
When you say far back you mean to the rear of the car?

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CosKev3

posted on 4/9/18 at 04:56 PM Reply With Quote
In a seven type BEC you want the engine as far forward as possible,as they are very light on the front end.
Obvs need to take into consideration where the exhaust manifold will be,for clearance from the wheels on full lock
Have a read up on the oil system for a Busa in a car too,ideally you want a dry sump system to be as safe as possible,but if for road use people get away with swinging pick ups and modified wet sump.

[Edited on 4/9/18 by CosKev3]

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Cluelesstom

posted on 4/9/18 at 06:03 PM Reply With Quote
I shall have a read on that, does the clutch take the abuse of the weight or is that something that will need sorting?
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Cluelesstom

posted on 4/9/18 at 06:08 PM Reply With Quote
As for the sump will it need shortening? I suppose you want to mount it as low as possible.
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CosKev3

posted on 4/9/18 at 06:15 PM Reply With Quote
Not 100% sure on a busa, but most bike engine standard sumps need replacing with a BEC one.
You need to get the height of the engine as close to bonnet as possible,to give yourself as much ground clearance as possible between sump and road, a dry sump helps here as it can be much smaller and flat.

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Cluelesstom

posted on 4/9/18 at 06:29 PM Reply With Quote
Okay sweet cheers bud, might skip on the dry sump until abit later as they seem to be around 1k+
Just need to finish the old mans little Landy project then out with the pinto!
Thanks for the pointers. !

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CosKev3

posted on 4/9/18 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
A Busa conversion is not cheap,even high mileage bikes are 3-4 grand before you start with buying the parts to fit into a car.
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Cluelesstom

posted on 4/9/18 at 08:41 PM Reply With Quote
any other bike engines you can suggest with a decent output?
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Cluelesstom

posted on 4/9/18 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
Not in a mad rush so i can try and pick some cheap ones off, just need to do loads of research as most of it was into the other car engine..
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perksy

posted on 4/9/18 at 10:00 PM Reply With Quote
*If* you do decide to use the Busa engine see the use of a dry sump set up as an insurance policy

As said above they aren't a cheap option and its expensive if it all goes pearshaped

Personally not a fan of bike engines in a 7 but some owners get them to work really well

Depends on what you intend to use the car for in the long run

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Cluelesstom

posted on 5/9/18 at 06:21 PM Reply With Quote
Just after a toy to be honest, something that’s loud and fast, not going to do many miles.
Plan is for some track days, always tinkering so reliability isn’t key.

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snapper

posted on 5/9/18 at 06:41 PM Reply With Quote
Andy Bates (AB Perfomance) can give you the heads up in clutch modifications required
Updated springs mainly but may need a change of plates and drive discs





I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

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billy

posted on 5/9/18 at 08:22 PM Reply With Quote
I would stick with a car engine! Those bike engine cars just haven’t got the sheer grunt for the road :-) just my own opinion ( age old argument)





luego-lo-cost finished,vauxhall 16v 2.0,twin 45s de-dion rear set up

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Cluelesstom

posted on 6/9/18 at 07:50 AM Reply With Quote
Could do with experiencing a bike engine one to be honest, in the West Midlands if anyone doesn’t mind? :-)
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Cluelesstom

posted on 11/9/18 at 07:55 AM Reply With Quote
Hello, another question, I know obviously the bike engine are hard mounted would it be beneficial to add some rubber mounts or bushing to my home made engine cradle?
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motorcycle_mayhem

posted on 11/9/18 at 08:59 AM Reply With Quote
Westfield do things with a simple top frame, bolted to each corner of the engine bay, with the centre dropping down a bracket to the crankcase. Bottom frame is less complex, a planar triangle, simply supporting the lower crankcase. It works.

Picture is my GSXR1000 installation in a Westfield. The car has gone, but the engine and installation kit (ECU, exhaust, etc.) largely remain. It's potentially available if you're interested, but not cheaply, plenty of 'that sort of stuff' out there.



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40inches

posted on 11/9/18 at 09:31 AM Reply With Quote
I had a ZX9R E in mine, cracking engine and only a few hundred quid, not thousands.
I swapped it for a Jag 3litre V6. love the Jag engine, miss the bike engine
Loads of photos in my archive

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Move the video on to around 8:40 to cut out the boring bits


[Edited on 11-9-18 by 40inches]

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Cluelesstom

posted on 11/9/18 at 11:16 AM Reply With Quote
cheers guys, I’ve already got the bike I want in mind, just trying to get my head around mounting it, as far as your pictures go it seems to be box section running in a square to each corner like you said, and then a triangle pointing down towards the floor and then across to the bottom of the chassis? I’ll try draw something out later
Thanks

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