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Author: Subject: St170 vvt cam timing help
Bamo

posted on 16/8/19 at 06:33 AM Reply With Quote
St170 vvt cam timing help

Hi, I've got an st170 Engine that needs timing up, the head is currently off but tried locking in the Timed position position who gb removed and only the exhaust cam lined up, Is this due to the vvt being wrong? I don't know if I should fit it back this way incase it was wrong? I've heard mixed opinions on timing the vvt. I understand the timing bar and crank pin, it's just the vvt advance/retard bit? And help kindly appreciated.
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FamilyGuy

posted on 16/8/19 at 08:44 AM Reply With Quote
I changed the timing belt on my st170 engine (first one I've done so I'm no expert). When reading up on it before I did the job I found loads of reports of problems with the vvt not lining up after setting it and turning the engine over a few turns. My engine had just come out of the donor and it was running fine so I didn't loosen the cam pulleys off when I did the job. The inlet cam needed a bit of force to turn it back against the oil pressure to line it up using the alignment tool but once in and the belt was fitted everything was fine. Everything lined up nicely and no vvt issues flagged up once the engine was running.
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Bamo

posted on 16/8/19 at 09:42 AM Reply With Quote
So your cams didn't align perfect when you tried to lock them? It's made me wonder if the engine was timed correctly previously?
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FamilyGuy

posted on 16/8/19 at 10:07 AM Reply With Quote
I think because of the oil pressure in the vvt solenoid it causes the inlet cam to rotate when the old belt was removed. So when I put the locking plate in I had to use a bit of force to rotate the inlet cam pulley back round so that to plate would align with the slot with the exhaust cam already aligned.
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Bamo

posted on 16/8/19 at 12:37 PM Reply With Quote
Sadly I never Don this so have to suss it out
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big_wasa

posted on 16/8/19 at 03:28 PM Reply With Quote
The vvt pulley is sprung so should return to its home position when not running.

The problem is,
Getting the bolt up to torque with out the centre of the pulley turning on the cam. You canít use the timing bar to hold the cams as you will take a chunk out of the end of the cam and the centre will still rotate on the cam. You canít get the peg style tool into the pulley and even if you can the centre will still rotate. There are no flats on the cam to get a spanner on and if you can see above.

Itís why a lot of people recommend not disturbing it. Not a lot of use when you have.

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Bamo

posted on 16/8/19 at 04:57 PM Reply With Quote
Thank you, is your car an mk indy? Is so mines going in one the same
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40inches

posted on 16/8/19 at 05:15 PM Reply With Quote
If you can get easy access to the front of the engine, the way I have always done a cam belt change is to cut the belt in half,longways.
Them remove the front half, fit the new belt up to the back half, remove back half of belt and push the new belt in all the way.
Done about 5 using this method. So far so good.
Doesn't help you at this moment though.

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big_wasa

posted on 16/8/19 at 06:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bamo
Thank you, is your car an mk indy? Is so mines going in one the same


Yep I currently have an Indy, itís going turbo.. it better be worth it as itís a pain in the arse squeezing it all in.

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Bamo

posted on 16/8/19 at 08:38 PM Reply With Quote
Nice, considered this as I use to have a zt in a mk3 escort, loved it. Got this now so St on bike bodies, raised compression and me221, hopefully go well
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