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Author: Subject: Front and Rear Brakes
Jonb_5

posted on 16/11/19 at 04:03 PM Reply With Quote
Front and Rear Brakes

I am finally looking to buy some brakes for my build and wanted some advice if possible.

I have decided the car will not be road going, I will trailer to events and track so wondered the best brakes to put on it.

I'm think 8" drums at the back and some sort of 4 pot calipers at the front....

I don't want to go mad cost wise so any recommendations and suppliers??

I've got the 8" back plates for the rear axle but where would be best to get drums and pads etc.

Thanks

Jon

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rusty nuts

posted on 16/11/19 at 04:59 PM Reply With Quote
A lot will depend on what front uprights you are using?
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Jonb_5

posted on 16/11/19 at 05:27 PM Reply With Quote
I am pretty sure they are Cortina....
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Jonb_5

posted on 18/11/19 at 08:40 AM Reply With Quote
These are the uprights I have, if anyone could identify?

Description
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Description
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Also, I have a set of callipers which to be honest I think I am going to upgrade for some Wilwood ones, does anyone know what these are and if they might have any value second hand?

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Thoughts on the Wilwood caliper?

https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=562_588&products_id=10686

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JAG

posted on 18/11/19 at 03:55 PM Reply With Quote
Ford Cortina uprights.

Lucas Girling M16 calipers with a bridge spacer for the ventilated disc.

Thoughts on the calipers; Wilwood calipers will be lighter but will give a spongier pedal than the Cast Iron M16's. M16's have a 54mm piston diameter - get Wilwoods with the same piston area or you will upset the brake balance. While you don't care about being road legal upsetting the balance of the braking system can cause the car to be unstable under braking and could cause the car to spin off track if the rears lock first.

A pair of M16's in that condition are probably worth less than 20.

[Edited on 18/11/19 by JAG]





Justin


Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!

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Jonb_5

posted on 18/11/19 at 09:15 PM Reply With Quote
That's awesome thank you.

The other option could be hi-spec calipers which seem to have decent reviews and appears you can get them to bolt straight to the uprights....

Thank you!!

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JimSpencer

posted on 19/11/19 at 08:12 AM Reply With Quote
Personally I'd simply have those calipers rebuilt (Brake Engineering or similar), put some good pads in there and get on with it. IMHO that's more than an adequate brake set up for track use on a 'seven' unless you're looking at serious competition

If the Latter:-
Firstly - Upgrade All Round or not at all - Disc conversion on the rear etc.
Next - You'll find plenty of posts on plenty of forums chatting about Flex in 'insert name here' alloy calipers, now can't say I've experienced it myself as it's either been good pads in standard calipers or AP, (and if you Google something like AP CP7613 and compare the pictures it might illustrate) but if you are planning on competing then I'd still suggest it's upgraded pads in 'Stock Stuff' or go the whole hog and straight to pukka 'Race Stuff'.. IMHO I'd avoid the middle ground, so you Know where you are.

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Jonb_5

posted on 19/11/19 at 03:05 PM Reply With Quote
Thank you for the advice.

I think for the cost of it, may be worth sticking to the standard ones for now and even if I decide in future to upgrade its just a bolt on solution anyway so no major hassle to change.

Definitely food for though.

Thanks

Jon

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JAG

posted on 19/11/19 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
I have the standard M16's with standard pads on the front axle plus 8" drumbrakes on the rear axle.

The only upgrade I made was to increase the wheel cylinder diameter in the rear drumbrakes. Standard was 19.05 mm (3/4" ) and I increased them to 20.64 mm (13/16" ).

[Edited on 19/11/19 by JAG]





Justin


Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!

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Jonb_5

posted on 1/12/19 at 08:21 PM Reply With Quote
I am after a bit more advise on what master cylinder / cylinders to run??

I have the option to run a single or make some modifications and run a split system but no idea if this is worth it?

Thanks in advance for the suggestions, just need to get something ordered so I can finish up with the pedal box.

Thanks

Jon

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Jonb_5

posted on 2/12/19 at 10:00 AM Reply With Quote
I have done some research and Fiat 124 cylinder keeps cropping up?

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Jon

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JAG

posted on 2/12/19 at 10:33 AM Reply With Quote
I would go with a Tandem Master Cylinder - I did on my own car.

Twin Master Cylinders do work and are road legal, if they're modified to lock the balance bar setting, but it seems like an extra level of Faff for no actual advantage.

I've heard people use the Fiat 124 and maybe a Fiesta Master Cylinder.

Personally I used a Nissan Micra Booster/Master Cylinder from a 2000'ish car. The Booster means I can use a relatively large diameter Master Cylinder and still keep pedal efforts reasonably low.





Justin


Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!

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