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Author: Subject: Throttle peddle/cable connections ?
Deckman001

posted on 13/2/20 at 03:27 PM Reply With Quote
Throttle peddle/cable connections ?

Hi All,

I need to make a decent connection between my throttle cable and the pedal bar.

I am using a pedal box that for the throttle, it gives a straight bar that sticks up into the engine bay, this bar swivels from below so just pivots forward and backwards like it needs to.
My throttle cable comes from the bike carbs and has a cut cable end that i need a locost way to fix it to the pedal.

What have others used, and is there a cheap kit for this, my temporary way to use a terminal strip isn't a great way to leave it lol

Jason

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Schrodinger

posted on 13/2/20 at 04:11 PM Reply With Quote
I've used somthing like this
https://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport-ancillaries/sytec-twin-throttle-cable-pedal-block.html
on the pedal, I would then use a cycle cable end to stop it pulling through.

[Edited on 13/2/20 by Schrodinger]





Keith

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Deckman001

posted on 13/2/20 at 04:21 PM Reply With Quote
That's interesting,, ,, I'll look into that idea, cheers

Jason

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jps

posted on 13/2/20 at 04:36 PM Reply With Quote
I was reading up on this recently. Lots of people mentioned using a 'choc-bloc' electrical connector (the same as a terminal strip?) to secure a loop as a their permanent solution. I guess there's not exactly a lot of force going through the accelerator cable.

Bicycle gear and brake cables usually just clamp with a grooved washer that bolts down to secure the cable, and I expect the forces are higher in that setup than for operating a carb?

[Edited on 13/2/20 by jps]

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TimC

posted on 13/2/20 at 06:41 PM Reply With Quote
Is it c.10mm round bar?

Iíve previously cut a pedal-bar like this down to an appropriate length, drilled and tapped for a small male rod end (M4/5 - canít recall) and then used a clevis with a small hole for the cable with soldered end on pull and and screw down nipple the other side to stop it from even slopping about. Clevis is bolted to rod-end; rotates smoothly.

TC






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Myke 2463

posted on 14/2/20 at 08:12 AM Reply With Quote
Much better than terminal block, eBay item number:184014982278





Be Lucky Mike.

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JeffHs

posted on 14/2/20 at 03:39 PM Reply With Quote
I've fitted a hard pedal stop so I can't break the cable end again after an overtaking embarrassment when with wide open throttle the solderless nipple let go and the engine dropped to idle. Ooops!
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Deckman001

posted on 14/2/20 at 04:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Is it c.10mm round bar?

Iíve previously cut a pedal-bar like this down to an appropriate length, drilled and tapped for a small male rod end (M4/5 - canít recall) and then used a clevis with a small hole for the cable with soldered end on pull and and screw down nipple the other side to stop it from even slopping about. Clevis is bolted to rod-end; rotates smoothly.

TC


Yes I think it is.

So, I have drilled through the bar at the height it comes out of the bracket in front of it, and so far have just threaded it through and used a terminal strip piece to lock it off.

Am i right in thinking that i could now cut the bar just above the drilled hole, and then drill down into the top of the bar so that this new hole that is to be 'tapped' bottoms out at the cross drilled point, and then i could use a bolt to lock the cable to the pedal and maybe lock nut the bolt for good measure ?

Jason

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Deckman001

posted on 14/2/20 at 04:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JeffHs
I've fitted a hard pedal stop so I can't break the cable end again after an overtaking embarrassment when with wide open throttle the solderless nipple let go and the engine dropped to idle. Ooops!


Eek,

Thankfully the slot i cut in the foot well top for the pedal rod to pass up into is the exact travel of the cable originally bought, What a lucky first attempt I hope !!

That and the bike throttle bodies have full travel lock points so can't be over extended, I just need to make sure the tension is kept correct hopefully.

Jason

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jps

posted on 14/2/20 at 04:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Deckman001
quote:
Originally posted by TimC
Is it c.10mm round bar?

Iíve previously cut a pedal-bar like this down to an appropriate length, drilled and tapped for a small male rod end (M4/5 - canít recall) and then used a clevis with a small hole for the cable with soldered end on pull and and screw down nipple the other side to stop it from even slopping about. Clevis is bolted to rod-end; rotates smoothly.

TC


Yes I think it is.

So, I have drilled through the bar at the height it comes out of the bracket in front of it, and so far have just threaded it through and used a terminal strip piece to lock it off.

Am i right in thinking that i could now cut the bar just above the drilled hole, and then drill down into the top of the bar so that this new hole that is to be 'tapped' bottoms out at the cross drilled point, and then i could use a bolt to lock the cable to the pedal and maybe lock nut the bolt for good measure ?

Jason


Sounds like it - but that sounds like it would cause the cable to flex at the end where it is clamped, and eventually snap. That was the main reason I knocked up a little clevis arrangement. If the limits of the travel were set I think a crimp end on the cable would allow a clevis to be used (assuming you can't just pop the clevis on the wire then put a blob of weld on the end to make it too big for the hole you've pulled it through...

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MikeR

posted on 15/2/20 at 05:08 PM Reply With Quote
Could someone post pictures to this thread. I'm struggling to Imagine what is being described.
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Deckman001

posted on 21/2/20 at 02:27 PM Reply With Quote
Here it is, sorry, still trying to work out best way to post pics.

Jason

Throttle connection
Throttle connection

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