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Author: Subject: Duratec info required
snapper

posted on 8/3/20 at 09:16 AM Reply With Quote
Duratec info required

I am getting closer to actually having to start real engine work on the 2.0L Duratec from a Fiesta ST.
I know little about Duratec as I spent most of my building Pintoís.

What I know...
You shouldnít skim the head
You can only over bore the liners by 0.5mm
The rods and pistons are marginal above 200bhp (assume 8000rpm)
Itís prudent to key the crank
No. 4 main is the first one to be starved of oil and therefore is usually the one that gives up first.

Thatís it, tell me more please.





I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

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RussH

posted on 8/3/20 at 08:03 PM Reply With Quote
The Conrods are fracture rods, so if you split them, you should really replace them.

Many people say donít take std rods and pistons above 7250. I pushed my luck and ran mine to 7500. I donít think they can take 8000.

[Edited on 8/3/20 by RussH]





Duratec Westfield

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flak monkey

posted on 11/3/20 at 07:14 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by RussH
The Conrods are fracture rods, so if you split them, you should really replace them.

Many people say donít take std rods and pistons above 7250. I pushed my luck and ran mine to 7500. I donít think they can take 8000.

[Edited on 8/3/20 by RussH]


Rods are fine reused, but yes, 7500rpm is the absolute limit on them.

Crank keying is a good idea, but not all that necessary, fit a new crank bolt and do it up properly. Theres not much load on the pulley in a kit compared to a normal car.

Fit HD rod and crank bearings. The main reason for failure was the soft rubbish standard ones. Dont use thick oil, that's the other cause of issues. A good 5W30 or 0W30 is fine, use synthetic.

I have the ford assembly manual for the engine somewhere if you want it.





Sera

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FuryRebuild

posted on 11/3/20 at 12:08 PM Reply With Quote
it's also a pretty good engine to just bolt together, if you're replacing like for like bearings, etc. If you do split the rod big ends, be sure you put them back in exactly the same orientation - as russH said -they're fractured, not machined.

You'll need a gated sump as well - you're changing orientation. I built one of Flak's and they're a great design.





When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.

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snapper

posted on 11/3/20 at 05:59 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

I have the ford assembly manual for the engine somewhere if you want it.



flak that would be useful if you can spare it Ta

I am considering Supercharging as an option and have been told a set of 2.3 pistons will drop in with a hone!
I would look at replacing the rods what ever I do but will take advice on this





I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

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flak monkey

posted on 16/3/20 at 10:53 AM Reply With Quote
The ford manual is here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1--XKLmbB5YBgtbPSO3cIfxuBpCRLENiH

I'd recommend forged rods and pistons if you are going forced induction...

The 2.3 pistons are the same bore size, it's the crank stroke and rod length which is different between the 2 engines.





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