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Author: Subject: Newbie - Zetec mods
Mark O

posted on 15/10/20 at 12:15 PM Reply With Quote
Newbie - Zetec mods

Greetings all

First thing to state is that I do not have a Locost. Rather a highly modified 1971 MG Midget with a 2 litre Ford Zetec 16v Blacktop (from year 2000) up front. I'd post a pic, but cannot see how! I contest the problems are therefore very similar to Locost builders though, and I do have the book!

I digress....Previously the Zetec was mated to a 32/36 DGAV. It worked very well, but in the enternal quest for more performance, I have since ordered the 40mm bike carb kit from DanST engineering. As such, a few Qs if I may....

Is there a need to re-jet? I guess it may be a case of suck it and see - literally!
Carbs come with TPS - is this simply a case of wiring this in back to the ECU - which is an early NoDiz by the by...
Throttle pedal is now a fairly short travel from closed butterfly to fully open. Any recommendations as to how to lengthen the travel? Don't want to just touch it and take off...
Anthing else I should be aware of?

All and any assistance is gratefully received

Many thanks

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Mash

posted on 15/10/20 at 06:54 PM Reply With Quote
I have bought some Zx9Rcarbs and am doing the up myself, but I think......

I think, from memory that they will put appropriate jets in the carbs as part of the deal.

TPS I think is connected to the ECU, but I'm guessing here.

To cure the throttle issue you could make a larger radius quadrant and that will cure the travel issue.

Nothing else I can think of at the moment.

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40inches

posted on 15/10/20 at 07:50 PM Reply With Quote
I knocked up a 2 to 1 mid cable watsit, made the throttle very nice
Description
Description

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cliftyhanger

posted on 16/10/20 at 06:01 AM Reply With Quote
If you spoke with the supplier, they should supply the carbs with jets that will work, but as always it is very wise to get it checked on a rolling road once running. ie if it runs rich, no real issue unless plugs foul and cost of extra fuel. Ifit goes lean at high rpm, very bad news.
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Mark O

posted on 16/10/20 at 07:36 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks all for the replies...I do like the 2 to 1 cable wotsit. Good use of the lever law! May be struggling with room, but certainly an idea. Jets - well they "should" be fine according to DanST literature and I do not intend to rev the nuts off it...mind the temptation may be too great to resist. I'll keep an eye on plug colour after running about a while.

I trust their pump and filter as supplied are fine. No pressure regulator required?

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chris

posted on 16/10/20 at 05:27 PM Reply With Quote
top supplier Danst as long as you have supplied details of your set up it should be jetted to suit but as above every engine runs slightly differently so a rolling road session will get the best from your set up and if you have got a bike pump from Danst then no regulator required but to get it at least drivable you will need to balance the carbs which is easy on bike carbs
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Mark O

posted on 16/10/20 at 05:34 PM Reply With Quote
Pretty sure DanST balance the carbs beforehand. I have a Facet pump and regulator already in situ. Will adjust to 2 psi with a pressure gauge so perhaps no need for the bike pump they supplied.

I am a biker, and have restored many a Jap 4. I can tell you balancing 4 carbs ain't that easy!

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chris

posted on 16/10/20 at 05:59 PM Reply With Quote
having set up many bike carb conversions balancing the carbs with my four gauge setup is the easy part getting the throttle to return quickly and getting a good mixture is hard and yes Danst does balance and jet the carbs but as in above post every engine runs differently and will still require balancing and jetting adjustment and idle mixture adjustment and if you have a bike pump i would use it

[Edited on 16/10/20 by chris]

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Mark O

posted on 17/10/20 at 07:10 PM Reply With Quote
I don't understand the logic of using the supplied bike pump when I could use my existing pump/regulator set to the correct pressure. It would save an awful lot of work.
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40inches

posted on 17/10/20 at 10:40 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark O
I don't understand the logic of using the supplied bike pump when I could use my existing pump/regulator set to the correct pressure. It would save an awful lot of work.


Using a car pump and reg has caused flooding problems with bike carbs, I know it shouldn't, but it has
Bike pumps are plug and go and easy to fit.

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Mark O

posted on 18/10/20 at 08:14 PM Reply With Quote
If you set the pressure correctly at the regulator, I don't see why it should cause flooding. I would have thought that is a problem with the floats or their seats.

The Chinese bike pump supplied would for sure be an easy fit, but I would have to rip out all the existing stuff and re-route quite a bit of fuel line. If I set the pressure correctly I cannot see any reason why I should not continue with the existing set up. Decent pump and regulator fitted. No trouble at all after 10 years service.

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big_wasa

posted on 19/10/20 at 11:17 AM Reply With Quote
Lots of people have had problems getting enough flow at 1.5~2psi.
Hence why bike pumps are popular. My preference is the modern equivalent to the old SU pump. Made by Huco and distributed by Webcon.

Others have used regulators with out issue.

The question is, how much harder will it be once its built and playing up

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Mark O

posted on 19/10/20 at 12:38 PM Reply With Quote
Ok - If flow rather than pressure is the issue that is a different matter. Understood and thanks.
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