swood
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posted on 21/2/05 at 08:37 PM |
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Shortened Pinto Sump Leak Cure ?
I have finally cut & shut my sump, and extended the front out slightly to replace the lost oil capacity rather than weld a box on the side as per
the Ro** Ho** web site method.
I had it MIG welded by our welder ( We don't do TIG which would have been preferable) who made a tidy job, and after grinding out a couple of
minor leaks & re welding it appears water tight when filled and left overnight on newspaper.
However having read all the threads on sump leaks and the best cures I thought I would try to pre-empt any future problems before fitting it.
I contacted Wynn's to see what they would recommend (www.wynns.uk.com) a technical guy rang back and after some discussion he suggested going
over the welded seams (after degreasing & Cleaning) with 'Hard as Steel ' an epoxy putty, before painting it.
I seem to remember this was recommended by some one else as a solution.
The shortened pick up is 8mm from the bottom of the sump, having checked with the bluetac method.
Next up is a modified plenum chamber !
I hope to put some photo's on, but am not that good with the bloody computers
PS why's the weather cold now Ive got the urge again !!
When you're up to your ass in alligators you tend to forget the initial objective was to drain the swamp !.
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David Jenkins
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posted on 21/2/05 at 08:47 PM |
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With one of my sumps I got a friend with an oxy-acetylene set to run a braze fillet round the inside of the weld.
David
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stevebubs
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posted on 21/2/05 at 09:22 PM |
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I brazed mine, too
BTW a top tip I was given recently was to test for leaks using parafin - apparently it will seep through smaller holes than water.
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flak monkey
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posted on 21/2/05 at 09:48 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by stevebubs
I brazed mine, too
BTW a top tip I was given recently was to test for leaks using parafin - apparently it will seep through smaller holes than water.
It will yes...so will petrol (expensive and smelly though). Its just because it has a lower surface tension than water, meaning it will go through a
smaller hole.
Some of that epoxy putty is good stuff. Dont know about the price of that now though.
I would agree that brazing would be a good solution. (Seems logical to me anyway). Obviously (as you said) TIG welding first off would be the best way
to go.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Mark Allanson
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posted on 21/2/05 at 10:00 PM |
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I migged mine and it didn't leak so no need to braze, but I agree that it is a good method. Epoxy putty ? is it oil resistant over a long period
of time, and if it became unstuck, the damage would be catastrophic
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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David Jenkins
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posted on 22/2/05 at 08:22 AM |
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I MIG'd my second attempt, using the lessons I learned on the first attempt. I found it much easier to have a substantial metal plate as a base
(1.6mm) making it easier to weld the very thin sump metal onto it without burning holes.
See website for details! (it's in there somewhere...)
David
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