Avoneer
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| posted on 14/3/05 at 11:43 PM |
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Shaping anges on the "L" section
Anyone any tips for cutting the compound angles for the front "L" section pieces...
I'm a bit foncused...
Pat...
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dmottaway
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| posted on 14/3/05 at 11:53 PM |
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I used a CAD program to draw the tubes, but spread out as if you were making a patern in sheet metal. as if you split it down one corner, then
flattened out.
print it out and then cut out the pattern. you can then fold it up to make a paper "L" tube which will slide over the actual steel tube.
use the pattern to mark the steel tube.
this helped me maintain the proper orientation of the angles.
I used a standard hack saw, then dressed it with a belt sander. but be careful with the dressing part, it is easy to muck it up.
would be wise to do the "L" tubes first. if you screw up, they are still good for "H" tubes!
dave
[Edited on 14/3/05 by dmottaway]
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clbarclay
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 12:01 AM |
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I used an angle finder (wooden handle with swinging steel blade clamped up by wing nut) to get the angles, and marked round all 4 sides of RHS with
correct angle.
I then used hacksaw/bench grinder to shape the RHS.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 12:17 AM |
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How do you know which sides which angles go on?
Not got a CAD program, but that sounds like a good idea.
Pat...
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niceperson709
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 02:34 AM |
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Thought about this a lot and the crucial thing about the front assembly is that the two uprights are square to the center line so that the suspension
brackets will be square . My idea is to use 1 inch round for the top and bottom of the front assembly and then the angles on the L tubes become simple
and all you need to do is fish mouth the ends to match the round tubes . Like wise the top and bottom main tubes on the frame need to be scolloped to
suit the round tubes on the front assembly . I struggled to do it by the book and eventually managed to do it but the method I have described would
have saved heaps of time as the front assembly could be made flat, on the base board .
best wishes
Iain 
Best wishes IAIN
life is not the rehearsal , it's the show so don't sit there thinking about it DO IT NOW
http://iainseven.wordpress.com/
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Mix
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 08:29 AM |
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My method using your new toy
Arrange a horizontal platform in front of the linishing belt suffidiently large to support the upright members of the 'L' assembly, (one
at a time).
Set the angle of the belt to equal the angle of slope of the 'L' assembly from front to back.
Mark the sloping outward angles onto the 'L' uprights and saw as close to size as you feel comfortable with.
Lay 'Ls' onto the platform and linish to dimension being careful to keep the correct relationship between the two ends.
Hope this makes sense, basically you are using the linisher to automatically set the front to rear slope angle whilst you control the outward slope
angle visually as you linish.
Mick
[Edited on 15/3/05 by Mix]
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Peteff
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 11:14 AM |
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I got it to within 1/16" and filled the gap with weld. I thought after it would have been alright to make it flat and cut a simple angle on the
ends of the side rails to give it a slope.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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James
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 11:29 AM |
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Just use some very simple Trigonometry to work out the angle of each cut. Then cut each face of the tube individually- worked for me!*
HTH,
James
EDIT: *Worked for me, that is, on the 3rd attempt. The first two attempts were one cut/cut to fit attempts and were really wrong! Once I'd
given in to the call of Maths and worked it out all was ok.
[Edited on 15/3/05 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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clbarclay
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 11:36 AM |
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McSorley plans should give acurate dimensions of finished L tubes.
I also clamped top and bottom tubes down square to each other and use a degree of reshaping the side L to fit.
Make sure, if you don't already know the sides of the LA and LB tubes need to be square withe the rest of the chassis, not the front faces.
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Mix
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 12:30 PM |
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Make sure, if you don't already know the sides of the LA and LB tubes need to be square withe the rest of the chassis, not the front faces
Err.... I think you'll find that the LA & LB tubes should be parallel to the chassis centreline and thus square to LC & LD.
Or have I misunderstood your post?
Mick
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clbarclay
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 02:07 PM |
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Miss interpreted/read it I think, then again it probably was not well worded on my part. I think you have probably worded it better.
"LA & LB tubes should be parallel to the chassis centreline"
The sides where the suspension brakets weld on.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 06:47 PM |
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the help.
Gave up in the end with the angle thing and resorted to cardboard.
Clamped LC to the desk and LD 13" away (parallel) and 3" higher.
Made a tube out of cardboard and cut it to fit.
Slid it round a tube.
Cut the bar on each side with a hacksaw.
Levelled off with my belt sander.
Perfect fit.
Pat...
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dmottaway
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 09:02 PM |
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do I get credit for suggesting the paper tube?
dave
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Avoneer
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| posted on 15/3/05 at 09:51 PM |
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Yep, full credit for the paper idea.
But I did it without CAD - jut a pair of scissors.
Do I get credit for that?
Pat...
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However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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