barraw
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 posted on 4/4/05 at 07:10 PM |
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x-flow water in oil
hi, each weekend when i get the westfield out, theres always water in the oil. I've pressure tested the cooling system and it holds pressure.
I've changed the head gasket, water pump gasket and inlet manifold gasket. the car runs great, i just get the oily water milk in the filler cap
all the time, and steam coming out of the breather. Help, please!!! it's been driving me nuts since i bought the car 18 months ago.
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berkut
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| posted on 4/4/05 at 07:13 PM |
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There might be a crack in the block or head
Hoses streach and work as pressure accumulators
[Edited on 4/4/05 by berkut]
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gjs
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| posted on 4/4/05 at 07:21 PM |
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I think its to do with condensation,when the engine gets hot?if its only the filler cap,not expansion bottle thats creamy!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 4/4/05 at 07:23 PM |
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That's bad news!
1. There is one place in the X-Flow engine that's vulnerable - the head, in the narrow bit of metal between the 2nd & 3rd cylinder. A
combination of corrosion due to old age and poor head-bolt tightening technique can make it crack.
2. Have you checked your cylinder head and top of the block for flatness? That can make a water-tight seal near-enough impossible.
3. Do you have, or can you borrow, a cylinder compression gauge? That will help to confirm or exclude a cylinder seal problem.
(just a few random thoughts...)
Good luck...
David
[Edited on 4/4/05 by David Jenkins]
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Peter Cowley
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| posted on 4/4/05 at 07:34 PM |
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Maybe a long shot but what about the seal between the water pump and timing chain ? Could water be escaping into the block there ??
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barraw
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| posted on 4/4/05 at 10:11 PM |
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Thanks for the responses. I recently replaced the water pump/timing chain cover gasket to rule that out. The PSI on each chamber is 150 psi
(145-155). My local garage said it could be a porus block - but it's a bit drastic to change the block.
Wouldn't a crack in the block or head be shown up with the cooling system pressure test - the cooling system holds pressure well, when charged
with 14 psi.
I've also been told by the garage it could just be condensation, but the milk is on the oil filler cap, and in the breather catch tank - and
I'm not sure how much is acceptable. I generally take it out for 20 mins every weekend. If I take it out for 1 hour, the milk disappears until
the next weekend - dur to it evaporating into the catch tank.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/4/05 at 06:41 PM |
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Sounds like over cooling push rod engines were always prone to it.
(1) Do you have an oil cooler fitted ?
(2) Do you have a therrmostat ? --- needs to be at least 77degrees 81 tp 84 is better or even an 88.
(3)Is the cooling system fitted with bypass ? -- this keeps the water circulating in the block and prevents over cooling and hot spots .
[Edited on 5/4/05 by britishtrident]
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 5/4/05 at 06:49 PM |
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agree with trident on that,check the breather is free as well,try running it without the filler cap on ,put a mirror over the hole and water should
form on the mirror,get it nice and hot and see if condensation stops or becomes less
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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barraw
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| posted on 5/4/05 at 07:00 PM |
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Over cooling sounds an interesting concept I've not considered, I've been trying to get the engine run a cool as possible.
Yes it has a 13 row mocal oil cooler which is controlled with a standard BurtonPower supplied sandwich plate, which I think is 82C. The cooling
system has a new radiator with thermostaticaly controlled fan, set to about 80c I think.
I don't understand point 3 regarding the bypass - how does that work?
thanks for your comments
The breather is free, I've just replaced the standard oil breather with a burtonpower ally billet version, and the rocker cover also has a
breather which is spitting milk most of the time, until the engine has been run for 30-40 mins.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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britishtrident
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| posted on 6/4/05 at 07:25 AM |
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In current weather conditions try blanking off the oil cooler entirely with tank tape - oil temp should be about 5 to 10 degrees above the water
temp, and fit an 88 degree thermostat in the water system.
The by-pass is normally connected through the heater matrix, on Fords water flows through the heater constantly
Raddiator fans are normally set to cut in about 95 degrees, the water in the raddiator is pressurised so the boiling point will be well above the
normal 100c
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