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Author: Subject: Alternative hubs/uprights
hood2bx

posted on 5/1/03 at 01:13 PM Reply With Quote
Alternative hubs/uprights

Hi all,
This has probably been asked before, but I can't find it in the history so..
Apart from Cortina Mk 3-5, are there any Ford hubs I can use instead. Can I use Sierra ones with a suitable insert at the top (as sold by Robin Hood) or does this alter the geometry at the front end, what about RWD Escort or Mk 2 or 3 Granny bits?
Any help app' as I want to widen the search for these bits a little (someone has hidden all the Cortinas round here!)
Glenn

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Duncan

posted on 5/1/03 at 03:51 PM Reply With Quote
Yes you can use Sierra ones. Adaptors are available that allow you to use the transit top ball.

Search through the site and you will find details of suppliers.

If you really want Cortina bits you can get complete front uprights and hubs for around £35 each from
www.auto-recycle.co.uk

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interestedparty

posted on 5/1/03 at 03:55 PM Reply With Quote
You will need to use shorter top wishbones if you use Sierra hubs, and I'm pretty sure that Cortina lower ball joints are NFG for Sierra hubs. MK drill Sierra hubs to take maxi balljoints

John





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Of society offenders who might well be underground,
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UncleFista

posted on 5/1/03 at 04:50 PM Reply With Quote
Tyey're still about if you look around, check your local "Yeller" or "Freeads" etc.

If you're feeling flush, check out ebay etc.

Ebay hubs

[Edited on 5/1/03 by UncleFista]

[Edited on 5/1/03 by UncleFista]





Tony Bond / UncleFista

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Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...

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John

posted on 5/1/03 at 06:34 PM Reply With Quote
Just another question on the same Sierra hub subject, if a Maxi bottom ball joint is used rather than Cortina, does the hole need to be taper drilled.

John.





Working on a CVH 1.8 engined Locost. Hoping to use as much as possible of Sierra donor. £210 left.

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interestedparty

posted on 5/1/03 at 07:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by John
Just another question on the same Sierra hub subject, if a Maxi bottom ball joint is used rather than Cortina, does the hole need to be taper drilled.

John.


Yes

John





As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!

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John

posted on 5/1/03 at 10:41 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks John.

I think I will carry on looking for Cortina hubs.

John.





Working on a CVH 1.8 engined Locost. Hoping to use as much as possible of Sierra donor. £210 left.

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hood2bx

posted on 7/1/03 at 03:51 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers all, I think I will carry on the search for Cortina ones also then...
Glenn

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James

posted on 7/1/03 at 04:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by hood2bx
Cheers all, I think I will carry on the search for Cortina ones also then...
Glenn


Another annoyance with using the Sierra hubs is that you can't use standard length wishbones. The offset between the centre of the top balljoint and the bottom is different from the Cortina.

HTH,

James

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Rorty

posted on 8/1/03 at 03:04 AM Reply With Quote
All this stuffing about with heavy, over-engineered (for a light Locost), mismatching car parts!
Surely, in the great Locost tradition, you should make your own uprights.
The advantages are numerous:
1/ Extremely light weight.
2/ Uses easily replaceable trackrod ends or Rose joints.
3/ Optimise the scrub radius for any old wheels you want to use.
4/ Use any caliper you want, including really light 4 or 6 pot bike calipers.
5/ Pick your own steering arm length to quicken/slow the steering.
6/ Easily made in your garage from cheap materials.
7/.....I'm too modest.
Rescued attachment R2_upright.jpg
Rescued attachment R2_upright.jpg






Cheers, Rorty.

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PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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interestedparty

posted on 8/1/03 at 07:49 AM Reply With Quote
Rorty, may I on behalf of some of the rest of us, express an interest in your home-made uprights. Perhaps we could prevail upon you to tell us how you do it?

John





As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!

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davimora

posted on 8/1/03 at 08:50 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Rorty,

i was thinking about use sierra uprights, but yours really make me ...
I hope you'll post a drawing.. SOON! i really want something like yours.
Davide

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kingr

posted on 8/1/03 at 12:08 PM Reply With Quote
Rorty

Please enlighten us to the construction of your uprights, they look super cool. Plus the discs look bizarre, I'm guessing they're off road, trials motorbike maybe, am I correct? The only disc I've seen like that before were for trials mountain bikes so they could take a battering and most importantly, looked cool. I used to have some on my push bike, till it got stolen
Do motorbike discs/calipers work on cars? I would have thought there would be heat/strength issues with the added weight?

Kingr

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fastenuff

posted on 8/1/03 at 07:02 PM Reply With Quote
this is another option from rorty's but doesn't look as good though

http://www.billzilla.org/newrcarhub2.jpg





Ingmar

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Rorty

posted on 9/1/03 at 03:14 AM Reply With Quote
Before I go any further, I think my uprights need a short introduction. The car weighs 390kg, and frequently hits the ground from heights up to 8 or 9 feet while traveling at about 60mph, when coming off jumps.
I have used everything under the sun over the years, including Torana (Australian version of the Viva) front uprights, and I even bent one of those.
My uprights are about half the weight of those Torana ones, yet I haven't had a single problem with them.
They are made from a turned stub axle, and two lengths of 3mm RHS. One bit for the steering arm, and the other bit has a V cut in it, then bent to the correct angle and welded.
I use Rose joints in the horizontal plane to give almost unlimited travel (in reality 14"), and turn some ball extenders to increase the angular limit of the joints to 48 degrees inclusive.
The cheapest way for the Locost would be to either use the Rose joints in the vertical plane, or use two Transit rod ends.
Again, to keep it cheap, you should be able to buy Cortina/Granada (or whatever you fancy) stub axles from any trailer parts place or motor factor, then just turn a spigot on the end for welding through the upright.
Obviously that's over simplifying matters, but you get the idea. The important bit is to get the geometry right. Now I'm only too glad to help out with drawing the jig and the upright itself, but I can see this blowing out ....some may want vertical Rose joints, some horizontal, some for Escort, some for Granada etc. and that's not even going near the various caliper permutations!
To be honest, I would rule out the horizontal Rose joints, as the ball extenders are quite hard to produce by NC...read expensive.
If someone wants to start a poll, and come up with say 4 or 5 different popular models, and can supply me with the various dimensions I need, such as ball to ball (vertically and diagonally), and distance to disc face etc, then I'll do the rest for free.
If on the other hand someone wants different hubs, bike calipers (thin discs), different scrub radius for those sexy Peugeot wheels etc etc, then I'll charge them my going hourly rate, which, with the conversion rate the way it is at the moment, is pocket money to you lot!

quote:

Plus the discs look bizarre, I'm guessing they're off road, trials motorbike maybe, am I correct?



I design all my own discs, and have them laser cut. That way, I can maximise the disc size to the available wheel well clearance, depending on what calipers I'm using. The "bizzare" shape has several functions.
1/ The discs are as light as possible.
2/ They stay cool.
3/ The outer "cauliflower" profile actually cuts any debris off the face of the pads.
I have never warped one, even when driving on the roads, when we go "bush" for a week end. If they did start to warp, they are a fraction of the cost of a regular car disc to replace.
Fastenuff, those uprights you illustrate are fine, and I suspect they are a universal upright i,e, for front/rear, drive /non-drive use. I have made some like them for a 4WD project. They are certainly strong enough, probably a little heavy, and quite a bit more difficult to jig and weld.






Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Metal Hippy™

posted on 9/1/03 at 03:21 AM Reply With Quote
Hmmmm interesting.

Could be a potential solution as to how to use the running gear from our BMW in this thread.

You may hear from me at some point Rorty....





President of the Non-conformist Locost Builders Club. E-mail for details...

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kingr

posted on 9/1/03 at 10:34 AM Reply With Quote
Rorty,

I think I would be safe in suggesting that the most popular fitment would be Sierra hubs to cortina dimension uprights. Also would it be possible to see a few pictures of your upright on its own? Finally, and less related, are your wishbones powder coated or painted? They look very nice either way.

Kingr

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ijohnston99

posted on 9/1/03 at 10:59 AM Reply With Quote
How about sierra ones to fit an MK Indy?



I'd be willing to send a donation!

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Rorty

posted on 10/1/03 at 03:39 AM Reply With Quote
Kingr:
quote:

the most popular fitment would be Sierra hubs to cortina dimension uprights.


OK, I'm happy to do those, though I'll need you, or somone to provide some basic measurements. In other words, Cortina upright dimensions, and Sierra stub axle dimensions along with the relative position of the Sierra caliper bracket.
If you want to email me, I can let you have a requisition sheet with all the relevent blank dimensions for you to fill in.

quote:

Also would it be possible to see a few pictures of your upright on its own?


I'll have to do a bit of digging, I just pulled that other image off my web site. Give me a minute, and I should be able to come up with a pic or 3D drawing.

quote:

are your wishbones powder coated or painted?


I paint everything. Powder coating isn't tough enough, and can't be touched up.

quote:

How about sierra ones to fit an MK Indy?


Sure. What's the Indy based on, Cortina or Sierra? Same as above, if you contact me, I'll email you a sheet to fill in with the measurements.

quote:

I'd be willing to send a donation!


All donations gratefully received.



Damn, forgot you cant attach an image by editing.

[Edited on 10/1/03 by Rorty]





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Rorty

posted on 10/1/03 at 05:03 AM Reply With Quote
I have uploaded a few pics of one of my front upright/hub assemblies to the Photos archive. The upright is for use with Rose joints mounted horizontally. It would be virtually the same for use with say, Transit tierod ends, other than the Transit rod ends would obviously have to be mounted vertically.
I have built them with VW Beetle tierod ends in this fashion. Worked beautifully.






Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Rorty

posted on 15/1/03 at 02:56 AM Reply With Quote
quote:

how haveyou arranged the bearings in your uprights/hubs


The rod ends are orientated in the horizontal plane.





Cheers, Rorty.

"Faster than a speeding Pullet".

PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!

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Fast Westie

posted on 15/1/03 at 11:36 AM Reply With Quote
Has anyone considered Metro hubs?

Before you all laugh, you get ball joints top and bottom that could be clamped, ventilated disks (small) and 4-pot calipers. Might be worth investigating.


Rorty
When I checked your photos page didn't work





The car in front is a Westfield

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Barker

posted on 15/1/03 at 12:16 PM Reply With Quote
metro hubs

I'm not laughing!!!!

I have changed to a chain driven diff which now requires metor drive shafts - the logical link is also to use metro hubs [trying to source now]. this is for the rear though.

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PHULL

posted on 17/1/03 at 07:56 AM Reply With Quote
hey there Rorty I live in melbourne too
what side of Melb u live on?
east<-----me
I was wondering on ur opinion of Ford Falcon XF disks and calipers for this aplication?

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fastenuff

posted on 17/1/03 at 07:27 PM Reply With Quote
I ve put in some strange brainwaves into this subject. Taking Terrapin ideas with sierra parts. The results were some odd models for fornt uprights, as seen in the photo section. height simular to the cortina part as is the angle.

Comments would be welcome





Ingmar

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