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Author: Subject: fuel tank breather
Dave J

posted on 3/2/06 at 03:09 PM Reply With Quote
fuel tank breather

Hi All,

I have a small outlet from the top of my fuel tank, which is obviously for a breather pipe.
Can anybody tell me at what level the end of the pipe should be, ie, above the tank, below or what?
Also, should it have some sort of vapour trap/valve on the end to stop fumes escaping?

Many thanks for your help.

Dave

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flak monkey

posted on 3/2/06 at 03:13 PM Reply With Quote
Best thing to do, or should that be simplest, is to take a bit of fuel hose and bend it through 180deg. Make the long end long enough to hang below the bottom of the tank. The short end should attach to your breather. This way if you ever have the misfortune of ending up upside down you wont have petrol leaking from your tank.

David





Sera

http://www.motosera.com

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bob

posted on 3/2/06 at 03:15 PM Reply With Quote
I've just got a one way valve on the top of mine,works fine and went through SVA ok.

[Edited on 3/2/06 by bob] Rescued attachment MK Indy build pics 072.jpg
Rescued attachment MK Indy build pics 072.jpg







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andyharding

posted on 3/2/06 at 03:43 PM Reply With Quote
I used one of the 1 way valves on the stick Pinto induction system.





Are you a Mac user or a retard?

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NS Dev

posted on 3/2/06 at 03:51 PM Reply With Quote
Either of the above will do the trick.

For what it's worth I usually use a piece of copper/kunifer brake line looped around the tank and terminated with an open end just below the tank.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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Dave J

posted on 3/2/06 at 04:10 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the quick replies all, they all sound great ideas.
I'll probably combine the loop pipe and the valve.

Incidentally where can a buy a one way valve from?(save me trawling the net).

Thanks again.

All the best
Dave

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NS Dev

posted on 3/2/06 at 05:33 PM Reply With Quote
Think Automotive or Rally Design, both net based





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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RazMan

posted on 3/2/06 at 11:31 PM Reply With Quote
Harris performance do a suitable one for £7.23 + vat





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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cornishrob

posted on 4/2/06 at 09:54 AM Reply With Quote
laying in bed last night i actually had a thought about this.


with the one way valve nothing should leak, but im never one to take chances.


problem i see is if the car lands upside down it wont let petrol out, but what if the car lands on its side and the one way valve fails.

petrol everywhere!


My suggested answer to this is place the breather pipe along the length of the tank before it exits down to the ground. so that whatever way you land the petrol will have to flow uphill to leak.


NS devs idea of looping around the tank is a good idea but you still have the possability of a leak if the cars on its side.

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britishtrident

posted on 4/2/06 at 11:25 AM Reply With Quote
Oneway valve works on head of pressure --- won't leak no matter what way up the car is .
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RazMan

posted on 4/2/06 at 11:26 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cornishrob
NS devs idea of looping around the tank is a good idea but you still have the possability of a leak if the cars on its side.


But that depends if you loop around north/south or east/west
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Oneway valve works on head of pressure --- won't leak no matter what way up the car is .


But it wont allow air to vent fron the tank either - your tank will be inflated and go pop!


[Edited on 4-2-06 by RazMan]





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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Dave J

posted on 6/2/06 at 12:08 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks again for the info guys, it's a great help.
quote:


Originally quoted by RazMan;

But it wont allow air to vent fron the tank either - your tank will be inflated and go pop!



Surely the one way valve will allow air into the tank when the pump draws the fuel out, so I cant see how the tank would either implode or explode.
On filling the tank the displaced air would rise up the filler. Have I missed something or am I being too simplistic?

Thanks again.

Dave.

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Schrodinger

posted on 6/2/06 at 12:49 PM Reply With Quote
You should use the proper valve which lets air/vapour flow either way but does not let petrol through. There needs to be a way of air entering the tank as you use the fuel and to allow air out as it expands when the car is standing on a hot day.
I did just loop my breather pipe over as others have suggested, however, I filled the car to the brim one day and drove off and home with a couple of tight turns and parked the car in my drive and when I came back a couple of min later the fuel was syphoning out of the tank.

Keith
Suffolk

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RazMan

posted on 6/2/06 at 01:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dave J

Surely the one way valve will allow air into the tank when the pump draws the fuel out, so I cant see how the tank would either implode or explode.
On filling the tank the displaced air would rise up the filler. Have I missed something or am I being too simplistic?



As Schrodinger just said, a one way valve will not allow for expansion gases to escape - I am suprised by the siphoning though

There are some dedicated tank valves that operate 2 ways (not exactly sure how) but like all good things they are a bit pricey. Think Auto do one (TRL67) for around £25.



A range of fuel tank valves that allows 1)air in to replace fuel used, 2) air out due to heat expansion. 3) a positive shut off to prevent fuel escape, due to splashing or even roll over. This is achieved by a two ball system, one hollow plastic, one solid steel.

[Edited on 6-2-06 by RazMan]





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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NS Dev

posted on 6/2/06 at 01:22 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Schrodinger
You should use the proper valve which lets air/vapour flow either way but does not let petrol through. There needs to be a way of air entering the tank as you use the fuel and to allow air out as it expands when the car is standing on a hot day.
I did just loop my breather pipe over as others have suggested, however, I filled the car to the brim one day and drove off and home with a couple of tight turns and parked the car in my drive and when I came back a couple of min later the fuel was syphoning out of the tank.

Keith
Suffolk



Sorry but this is physically impossible unless the end of the breather pipe is below the fuel level!! (which it most certainly should not be!)

What you probably had was some residual fuel trapped in the loop of pipe which was being pushed out as warmth caused vapour pressure in the tank.

Most fuel breathers will leak a small amount.

Many production cars don't have any fancy rollover valves, my sierra XR4x4 doesn't for example.

Britishtrident - I know what you are saying about rollover valves, but in my experience, because they hardly ever close, the first time they do they nearly always leak anyway!!!!! The ball seat usually either has pitting or dirt on it or doesn't quite seal properly for some reason. Certainly we rolled the rally car 6 times in 6 seperate events over 2 years and the "no leak" megabucks valve leaked every time!!!

The comments about ending up on your side with the breather pipe leaking are valid with the curly pipe idea, you just have to be imaginative with the routing and then make the odd offering to somebody upstairs (if you believe in all that) just in case!





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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Dave J

posted on 6/2/06 at 01:22 PM Reply With Quote
Ah now that clears it up nicely, thanks guys

All the best,

Dave

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Dave J

posted on 6/2/06 at 01:28 PM Reply With Quote
But then again!!

Better get my hassock out!

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DarrenW

posted on 6/2/06 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
i fited one way valve to breather pipe then mounted that higher than the tank inlet. I figured that most of the time the car isnt upside down and more often than not you can fill the tank and part way up the neck - hence higher is better. SVA man was happy with this.

As an aside hijack - does everyone else have bother filling the tank - pump keeps clicking off. Neck is 90deg flexi to back panel mounted cap.






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Jubal

posted on 8/2/06 at 07:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
i fited one way valve to breather pipe then mounted that higher than the tank inlet. I figured that most of the time the car isnt upside down and more often than not you can fill the tank and part way up the neck - hence higher is better. SVA man was happy with this.

As an aside hijack - does everyone else have bother filling the tank - pump keeps clicking off. Neck is 90deg flexi to back panel mounted cap.


Mine's the same. PITA. It even spits fuel back out when I fill slowly from a jerry can. The breather pipe is an open tube at present so there shouldn't be any issue with escaping air.

I'm considering fitting a slightly longer flexi hose to see if that helps, especially as inspired by this thread and the shower of petrol I've been giving people who follow me on track I bought an inline one way valve to fit into the breather pipe so cutting off that as a route for escaping air. Let me know you find a cure.

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RazMan

posted on 8/2/06 at 08:10 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Jubal
I'm considering fitting a slightly longer flexi hose to see if that helps


If you mean the corrugated style rubber hose - that could be your problem because the flow is very slow due to the corrugations.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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Jubal

posted on 8/2/06 at 09:41 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
If you mean the corrugated style rubber hose - that could be your problem because the flow is very slow due to the corrugations.


Thanks but it's the flexible rubber lined stuff with a steel spiral running through it.

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Jon Ison

posted on 8/2/06 at 09:52 PM Reply With Quote
couple of things too think about........

I would defo fit a non return but also fit it as close too tank as poss, if the pipe gets ripped off in a collision then you have an open end again.

filler cap, if this is fastened too the bodywork and the bodywork gets hit, damaged or ripped off in a collision then you have around a 2" open end into your tank, I have seen this too an unfortunate soul, if your doing track days in your car i would be tempted too look at your filler cap position and maybe even if its only a road car too, I know these aerocaps look nice on the rear panel but imagine what would happen if you got one up the rear ???

Ive had a fair few offs in my time, the one at cadwell would have seen the filler cap off if it had been fastened too the bodywork and the more recent one on the road would have had the filler cap off too.

Food for thought.






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Jubal

posted on 8/2/06 at 10:37 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for that sobering thought!
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Jeffers_S13

posted on 3/7/06 at 10:43 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
Either of the above will do the trick.

For what it's worth I usually use a piece of copper/kunifer brake line looped around the tank and terminated with an open end just below the tank.

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Jeffers_S13

posted on 3/7/06 at 10:44 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
Either of the above will do the trick.

For what it's worth I usually use a piece of copper/kunifer brake line looped around the tank and terminated with an open end just below the tank.


How is it connected to the fuel tank ?

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