ned
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 08:44 PM |
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battery light not going out.
car is pretty much fully wired now but small problem with the charge light on the dash not going out when the engine is running. its a nippon denso
alternator and a bright 6 display.
have checked previous posts and pretty sure its wired properly - if we swap the wires over at the alternator end we get no lights at all.
we have checked the battery is chargin by putting multimeter over it and they go up to 14.5v when the engine is running and 12v when its not.
any help appreciated.
cheers,
Ned.
[Edited on 17/5/06 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 08:59 PM |
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are they led,s?could be the prob,insert a test light in circuit and see what happens
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Ketchup
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 09:15 PM |
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is the light staying on when the ign is off? if so prob a diode failed on the alt
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rayward
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 09:17 PM |
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had the same problem with my old car, the led alternator warning lamp was to blame, as said above fit a filament lamp temporarily
Ray
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shortie
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 09:32 PM |
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It's wired as per this http://www.westfield-world.com/Daihatsu_alternator2.html
When I add a warning light should the other side go to a 12v supply or earth, I think 12v but no light whatsoever when I do that :-(
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RazMan
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 09:38 PM |
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Normally the 'lamp' wire goes from alternator to dash light and then to switched +12V. The dash light lights when the alternator lamp wire
switches to an earth (when it stops)
As the Bright 6 has an led warning light, does it need an external diode to make it 'look' like a filament bulb?
[Edited on 17-5-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 17/5/06 at 09:42 PM |
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From memory i think you need at least a 3 watt bulb for the ign warning lamp(acr type). So prolly the same for this one. An led needs very litttle
voltage to light it up.
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C10CoryM
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| posted on 18/5/06 at 02:23 AM |
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Both wires to the charging light should be hot with the car running. One should be IGN+, the other should go to the alternator and be the same
voltage as IGN+. LEDs may be too low voltage to work well as a charge light. The difference in voltage drop would be enough to turn the LED on even
though the vehicle is fine.
"Our watchword evermore shall be: The Maple Leaf Forever!"
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/5/06 at 07:10 AM |
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The Bright6 module does have the extra components to make it look like a filament bulb to the alternator. No extras required.
David
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James
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| posted on 18/5/06 at 07:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
The Bright6 module does have the extra components to make it look like a filament bulb to the alternator. No extras required.
David
Ok, that's interesting.
I've got Bright6 and Rascal alt and the charge light is slightly intermittent. I wondered if the Bright6 was right on the limit but if you say
it's designed to work then I guess it's something else!
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/5/06 at 07:50 AM |
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I should add that if I drive my car at night, I can see that the charge light does flicker faintly at tick-over.
I don't let it worry me though!
David
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James
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| posted on 18/5/06 at 08:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I should add that if I drive my car at night, I can see that the charge light does flicker faintly at tick-over.
I don't let it worry me though!
David
Don't spose you're up for temporarily wiring a bulb in aswell are you? To see if that cures it?
Only if it's easy to do....
Cheers,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/5/06 at 08:15 AM |
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It's a real wrestling match to get behind my dash - I only go in there if I have something that needs doing! (It's a 1 or 2 hour job to go
in there, do whatever's necessary and put it all back.)
Sorry!
David
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ned
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| posted on 18/5/06 at 08:22 AM |
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David,
Purely by the by, I cut the back off my grp scuttle and have put in a removable ally panel for this very reason. i was getting bored of hangin upside
down with my feet on the rollbar doing my back in trying to get to some of the switches!!
cheers,
Ned.
ps heres a pic:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/IMG_2032b.jpg
[Edited on 18/5/06 by ned]
beware, I've got yellow skin
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shortie
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| posted on 18/5/06 at 09:00 AM |
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We wired a warning light between the alternator and 12 supply to test the charging light and eliminate the Bright 6 but that does not light at all.
I am convinced we have the wiring correct so maybe the diode in the alternator is knackered :-(
Rich.
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James
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| posted on 18/5/06 at 09:29 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
It's a real wrestling match to get behind my dash - I only go in there if I have something that needs doing! (It's a 1 or 2 hour job to go
in there, do whatever's necessary and put it all back.)
Sorry!
David
Alright, no probs.
I can give it a go myself, (maybe at the alt' end as it's easy on mine there) see what happens!
Ned, that's a good idea about cutting an access slot.
Might give that a go myself! Maybe just a small panel rather than the whole lot though. Specially useful if I fit an under-panel to the dash!
Cheers,
James
[Edited on 18/5/06 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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