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Author: Subject: eaton m45 supercharger on 2.0l zetec pics
Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:02 PM Reply With Quote
eaton m45 supercharger on 2.0l zetec pics

Bearing in mind this isnt quite finished, but I'll admit it has definatly got a low cost look and feel to it, a good clean would help. But it works and i've been for a drive. Although I am waiting for a water pump for the charge cooler, a couple of pipes to replace the black ones, an air filter, and possibly a bypass valve too, wherever you get those.

Does anybody know what boost this will be standard zetec(132mm) and mini pulley(65mm I think)? MAP was reading 140kpa.

Whats the max I can run safeish, as engines are less than a ton.

Setup

2.0l zetec throttle body
eaton m45
custom charge cooler
custom inlet joined to St170 inlet manifold
VW golf fuel pump
St170 fuel rail modded with return to take Ford probe fuel reg.
St170 injectors
Megasquirt ECU


Rough coversion Costs from GSXR TB

superpercharger £100
silicone pipes £65
custom inlet manifold £80
chargecooler/radiator £100ish

Total £345

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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:03 PM Reply With Quote
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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:03 PM Reply With Quote
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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:04 PM Reply With Quote
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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:04 PM Reply With Quote
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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:07 PM Reply With Quote
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TPG

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:08 PM Reply With Quote
A Rolls Royce answer to the question is adiqu.Adikw.adiquw...Arse.Enough!Man thats a COOL Install.Keep up the good work





..Which was nice..

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stevebubs

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:10 PM Reply With Quote
If the supercharger is under the inlet manifold, where is your alternator?
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stevebubs

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:14 PM Reply With Quote
OK...couple more questions...

What size T/B have you used?

What is the rubber bit below from ?

In a similar vein, how have you got the outlet converted to round pipe?

Thx

Stephen Rescued attachment untitled.JPG
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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:26 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
OK...couple more questions...

What size T/B have you used?

What is the rubber bit below from ?

In a similar vein, how have you got the outlet converted to round pipe?

Thx

Stephen



The alternator is lying on the garage floor just now. I have bought a small one off a vitara and this will be fitted eventually to the exhaust side.

The throttle body is just one I had lying around I think off a 2.0l zetec.

The rubber pipe below the inlet manifold is from a land rover. This is getting replaced with a 3.5" to 2.5" silicone reducer comming from the states. I couldnt find one here.

Unfortunatly I deleted the picture of the outlet from the supercharger. All I did was make a plate up to fit the outlet drilled a 60mm hole in it and welded on a 60mm round pipe, not ideal but seems to work fine.

[Edited on 29/5/06 by Monkeybasher]

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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
Also that land rover pipe isnt so great by the way, I did about ten miles all was fine then it popped off effectively giving me full throttle. I put it on again same thing happened. I wont be driviing it again until I get the silicone jobby, which should fit better.
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James

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:44 PM Reply With Quote
[vader]
Impressive.... Most Impressive!
[/vader]

All I can say is Wow! A very cool 'Locost' style solution. Where's the charger from? A donor car or a 'special'?

Have you lowered the compression ratio of the engine? How? Spacer plate?

Sorry for so many questions!

Cheers,
James





------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights." - Muhammad Ali

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James

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Monkeybasher
Also that land rover pipe isnt so great by the way, I did about ten miles all was fine then it popped off effectively giving me full throttle. I put it on again same thing happened. I wont be driviing it again until I get the silicone jobby, which should fit better.


What about W
welding a few small ali blobs (no more than a millimetre or two high) onto the casing onto which the pipe sits- these would act to help stop the jubilee clip/pipe coming.

Worked for my stainless water hoses!

HTH,
James





------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights." - Muhammad Ali

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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:50 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by James
[vader]
Impressive.... Most Impressive!
[/vader]

All I can say is Wow! A very cool 'Locost' style solution. Where's the charger from? A donor car or a 'special'?

Have you lowered the compression ratio of the engine? How? Spacer plate?

Sorry for so many questions!

Cheers,
James



The charger is from the mini cooper s loads on ebay, only done delivery miles.

I have not touched the compression, from what I have read if I can keep intake temps low, hence the charge cooler, then I would not need to lower the compression unlike a turbo which tend to have higher intake temps. Time will tell if this is true

Cheers

Steve

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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by James
quote:
Originally posted by Monkeybasher
Also that land rover pipe isnt so great by the way, I did about ten miles all was fine then it popped off effectively giving me full throttle. I put it on again same thing happened. I wont be driviing it again until I get the silicone jobby, which should fit better.


What about W
welding a few small ali blobs (no more than a millimetre or two high) onto the casing onto which the pipe sits- these would act to help stop the jubilee clip/pipe coming.

Worked for my stainless water hoses!

HTH,
James


Not a bad idea. I'm hoping though that the new silicone pipe will be large enough to go over the lip at the edge od the charger. If not I may grind this lip off to allow the pipe to go on further.

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Danozeman

posted on 29/5/06 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
Looks good. Has it made alot of differnce to the performance??





Dan

Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!

http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk

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Monkeybasher

posted on 29/5/06 at 09:27 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Danozeman
Looks good. Has it made alot of differnce to the performance??


I haven't finished mapping yet and the charge cooler isnt working but I would say its slightly quicker than when it was on the throttle bodies. Hopefully with the mapping done and the charge cooler working and maybe a smaller charger pulley it will be lots faster. If I can get to 200bhp+ I will be happy. I think 220bhp would be the absolute max. The power does seems to be over a wider range already and I love the noise

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MikeRJ

posted on 29/5/06 at 10:14 PM Reply With Quote
Very cool, but I think you will struggle to get a reliable 200bhp with stock compression ratio. Detonation is likely to become a problem above a few PSI boost as the Zetec starts with about 10:1 CR.
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rick q

posted on 29/5/06 at 11:33 PM Reply With Quote
For what it's worth, the last of the supercharged Toyota 4AGZE's (1600cc DOHC) ran 8.9:1 cr with forged pistons
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bimbleuk

posted on 30/5/06 at 07:29 AM Reply With Quote
How much boost will depend on various factors including the CR, intercooling, supercharger efficiency and how good the spark/fuel control is.

Generally you shouldn't run more thn 6-7 psi on an un-mofified engine but again several factors will determine the boost you see. Heat is the key so a well inter/charge cooled setup with an unrestrictive inlet path and an efficient supercharger design will always produce more power at similar PSI than a badly designed install!

My import Celica 2ZZ-GE 1800cc engine ran a Blitz supercharger kit on a standard engine with 11.5:1 CR. The supercharger was not as efficient as the Eaton but did have a massive front mount intercooler and a Blitz exchange ECU. No issues with det. even on 95 RON fuel and produced 230BHP @ 7800 RPM.

"Supercharged" is a good refence book for info by Corky Bell

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bimbleuk

posted on 30/5/06 at 07:34 AM Reply With Quote
Oh and a bypass valve is a must IMHO for driveability/economy and in your instance to stop the inlet pipe blowing off when you lift off the throttle quickly. Thats what I'm guessing is happening anyway.

I've have one in my parts stock but sorry I'm keeping it as I also have a Mini SC waiting to be installed sometime. I got mine direct from Eaton as the official UK agent was useless.

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andyharding

posted on 30/5/06 at 12:34 PM Reply With Quote
Looking good. I'm planning on using an M45 on a spare Zetec 1800 I have sitting in the garage.

I'll see about turning a dish into the pistons with a lathe to reduce CR so I can run more boost.

Also, was going to have the TB after the charger and use a dump valve for more fun sounds.

Why did you do it the way you have? What are the advantages / disadvantages?





Are you a Mac user or a retard?

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Monkeybasher

posted on 30/5/06 at 05:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by andyharding
Looking good. I'm planning on using an M45 on a spare Zetec 1800 I have sitting in the garage.

I'll see about turning a dish into the pistons with a lathe to reduce CR so I can run more boost.

Also, was going to have the TB after the charger and use a dump valve for more fun sounds.

Why did you do it the way you have? What are the advantages / disadvantages?


I'm not sure what the advantages of eithier are maybe somebody else will know. I suppose my throttle body could be moved easily if there was a benefit. I was just copying the cooper s which is before.

One advantage of nearer the inlet manifold and after the charger is the hoses probably wont collapse before the throttle body, this is one problem I have just now with all silicone pipes after the throttle body collapsing, bypass valve may sort this, but I'm not sure.

Another is the dump valve

Do you intend to run chargecooler or intercooler and is the dump valve instead of the bypass valve or as well as.

Cheers

Steve

[Edited on 30/5/06 by Monkeybasher]

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andyharding

posted on 30/5/06 at 07:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Monkeybasher

I'm not sure what the advantages of eithier are maybe somebody else will know. I suppose my throttle body could be moved easily if there was a benefit. I was just copying the cooper s which is before.

One advantage of nearer the inlet manifold and after the charger is the hoses probably wont collapse before the throttle body, this is one problem I have just now with all silicone pipes after the throttle body collapsing, bypass valve may sort this, but I'm not sure.

Another is the dump valve

Do you intend to run chargecooler or intercooler and is the dump valve instead of the bypass valve or as well as.




A bit more digging suggests the BMW charger has a built in bypass valve.

Also, running the charger after the TB means when not boosting it's in a vacuum which improves economy etc.

I would run an intercooler.

I think a bypass valve bleeds excess charge back into the rotors and is actuated either by reaching max boost and/or vacuum. The bypass valve limits max boost. A dump valve vents excess boost upon a vacuum i.e. when throttle is closed. It will have no effect on max boost.

Will continue reading up...





Are you a Mac user or a retard?

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atomic

posted on 30/5/06 at 09:04 PM Reply With Quote
An easier way to reduce compression than removing material from the piston surface would be to fit a thicker head gasket.
Unless you have the capability to remove precisely the same amount of material and rebalance the pistons then I can not recommend strongly enough you do NOT do this as at best you will destroy your engine very, very quickly and at wrost you or someone elso could come to harm then the engine lets go.

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