Liam
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 05:37 PM |
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Chassis painting...
Right - fast comming to the stage where I want to paint my chassis. I was originally planning on getting it blasted then powder coated but this is
gonna work out very expensive. So I think I'm gonna spend hours going over it with a wire brush attatchment/wet and dry then paint it myself.
This way I can cover it now and stop further rust and still rub bits away to weld anything on i've forgotten later, and touch up the paint.
I just read the earlier thread about chassis painting and will ponder over the various options - etcher, red oxide primer, tractol etc etc. But
before I spend ages getting back to good clean metal, am i right assuming all these options require clean metal completely free of surface rust? My
surface rust comes off easy but it's all over the chassis and will take yonks to remove (but is strangely satisfying to do).
Also, what's the difference between stuff like etcher, red oxide, rust preventative primer, the grey primer you can buy at halfords, etc etc?
And finally, if i decide i want something 'proper' heavy duty like Tractol or POR15 does anyone know of any suppliers?
Thanks very much,
Liam
[Edited on 1/5/03 by Liam]
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Viper
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 05:44 PM |
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I would definatly get it blasted not only will it get rid off all the rust etc incuding all the fiddely bits but will also give a realy good key for
whatever paint you use, there is a guy on elstow storage depot that is pretty cheap...i got a feeling he is called mid beds blasting or something like
that..
Tractol..isnt that synthetic enamel, any paint shop should be able to supply it, i am sure MK paint and equiptment sell it. i have used smoothrite on
my wishbones and had my chassis powder coated localy.
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Liam
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 05:55 PM |
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I think that must be the guy I spoke too. I said "Yeah ya know - like a westfield chassis" and he said "probably looking at about
120 quid". Probably very reasonable (and it's the only place I've found locally) and would save lots of hassle for me - but
it's still pricey if you're my level of poor. Hmmm, dunno.
I found a local powder coating place but they didn't have a clue what i meant when i tried to describe the chassis. They said about 40 quid,
which seems extremely cheap, but I think that may go up when they see it (considering MK engineering quote 176 quid to get it done). Unless you know
of anywhere...
Liam
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Viper
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 06:08 PM |
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that blasting does sound a lot,
i think i paid £100 for my powder coating a one man band outfit on water eaton ind est over here in MK, i know a guy who does blasting i can have a
word next time i see him if you like he is over papworth way.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 06:12 PM |
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i found hammerite chips too easy,i used red lead then house hold gloss on top,just cant find a bright enuf yellow 
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Jasper
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 07:18 PM |
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I've used Tractol and think it's pretty sh*t, but then maybe I didn't put it on very well, seems to hip very easily.
I'm gonna get some paint on liguid rubber stuff from B&Q (used for roofing) to do the underside of chassis and wings to protect it more.
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Liam
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 07:32 PM |
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Thanks for the thoughts...
Righty ho - say I either get it blasted or clean the rust of myself. Either way I think I will paint it instead of powder coating for cheapness and
the ability to touch it up as need be.
So - is standard grey spray primer from somewhere like halfords decent or do I want something a bit more special like an etch primer or red oxide or
something? What exactly is red oxide anyway?
Cheers,
Liam
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PaulBuz
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 08:01 PM |
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Hi Liam
I was in a similar situation myself recently.
It was'nt so much the cost of blasting ,but more of a transportation one!
Anyway I used 'the tool' everyone talks of in my grinder over the whole chassis, then used a small wire brush to get into those harder to
reach places.
Then cleaned it down with white spirt.
I painted it with hammerites 'rust beater' primer.
This primer can be used directly onto rusty metal as it actively kills rust.
Although I would'nt say that my chassis was rusty after the treatment described above, it does give peace of mind in case I missed a bit!
2 thick coats and voila!
[Edited on 1/5/03 by PaulBuz]
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kiwirex
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 08:48 PM |
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Liam says:
> So - is standard grey spray primer from somewhere like halfords decent or do I want something a bit more special ...
My unhelpful suggestion...
If you're just painting pipes ... wouldn't a brush be better?
- Greg H
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stephen_gusterson
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| posted on 1/5/03 at 08:54 PM |
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I like conrod also used household gloss with a suitable household gloss metal primer.
The frame was totally rust free and was buillt with clean steel and remained indoors. Its a good idea to paint asap cos moisture can get to it from
the air. thats why an easy touch up paint is useful as you add / tweak things.
The logic I used wasthe final car is only gonna do about 3k a year, and not in the wet by choice.
Once you panel the car you will be suprised how little of the chassis is left viewable anyway. The underneath is more important and there is always
underseal for that if your gonna drive in all weathers.
The gloss finish is quite good, it costs only 10 quid, and once hard after a month or so you wouldnt know it from any other paint. Its also easy to
touch up again if you add little welded extras on.
atb
steve
[Edited on 1/5/03 by stephen_gusterson]
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sg_frost
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| posted on 2/5/03 at 12:05 AM |
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I used zinc primer as i went. The added bonus that it kills rust, and can be welded through. very handy stuff. Problem though, brush painted some
bits, tried to flat it down, and the stuff is hard as nails after a while. Good stuff, expensive at £15 a litre though, called zinc 182, would use it
again.
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merkurman
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| posted on 2/5/03 at 01:31 AM |
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being a ex painter supplier....
I would wire brush most of all the rust off. you can leave the discolored spots on the steel. next wipe it all down with some lacquer thinner then
wax/grease remover. then use a small touch -up spray gun dialed down to a small pattern (3" range) to spray on som eself ectching primer (will
cover real good). follow up with your prefered automotive paint in the same gun and setup (very little waste this way) let cure for a week or so to
get a nice hard finish.
or
wire wheel it clean and wipe it down as above then paint with a 2 part epoxy paint ($$$$) just as hard as powder and can be done at home.
if I ever make a chassis I will go route 1.
nick
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Peteff
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| posted on 2/5/03 at 09:08 AM |
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Zinc 128
I've used that as well and for several different projects. You can thin it with cheap cellulose thinner and put a couple of coats on and it
lasts a lot longer, and it doesn't leave brush marks that way. I used Joy enamel from B&Q for the top coat. Cheap and easy to touch up, not
me the paint .
yours, Pete.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 3/5/03 at 04:10 PM |
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i got some REAL bright yellow for my chassis today,most of it is on the floor of b&q near the checkout but i saved enuf to do the chassis i think
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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ChrisW
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| posted on 3/5/03 at 06:01 PM |
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I was going to say the same!!
re: blasting and coating - a complete blast and powder coat for my Luego+12+8+6 chassis cost £195.
There's a local guy who'll blast small bits for the price of a drink eg front hubs cost me a tenner. £100 just for the blasting sounds a
little steep to me!
BTW nothing against your chassis (or painting skils  ) Jasper but seeing the way the oil spillage effected the Tractol under your ECU I
wouldn't use it myself.
Chris
quote:
Originally posted by kiwirex
Liam says:
> So - is standard grey spray primer from somewhere like halfords decent or do I want something a bit more special ...
My unhelpful suggestion...
If you're just painting pipes ... wouldn't a brush be better?
- Greg H
My gaff my rules
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Jumpy Guy
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| posted on 25/6/03 at 11:31 AM |
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Where do i get Zinc 128?
cant seem to find it anywhere!
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simontiger
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| posted on 25/6/03 at 04:01 PM |
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primer
Hi the best stuff is davids zinc primer which is gray and will take any type of top coat
I have used it on my chassis and then gave it a 2 coats of white primer as the finish colour of my locost is day glow yellow
Regards
Zinc 128 halfords sell it its a yellow and black tin avalable in 4 sizes
Simon
Ps If its good enough for Ferrari its good enough for me!!!!!
[Edited on 25/6/03 by simontiger]
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greggors84
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| posted on 25/6/03 at 09:07 PM |
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Ive ordered my chassis from MK, Im planning on spraying the chassis, wishbones and uprights with hammerite from a spray can.
What prep work will i need to do for each of these. Im guessing the uprights and other donor components given a good cleaning.
How much will shot blasting be for the uprights and do they need to be primed before being sprayed.
[Edited on 25/6/03 by greggors84]
Chris
The Magnificent 7!
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 25/6/03 at 09:32 PM |
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The only prepwork required before using hammerite is a frontal lobotomy.
The only results you will get is a nasty headache, weeks of regret as you painfully remove the useless deposits by hand
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craig1410
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| posted on 25/6/03 at 10:18 PM |
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Agreed, do some searching on this forum for hammerite and you will find nothing but complaints. It doesn't set to a hard finish is the main
gripe. Many people advocate Dulux weathershield as a good topcoat and it looks like zinc primer gets the vote here for an undercoat. My main tip would
be to use thin layers so that it sets properly. This isn't a problem if spraying but can be if brushing. Etch primer is worth considering
too.
Cheers,
Craig.
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blueshift
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| posted on 25/6/03 at 11:02 PM |
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What about protecting one's chassis from rusting on the inside? you can try and weld plates over all the ends, but there are going to be all
those rivet and bolt holes..
anyone know any tricks?
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Alan B
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| posted on 26/6/03 at 01:23 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blueshift
What about protecting one's chassis from rusting on the inside? you can try and weld plates over all the ends, but there are going to be all
those rivet and bolt holes..
anyone know any tricks?
Seal the ends as well as you can...then stop worrying...
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andyps
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| posted on 26/6/03 at 09:07 AM |
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would the type of expanding foam used for sealing gaps around pipework in houses work to seal the ends of the tubes to stop the insides rusting?
Andy
An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less
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kingr
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| posted on 26/6/03 at 09:13 AM |
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Well, yes probably initially, but why not just weld small plates over the ends and have done with it?
Kingr
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kingr
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| posted on 26/6/03 at 09:15 AM |
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I suppose if you're particularly paranoid, you could put waxoyl or dinitrol or whatever down them.
Kingr
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