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Author: Subject: nose cone atachment
Maradona

posted on 6/9/06 at 05:07 PM Reply With Quote
nose cone atachment

How can I atach the nose cone, any ideas.

Cheers

Maradona

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nick205

posted on 6/9/06 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
bolts through the return flange of the nosecone into rivnuts in the top chassis rails
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Humbug

posted on 6/9/06 at 05:17 PM Reply With Quote
I don't have a rivnut tool so I have bolts through the top side rails, plus a bolt underneath the goes into a tab from the bottom front rail.

Other have put hinges underneath

[Edited on 06.09.2006 by Humbug]

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Maradona

posted on 6/9/06 at 05:25 PM Reply With Quote
Any pics ??
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Maradona

posted on 6/9/06 at 06:17 PM Reply With Quote
Phone number

If U have serius intentions I can give the number of one of my sisters in my avatar.

Cheers
Maradona
the hand of good

[Edited on 6/9/06 by Maradona]

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Guinness

posted on 6/9/06 at 06:35 PM Reply With Quote
I have a bolt on each side, through the return on the fibreglass into a rivnut on the top rail of the chassis and a pair of hinges on the underside of the front rail / back of the nose.


Hinge Indy Nose
Hinge Indy Nose


Allows me to hinge it forward for maintanence.

Hope that helps.


Mike






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timmy

posted on 6/9/06 at 09:51 PM Reply With Quote
I've used Dzus fasteners on mine. 2 under the chin and 2 either side of the rear (where the bonnet will go).
Seems to fit nicely.
The book shows you how to do this IIRC

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shades

posted on 6/9/06 at 10:47 PM Reply With Quote
I used 3 dzus fasteners. Also used rivnuts in other places and fitted with the homemade tool shown here:

Homemade rivnut tool

Worked really well...





Thanks
Adrian

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Marcus

posted on 7/9/06 at 12:11 PM Reply With Quote
I've done the hinge thing as described above. Makes filling water sooooo much easier. Mine's not fixed at the rear - no need, the bonnet holds it down.





Marcus


Because kits are for girls!!

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The Doc

posted on 7/9/06 at 08:28 PM Reply With Quote
I found the Dzeus fasteners to be a pain in the arse so I chopped the bayonet bits off, kept the countersunk plate and put a nice c/sunk stainless machine screw into a plate welded to upper chassis rail. This way you don't eat away at the GRP every time you turn the bolt. Lovely result but a bit pricey!
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