The Baron
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| posted on 17/9/06 at 04:07 PM |
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Pinto Ignition...........
I am now nearing the end of my build (£250 my arse!!!)
I have been struggling form day one with getting the engine to run properly.
I have fitted a pair of twin Webber 40DCOE's onto a completely standard engine.
I have therefore lost the use of my vacuum advance.
I have tried the usual tricks to advance the ignition to the magic value which nobody seems to know but with no real success.
So my question is..........
The modified distributors which can be purchased from Burton Power which remove the need for vacuum advance, do they really work. Or do I have a much
more sinister problem lurking somewhere else?
I have already fitted new plugs, leads, cap, rotor arm etc.
Any help etc is welcomed before I spend some more money......
Cheers,
The Baron
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ady8077
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| posted on 17/9/06 at 04:50 PM |
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Hi
You don't need the vac advance connected for the engine to run, what ignition system are you using?
Also are the webers jetted correctly?
Adrian
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RobBrown
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| posted on 17/9/06 at 05:17 PM |
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Firstly. Don't spend any more money just yet.
I am running a fast road Cam on a 2 litre pinto and I'm still using the standard Distributor.
You sound like you're in the same position I have been in for the past 6 months, struggling to get the Pinto running well on twin 40's
(Dellorto's not webers).
I don't know what your experience of engines is but for me it was an appreciation of the basics that was missing. All of a sudden my engine is
running 10 times better than it was doing. Not perfect by any means, but good enough to enjoy finishing off those last few little jobs before SVA
So what are those basics.
1. Timing - Make sure the cam and crank timing are at TDC and initially the Dizzy is as well.
2. Clean Carbs - Are they new or used. Make sure that all the holes are blown through with air, to make sure they are clean.
3. Jets - Make sure you have the correct jets in the carbs. I have ended up with a selection of jets/chokes and emulsion tubes
4. More recently for me, make sure the carbs are bolted correctly to the manifold. Leaks play havoc with the running
When trying to start, move the distributor small amounts between each try. If you already have a running engine then move dizzy to achieve the best
idle.
Then it should be a matter of tweaking the idle mixture screws to get a more stable idle.
I am just over the bridge just north of Chepstow. Where is South Glos are you? I'm probably close enough to pop over one afternoon and give you
some moral support if required.
I have just got hold of a carbtune kit to balance both carbs, which a difference as well.
regards
Rob
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