the_fbi
|
| posted on 17/9/06 at 04:44 PM |
|
|
Terminating copper fuel hose for FI.
Seeing as my prop/RGB isn't yet in, I'm thinking about sticking in a 2nd fuel pipe for the fuel return for when I change to injection.
If I was to drop in another length of 8mm copper, how would I terminate the end in such a way as to cope with the pressure of an EFI system.
Surely I can't just use hose clamps on the rubber hose (over the copper) without any barbs on the copper?
Or should I just put in a stainless overbraided rubber pipe from end to end for the feed and use my old copper for the return (low pressure).
ta
Chris
|
|
|
|
|
ady8077
|
| posted on 17/9/06 at 04:53 PM |
|
|
Hi
soldering an olive was suggested, see
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=51655
Adrian
|
|
|
MkIndy7
|
| posted on 17/9/06 at 04:56 PM |
|
|
I've got Rubber FI hose thats a tight fit pushed over Copper Fuel pipe with just Jubilee clips on and its held fine.
Not that thats the best or right way to do it but it does withstand the pressure ok.
|
|
|
the_fbi
|
| posted on 17/9/06 at 05:17 PM |
|
|
I've got a copper flaring tool, just didn't really think it was the best way of doing it.
No reason I can't just use a decent rubber FI hose from end to end?
|
|
|
MkIndy7
|
| posted on 17/9/06 at 05:24 PM |
|
|
Copper is probably cheeper than Rubber or Braided FI hose for doing longer runs, and would need clipping less and be more resistant to any chaffing.
|
|
|
matt_claydon
|
| posted on 17/9/06 at 07:30 PM |
|
|
I've just got hose pushed straight onto 8mm pipe and it's fine. Fore reference, the high pressure inlet on my gsxr 750 fuel rail is also
just a plain tube so suzuki must also think it's ok. Try pulling the hose off once the jubillee is done up - bet you can't!
|
|
|
MikeRJ
|
| posted on 17/9/06 at 07:55 PM |
|
|
The return pipe doesn't see any pressure anyway, it's the feed pipe you normaly have to worry about.
|
|
|
the_fbi
|
| posted on 17/9/06 at 08:05 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
The return pipe doesn't see any pressure anyway, it's the feed pipe you normaly have to worry about.
Yes, but I don't have a high pressure feed hose either, as its carbs currently.
So I need to drop a new one in. The new one will be the high pressure, the old carb feed the return.
|
|
|
Chippy
|
| posted on 17/9/06 at 10:05 PM |
|
|
I just soldered olives on the ends of all my fuel lines, and it has been totaly secure. But would agree with what others have said, you actualy dont
probabley need them, as most manufacturers just fit a straight end, and clips, and they dont come of. Belt and braces mentality. Fit 8mm copper,
easier to fit and clip, plus MUCH more Locost.  Ray
|
|
|
NS Dev
|
| posted on 18/9/06 at 02:13 PM |
|
|
just to second the others, have used plain copper 8mm pipe MANY times and never had it come off with 65psi fuel pressure.
having said that I have sometimes put a male single flare on in the past (use a 5/16" tool its nearly right) and this give a small
"bulb" on the end of the pipe for peace of mind
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
|
|
|
roadboy
|
| posted on 18/9/06 at 02:35 PM |
|
|
I have just used good quality jubilee clips, but doubled up on the clips to be safe. I tested these to 10 bar & they held up OK.
Regds
Ian
Jude Performance Services
|
|
|
wilkingj
|
| posted on 8/10/06 at 10:20 AM |
|
|
Personally I would solder an olive on the end of the copper pipe, then use a suitable rubber fuel pipe (Injection grade) and secure with jubilee
clips.
I do not beileve that a pipe secured with just a jubilee type clip and no raised section to stop it sliding off the end is secure enough. A 60psi fuel
leak makes a very dangerous flamethrower in you car. Its NOT worth risking it for a 10p olive and 1p's worth of solder and 5 minutes of time.
Even Water pipes on your car have a raised return to stop the pipes popping / sliding off the end of the metal pipe,
IMHO it costs next to nothing to do, and is a major safety issue if it all ges wrong.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
|
|
|
Syd Bridge
|
| posted on 8/10/06 at 10:47 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by the_fbi
I've got a copper flaring tool, just didn't really think it was the best way of doing it.
No reason I can't just use a decent rubber FI hose from end to end?
If you've got a flaring tool, then go to your local hydraulics place and get a flare nut and the male fitting that the nut screws on to. Put the
hose onto the male fitting and screw the lot together for a very neat setup for only a couple of £'s.
Cheers,
Syd.
|
|
|
the_fbi
|
| posted on 8/10/06 at 09:51 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Scoobylav
the_fbi for reference we are running the feed and return on our injection in rubber hose for their entire lengths. Much easier to work with than
copper pipes.
I've since gone this route. Well, purchased some rubber hose for the complete feed.
Return will be the "old" carb feed which is copper with flexi's at each end.
Just going to stick the rubber in before the rgb and props then leave it for upgrade time.
ta
Chris
|
|
|
