NS Dev
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 posted on 29/5/07 at 09:54 PM |
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Play in Cortina Wheel Bearings
Really basic question and I am most confused!!
I have changed enough taper roller wheel bearings before, but for some reason I cannot get rid of the play in my cortina front hubs!
I fitted new bearings, ages ago, and must have done them properly, but when I first ran the car they both developed a lot of play (enough to make the
brake pedal travel go long as the pads pushed back)
I discovered this and nipped them up, but now I have a slight "knock" of play which I can only get rid of by running the bearings
tight.
If I do the "torque, back off 1/4 turn, the nip by hand" approach, I end up with a significant "knock" up and down, not really
noticeable with just the brake disc and hub on, but noticeable with the wheel on.
Complicating things is in the dim and distant past I recall that one if the stubs had had a bearing spun on it and I had to use bearing fit to get a
fit, but only on one hub, and this problem is on both to an equal extent!???
Any ideas??
I think I need to pull the hubs off for a better look but this will trash the seal due to the loctite bearing fit in there stopping the inner race
coming off easily, so just wondered if there are any ideas before I start ringing up for some new uprights!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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RazMan
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 09:59 PM |
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tbh I have always just kept tightening by hand until I can get the split pin through without binding. Seems to work for me 
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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NS Dev
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 10:01 PM |
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Yea and me!!
These seem to bind before all the play is gone, I'm wondering whether the inner bearing inner races are loose on the upright 
I know I bearing fitted one of them but can't remember about tother,
think I may need some uprights!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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stevec
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 10:04 PM |
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Sounds like the end of the stub is worn and you have play between it and the inner race of the bearing.
Steve.
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mookaloid
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 10:08 PM |
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Never done cortina bearings but loads of others - never been successful with bearing fit trying to take up slack between the inner race and the stub
axle, it just isn't strong enough.
I think you're gonna have to strip and have a look.
Cheers
Mark
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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RazMan
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 10:13 PM |
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It does sound like some damage or excess wear somewhere - probably a good idea to compare them to another set or a drawing if one is available. Either
way you've got to strip it
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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MikeR
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| posted on 29/5/07 at 10:33 PM |
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After taking the mickey out of Nat all evening and flirting with his misses why he worries about the car ......... i've stuck to my word and the
bible of lies (Haynes) says for adjusting...
tighten the centre adjusting nut to 27 lb ft, slacken the nut back until an endfloat of 0.001 - 0.005 inch (0.03 - 0.13mm) is obtained. Replace nut
retainer and lock with new split pin.
assuming no torque wrench (how many times tonight did i mention a torque wrench?) tighten the centre adjusting nut until a slight drag is felt on
rotating the wheel. loosen the nut very slowly until the wheel turns freely again and there is just a percceptible endfloat. refit the retainer and
lock with new split pin
for fitting new,
torque up to 27 lb ft whilst rotating the hub and disk to ensure free movement and centralisation.
slacken back by 90 degrees which will give required endfloat (why didn't it say that before?) fit the nut retainer and split pin.
When you adjusted them tonight, did you turn the hub whilst tightening the nut ? (yeah ok, i know you've done x hundred miles on these already)
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t.j.
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 04:51 AM |
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I always tighten the bearing to lock.
Then turn nut untill the washer is moveable with a screw-driver.
the 1/4 rule doesn't work.
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CGILL
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 07:28 AM |
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possible that the hubs have something or a deformity in the machined setion that takes the bearing outer (cup), and isn't fully seated back to
the end of the machine section, so with use, the outer section of the bearing (cup) works further in towards the end, so it needs to be tweaked up
again. Have seen this before on Cortina hubs.
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02GF74
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 07:32 AM |
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it is one of 3 things.
1. outer race loose in housing
2. ball bearings/races damaged
3. innner race loose on axle
I've taken the slack out of bearings (Bikes, Land ROver and recently Cortina) merely by feel - do up the nut until all scalk is gone by wobbling
the weel t hen until a tad there is the smallest amount of slack to guard against being too tight.
Is it possible there is a washer missing so you are running out of thread when doing the nut?
Were they the right bearaing and good quality?
You will have to take the nut off and see if you can see where the play is.
Maybe if the housing is worn, you could sake them in?
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NS Dev
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 10:12 AM |
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Its not number 1 or 2, and everything is present and correct.
It doesn't feel "right" either and through the mists of two years its coming back to me that the inner bearings both sides were a
bit loose on the stub axles, so I think that's the trouble.
I've just u2u's chrisg about his uprights!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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flak monkey
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 10:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
I've just u2u's chrisg about his uprights!
Did my mates not sort you out with a set Nat?
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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NS Dev
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 11:16 AM |
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I was a bit late for the friday David, as I thought I had solved the problem with the first readjustment of the bearings, btu it now looks like I
haven't.
Is it still worth a call to them?
cheers
Nat
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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flak monkey
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 11:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
I was a bit late for the friday David, as I thought I had solved the problem with the first readjustment of the bearings, btu it now looks like I
haven't.
Is it still worth a call to them?
cheers
Nat
Send him an email on the addy i gave you, he is often over in Cov racing at the stadium, so its worth a try.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 30/5/07 at 08:09 PM |
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Is it possible to knurl the stub axle to get a good fit on the bearing?
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NS Dev
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| posted on 31/5/07 at 10:35 AM |
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might be but I'd rather it be right. Thought about building it up with a bit of weld and turning it back, but then I was worried about stress
raisers, answer is to just buy a pair of uprights i'm afraid!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/6/07 at 12:30 PM |
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Many thanks to Andrews45 on here, I collected a pair of bare uprights from him last night, also thanks the MikeR who left me out some wheel bearing
kits so I could fit new bearings and seals while it was in bits, rebuilt both front uprights and hubs in a couple of hours last night and the car is
back on the road without wobbly front wheels.
mookaloid was quite right, bearing fit had crushed in places on one side and the bearing had been moving on it.
[Edited on 6/6/07 by NS Dev]
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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