R1FREESTYLE
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| posted on 12/7/07 at 08:41 PM |
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R1 Radiator Plumbing
Hi
I am locating my rad at the front with the motor at rear. Two lengths of aluminium pipe will flow the water to and from the front.
My question is can I leave off the radiator expansion tank return pipe and vent it to the open by dropping a pipe down through under the car?
I have attached a picture with the pipe I want to leave out marked by the red arrow.
Paul
Pokin the grim reaper with a stick........then running away!
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R1FREESTYLE
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| posted on 12/7/07 at 08:46 PM |
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Pokin the grim reaper with a stick........then running away!
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 12/7/07 at 08:57 PM |
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Nope, because then it wouldnt be a pressurised cooling system!
If you want to lose that pipe, just block it up at the radiator end as some people have done, usually with a bolt or somesuch so that you can bleed
the system if necessary.
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R1FREESTYLE
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| posted on 12/7/07 at 09:48 PM |
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Doesnt the cap keep it pressurised up until the rad cap allows the system to blow off pressure above the set poundage? Just remembering how it worked
on my old mini???
Could I seal of the small pipe, seal the rad cap on and place the header in circuit at the rear of the car? But then does it go in the hot side or
cold side of the circuit?
Sorry spark by trade, hate plumbing!!
[img]ttp://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u15/R1FREESTYLE/R1PLUMBVERSION2.jpg[/img]
Pokin the grim reaper with a stick........then running away!
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R1FREESTYLE
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| posted on 12/7/07 at 09:49 PM |
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Pokin the grim reaper with a stick........then running away!
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nitram38
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 04:30 AM |
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The only problem I can see is a possible build up of air in your radiator.
Expansion tanks are not quite what they sound like. Of course they act as an expansion vessel, but more importantly, they act as a bleed off for air
that would normally move around your system or stop in different places like your rad.
If you get lots of air in the engine, your engine could get damaged. Air in your rad would reduce it's efficiecy and could cause
overheating.
I personally would run another pipe for what it is worth.
Also I would not run your bottom rad pipe through the expansion bottle like your second drawing.
A smaller tee off your bottom hose(water pipe 25mm and tee about 15mm) to the tank. You want only a small flow through the tank to allow air to
collect.
Also remember that air will collect at the highest point in the system so your tank needs to be the highest point.
I too am a spark, but experience has taught me to have as many air bleed off points as possible.
As long as these hoses are very small, you should get a slow flow that removes air.
Basically, you are creating a small bypass through the expansion bottle that should be located between the flow and return in your system. The bottom
pipe to the tank should not be so big that flow bypasses the rad, hence the smaller size compared to the main bottom rad hose. (15mm instead of
25mm).
The top hose to the tank from the thermostat and rad alows a smaller amount of flow back to the tank, removing any air aswell. This should be even
smaller that the other tee hose, perhaps 6mm.
If your rad has a rad cap, then put a higher rated cap pressure on than your expansion cap as you could find yourself loosing water from the rad and
creating an air lock in the bottle.
[Edited on 13/7/2007 by nitram38]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 07:47 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by R1FREESTYLE
Doesnt the cap keep it pressurised up until the rad cap allows the system to blow off pressure above the set poundage? Just remembering how it worked
on my old mini???
Could I seal of the small pipe, seal the rad cap on and place the header in circuit at the rear of the car? But then does it go in the hot side or
cold side of the circuit?
Sorry spark by trade, hate plumbing!!
There is no rad cap on the Polo rad, I think thats where the confusion is coming in, you need a pressure cap on the expansion tank in my drawing
above.
The small outlet you've highlighted is actually a bleed to allow air to escape from the top of the rad, hence why if you block it off its a good
idea to do it with something that can still allow you to bleed out the excess air.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 07:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by R1FREESTYLE
The re-routing of the bottom hose like this won't work very well, because the expansion / header tank needs to be the highest point in the
system, hence why Ive T'd into the bottom hose to feed the water in.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 09:54 AM |
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BTW if its the amount of Samco hose you'll need to buy that you're trying to minimise, for the main stretch from front to back just use a
length of kunifer fuel pipe or some fairly small bore (maybe 5mm) aluminium tube from B&Q or similar, you can buy it in 2m lengths and if
you're careful you can even bend it round things, then just have a couple of rubber hoses either end.
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