MK chippy
|
| posted on 21/9/08 at 11:00 PM |
|
|
propshaft?
Hi guys im building an mk indy with an R1 engine and will eventually need to get a propshaft made up but dont know where to go and what info i will
need?
Any help would be great!
Cheers
Dave
|
|
|
|
|
PAUL FISHER
|
| posted on 21/9/08 at 11:44 PM |
|
|
It depends how much you want to spend realy,the cheapest option 1,is if you get a old sierra propshaft,give it to mk,tell them the lenght from your
diff pinion flange to your gearbox output adaptor,they will shorten your prop,and fit a new universal joint.
Or option 2 is to get one made up by a proshaft company,like bailey and morris.
Or opyion 3 the most expensive option,is get one made up by a company like bailey and morris,but have a torque resilient tube built into it,this will
reduce the strain on the gearbox and final drive,and will also reduce the clucking noise you often get with BEC.
Costs OPTION 1 around £100
OPTION 2 around £180
OPTION 3 around £280
|
|
|
Paul TigerB6
|
| posted on 22/9/08 at 07:22 AM |
|
|
I'd strongly suggest option 3 if you can stretch to it. As said it will reduce the strain on your gearbox so hopefully will pay for itself in
the long term.
|
|
|
Richard Quinn
|
| posted on 22/9/08 at 08:15 AM |
|
|
Also a vote for option 3 (but from Dunning and Fairbank - Top blokes!)
|
|
|
PeterW
|
| posted on 22/9/08 at 09:19 AM |
|
|
Sorry for the hijack...
I've got to get mine sorted too, but due to having a Tiger Cat and a 'Blade engine I can't get a straight line between engine and
prop.
Most props I have seen use UJ's - is there any value, or is it possible to use CV joints as I am sure someone has said they are more resilient
to constantly running out of line.
Any cooments or am I talking ballcocks..?
Peter
|
|
|
Richard Quinn
|
| posted on 22/9/08 at 09:33 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by PeterW
use CV joints as I am sure someone has said they are more resilient to constantly running out of line.
Yes, but not at the speed that a propshaft turns at!
|
|
|
hobbsy
|
| posted on 22/9/08 at 09:44 AM |
|
|
Going slightly off topic here but is it cost effective to modify an existing prop (like the one on my R1 Fury) to be a TRT prop?
I understand the concept but not 100% on how its implemented.
Or is it more cost effective to give them the existing one to copy the dims from but make a new one from scratch and sell the old one?
Any idea of costs?
I've emailed Dunning and Fairbank as someone else said they were good too.
--
UPDATE: Just heard back from Jon Dunning (quick response!) and he said £145 + VAT + carriage to modify the existing or £265 for a new one (+ VAT as
well I assume).
Might go for that then, spesh if its going to look after my gearbox a bit better 
[Edited on 22/9/08 by hobbsy]
|
|
|
marmot0
|
| posted on 22/9/08 at 10:19 AM |
|
|
Got mine made up for £160 with trt from JWE engineering, the turned it around in 24 hours
|
|
|
hobbsy
|
| posted on 22/9/08 at 10:49 AM |
|
|
Hmm, cheers for the reply Marmot (I'm going to cut off your Johnson!!!) I'll give them an email as well.
So that was £160 as an outright purchase with TRT?
|
|
|
Bob C
|
| posted on 22/9/08 at 11:58 AM |
|
|
Couple of things; 1) round here there seem to be an endless number of small propshaft companies (OK I regularly see 3....) any of which will mate a
prop to you diff & engine flanges, balance it & worry about critical speeds for you, all for rather less than the "big names"
(e.g. the last prop I bought was about £60 brand new)
2) Instead of a TRT I used the standard sierra "donut" rotoflex - it's still there, working fine, after 650 whole miles!!!
Actually they're quite expensive new - about £45 from memory
|
|
|
