Well, ive had nearly a week of no rain!a couple of small problems, the 13xflow seems to get quite hot when running, mainly when its idling, and I had a wing stay break while driving, i was lucky to not damage the wing, repaired it now, it came from Stuart Taylor

Put an expansion tank in the line somewhere, above the head (scuttle) it's probably down to air locks. I run a 1700 x-flow with a Micra rad and it struggles to get up to temp. See my website for pics. Oh and everyone breaks at least one stay, it's Locost law! I went to France and back with only one! The broken one was strapped to the spare wheel!
Chris PTM

Whats your website then?

Click on the picture of the house under PTM's posts, it says "web" above it

There is a known "Over cooling" problem on W*stfields
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/oakwood_data/overcooling.htm

Although this relates to Zetec, the principle may be the same .. . Worth a read

Ill Check that site out, Ive fitted a VW header tank, seems to bleed air off ok, but i have cooked/destroyed 2 thermo swithches.... not sure why yet.

on the subject of header tanks on crossflows my water expert(hicost) corectly diagnosed my water problem, (i was overheating) so off came the header tank, small hose from the top of the water pump goes to the inlet manifold, and a fiesta filler cap with radiator cap fitted on the top in place of the xflow themostat housing has cured all known problems, it also means that i do not have to take the nosecone off everytime to fill/check the rad

but also my great buddy "locodude" does have a header tank and his car seems to be fine
so there does not seem to be any right or wrong way

Yep, no probs so far. Pipe goes from inlet manifold to tank (highest point in system) and then to the pump. The temp only ever goes above 'normal' in standing traffic.

Has anyone had problem with clutch cables in floor mounted pedal boxes? a few miles and i broke a new one! not touching anywhere or rubbing, seemed to pull the end off. Put a nother new one on and lasted, still on there....faulty cable maybe?

Hi, am I right in saying that your car is a Stuart Taylor? If thats right, then would you recommend it ove3r something else, like a MK??

Its sort of a Stuart Taylor, I built the chassis and used his bodywork and suspension.

MK, Stuart Taylor i say are as good as each other, never really seen an MK close up.

I had all the same problems in my first few weeks on the road last year with my crossflow powered car.

Overheating; cured by replacing old escort rad with Micra rad (already had a header tank.)

Broken (fatigue cracked) n/s wingstay; cured by welding an extra 12mm x 3mm strip along all wing struts to stiffen and smooth any abrupt changes in thickness (fatigue-sensitive details).

Cracked (fatigued) wingstay/hub bolts; solved by replacing lock nuts with spacer tubes.

Broken clutch cable with floor mounted pedals; cause - pedal end of cable had been pinched up too tight, so not free to rotate on its pivot - the cable was flexing instead of staying straight when the pedal was pressed; solved by new cable and a looser lock nut at the pedal end.

Feel better?

Dave

yeah but......bet you havnt split your ali panel where the exhaust bracket is fitted, i didnt use a steel bracket on the chassis

Bummer hope it didn't need repanelling.

No, I bracketed mine into a chassis tube.... it cracked the manifold instead!

the rubber mounting bushes were ok but the back end of the silencer was too close (1/2") to my mounting bracket so when it got hot it could only expand 1/2" at the free end before locking and pushing hard on the manifold/engine end too.

Repeated thermal stressing and vibration got to it. It kept cracking and I welded it a few times before I sussed it. Duuh! Pre-deflecting the rubber bushes now works fine. One day I'll reorganise it properly. Meanwhile the weather's too good to bother....