hi peeps, my luego book chassis with sierra uprights and mushroom inserts, seems to be hard work when driving. anyone out there using the same setup have any tips on the best setup? the hole is offset on the thing and im not sure where the best position for it is. ta

dos this affect the castor??? oh by the way i have virtualy no self centering this aint right is it

[Edited on 27/2/05 by billy]

you will have zero self centre when set up proper, if your front track is out it will feel very unstable, (especially if you have excessive toe out) it will feel like it has a mind of its own wandering around left or right and giving you no confidence, advise you have it checked and set up some where if you have'nt allready

i saw dez hamill today, he looked at it and said im suprised you aint crashed it yet, ive set the tracking parallel using some high tech 7x1 prepared timber. im just starting to wonder if thats wot they drive like im not impressed

set up proper it will be like a dart, not sure timber will give you accurate settings, a starter maybe but not the finished article,

Sevens tend to have 'lively' handling, and the steering is very much 'point and shoot' when set up properly. It can be a bit of a shock after driving a FWD spam-can. It took me a while to get familiar with mine, then I found it very enjoyable.

If you feel that you don't have confidence in your car, or it's hard work to drive, then I suggest that there's something significantly wrong with its setup. Are you very far from Luego? Maybe they can help you out, or at least offer advice - it's in their own interest to assist you.

Being so light, seven's are sensitive to minor setup changes - damper settings, camber, toe-in etc. Perhaps getting the toe-in set properly by a friendly local garage may help. Cost me £10 when I had it done.

Good luck,

David

[Edited on 27/2/05 by David Jenkins]

If you have set it up paralell statically, it will be toeing out when in motion, you need a little toe in to compensate. If you set the mushrooms holes forward, you will not affect the castor, but will give some trail due to the stub axle being behind the line behind the line drawn between the upper and lower balljoints. This will accentuate the toe out in motion trait, so you will need to add even more toe in to get a parallel toe in motion. This MAY give you some self centring

im not sure but most of the wishbones to take the sierra uprights are the wider track compared to when you use cortina uprights, now i have the shorter wishbones and in using sierra uprights. ive almost ran out of thread on the escort steering rack im using. Mark im not sure what you mean the tracking changes when your moving? by the way the wheelbase on the front is 75mm narrower on the front to the rear, is this good????

I don't think the track difference should be a problem.

Rear wheel drive cars are set up with toe in and front drive cars are set with toe out (certain exeptions). This is to compensate for the dynamic effect which forces the wheels in or out, the theory is to have the wheel parallel when the car is in motion. (race cars alter this to alter the turn in characteristic, but they also have a new set of tyres for every meeting).

By wheelbase I think you actually mean track ? Wheelbase is length wise, track is width -- To answer your question a track difference front and rear makes a lot less difference than you would expect

Check list --- for alignment & geometry checks car should be laden


Dampers --- again because it is a very light car start testing with a very soft setting
Camber -0.5 to -1.25 (ie wheel out at bottom)
Toe-in --- say 1/8" (0.2mm) +- 1/16" (should always be toe in ).
Also jack up the car and check the steering wheel turns freelly from lock to lock without binding at either full lock or "lumpyness".
Binding on ful lock indicates a maladjusted or bent rack, lumpyness indicates binding column universal joints.

thanks alot lads for help, mrG drove it today and says he thinks its alot better now so im going in the right direction