Hey everyone. As you may know, I built, drove and sold my car a while ago now so this may seem like a bit of an odd question, but...

What's your car (Indy or otherwise) like to drive? When I had mine I loved it but it never felt as easy to drive as normal road cars. Specifically I mean the steering wheel was very hard to turn (worse than a normal car without power steering, lots of self-centre), and I found it quite hard to drive smoothly (when I came off the accelerator the car would slow down very suddenly).

I was wondering if these are common issues or if I just didn't spend enough time setting mine up properly?

The reason I ask is I'm getting an itchy trigger foot and am tempted to maybe consider possibly building a bike engined car... potentially... some time in the future

Any help greatly appreciated

Pete

My steering is so light I can drive with just 1 hand if I feel brave! I certainly do if I'm cruising/only pushing on a bit. The engine braking will be much more effective than your used to due to the light weight of the car compared to the donor, mine is, and I have a bike engine.

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Originally posted by scoobyis2cool
Specifically I mean the steering wheel was very hard to turn (worse than a normal car without power steering, lots of self-centre)

I was wondering if these are common issues or if I just didn't spend enough time setting mine up properly?

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Yeah I pretty much expected that to be the case with the engine braking. After a bit of practice I got used to it but the steering thing was something I never liked. Interesting that your steering is so light, sounds like I probably just needed to do some more setup on the suspension, but by that time I'd done so much work on it I just wanted to drive it!

Out of interest, what size tyres are you using?

Pete

Mine shows the same tendancies as your car.

Steering is heavier than a tintop but then I don't have power steering and the wheel is 260mm diameter

The car slows very quickly with just engine braking and catches some tintop drivers out

Also the car will "kangaroo" down the road if power isn't applied very smoothly. I think this is partially because of the very light pedal return spring I have fitted.

Hmm another person with light steering, maybe I was the exception! I can't remember now what I set my toe to, I did change it after the SVA but I don't think I set it to zero. I also seem to remember I adjusted the caster quite a bit for the SVA.

In a way I'm disappointed because now I'm going to have to find another 6 grand from somewhere, and persuade my Dad to give me the garage again!

Pete

My steering is heavy when stationary or going very slow - once I'm past 10 mph it's just right for me. Not feather-light, but certainly not heavy. The questions I would ask are: did you have big tyres? was the wheel offset correct? were the basic settings correct (toe-in, castor, camber)?

As for slowing down when the throttle is lifted - engine braking has much more effect due to the low weight of the car, but nothing that causes me any grief or problems.

David

Our wheels are Sierra fitment, and 195/50/15's

Maybe it isin't quite Zero Toe but its certainly getting that way!

As mentioned elsewhere it is pretty heavy when Stationery but thats to be expected with such a small steering wheel, but certainly no complaints when moving.

Sierra fitment wheel here too. I have quite a large steering wheel for a seven, but I prefer it that way as I don't have to concentrate so hard when playing as I find it easier to control, as a slight turn is just that. Others prefer small wheels for precisely the opposite reason.

Sorted my castor angles out, so no problems here
I bought a 2nd hand 5 wheel hpa tracking machine, so I know it drives straight aswell.
Most problems are caused by the castor centering bodges. There should be a "sticky" at the start of the forum because this comes up too often and normally when peoples cars are ready for sva!
As for Toe in, almost all rwd cars need it.
0.25-0.5 degrees per side.
When a car is powered from the rear, the front tyres splay outwards slightly causing lack of grip and higher tyre wear. If you toe your wheels inwards to start with, then this splaying brings the wheels to straight ahead under power.......make sense?



[Edited on 15/2/2007 by nitram38]

Hi,

Steering on ours is reasonably light.

As others have said, engine braking is fairly pronounced, I have found that just lifting off the throttle usally slows you enough and that you only really work the brakes when you are pressing on.

Simon

steering was light on my r1 indy and it never slowed down quick

on the next one get it set up

My mate was disappointed with his kit after he drove my Locost. Mine is light and has a degree of self centre and you can slide the back out and bring it back in line easily. He complained of the weight of his steering but he stuck 205s on the front so what does he expect. I set my camber to zero and toe in with two pieces of angle iron on the wheel studs 3mm less at 1metre down the angle iron, not sure of the degrees but it works for me.

I had 195s with 50 profile on mine which isn't excessive but if I did it again I think I'd be tempted to go for some narrower ones with a higher profile. I chose them originally because I wanted to get as much dry grip as I could but now I think I'd probably have more fun with a touch less grip and a more gentle breakaway because I could slide it around a bit easier.

Also I think I'd definitely need to spend more time setting it up, I did have a go at it last time so it wasn't ignored completely but next time I'll have to be a bit more rigorous.

I always thought these cars were probably capable of much nicer handling than mine, glad to see it's been confirmed, now I just have to find the funds for another!

Pete

Interesting observations in a Lotus Seven book i was given for my birthday, it concludes that most people prefered (they tried each others cars) 185 60 13 in the lighter cars, i am looking at 6x14's and no more than 195-60's.

I've got very old-fashioned 185/70 x 13" on mine - the higher profile helps the suspension absorb bumps, and they are very predictable. My favourite game is hanging the tail out on a couple of local roundabouts - easy to bring it back in line when I've finished.

I read this with interest...having not yet driven mine yet, only up and down the drive!

handles like a big gokart,iv set the suspension quite hard and used an inch shorter springs front and back.the rides a little hard for our roads but great on the track.
found my limit before iv found the cars

My steering is light, with toe set at 2mm, I expected when I changed to 205 x 40 x 17's that it would make it heavy, but absolutely no change. The only thing it has done is increase the self centering a little. One thing I have to be a bit careful about is changing down, especialy in the wet, when doing any sort of speed, as it will skid the back wheels, ( makes for some interesting driving). Regards, Ray

Never did get my tracking done (professionally, though I did try with a laser pointer and some timber). Think I may still have a little toe out at front so very responsive (read twitchy on straight roads!!). Steering quite heavy at low speeds, but with my engine and wheel/tyre combo couldn't expect anything else.

Engine is as smooth as you like. Pull away in 2nd or 3rd depending how lazy you're feeling, into 5th at 20, and it just pulls Is very undergeared with 3.92 diff though.

Quite pleased with first effort at building car, just looking forward to getting turbo's and 2.88 diff on (and tracking done) then back on road in next month or so

ATB

Simon

I'm just making a statement here alright, so please don't flame me, but Cateringvan don't put very big wheel/tyre combos on their cars, neither did Sylva with the striker. I think the temptation to follow tintop fashion and put ever bigger wheels/lower profile tyres is one to avoid as you will tend to get heavier steering.
As for the engine braking issue, get used to it and revel in it! My 'family car' is a Citroen Xsara Picasso and it drives me mad as the ECU is programmed for anti-stall and keeps the revs up, only letting them drop slowly. Result? Hardly any engine braking











Oh, and yes, you will have to build another one

Going to get mine set up around spring time, so its ready for the good weather. At the moment it handles well, but its not exactly confidence inspiring. Went out the other day and had a bit of a moment mid corner when I was pressing on and went over a bump. It was very greasy on the roads though.

I think a corner weight and tracking session will improve it no end, hoping anyway!

Also going to go for a quicker rack, almost put my shoulder out a few times correcting slides, need a smaller wheel too.