Kaspa
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 03:07 AM |
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new member, new build
Guys [and girls of course] just thought I'd join up and introduce myself, as a fellow nut with the Mid engined, mid life crisis.
I am in the process of building a track only car with a mid mounted Mitsibushi 4G63 2ltr turbo power plant, i have got to the stage of finalising
chassis design and its now all tacked together ready for final welding. plenty of pics of build todate here.
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/
http://
look fowared to your opinions
Cheers Kaspa
[Edited on 29/1/08 by Kaspa]
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Alan B
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 03:18 AM |
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Hi John, glad you took my advice and are sharing your work on here amongst fellow midi-nutters....looks great..
Alan
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Kaspa
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 03:55 AM |
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JRC
Thanks Alan , yeh i took your advice, even at our age all help and advice is welcome thats for sure, and this seems to be the place for both
Cheers John
[Edited on 29/1/08 by Kaspa]
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TheGecko
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 06:20 AM |
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G'day Kaspa,
Good to see you in here. This has become my usual hangout for mid-engined-ness now - OzClubbies is fine for local activity and parts but
there's much more middy builders here.
Dominic
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russbost
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 08:10 AM |
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Welcome to the loony bin - good to see we're getting a few more people who understand which end the engine is meant to go!!!
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Fred W B
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 08:35 AM |
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Welcome from me too.
You can tell the guys in the colonies, we have some space to work in
You might want to do yourself a favour, and make a sturdy bench on castors that you can position near where you are working on the chassis, so you can
put the tools and parts on it, so you don't have to bend down all the time.
We trust you are going to be adding a few diagionals around the engine bay?
Cheers
Fred W B
[Edited on 29/1/08 by Fred W B]
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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Kaspa
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 08:43 AM |
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new build
Hi guys thanks for the welcome , great to see some familiar faces , Dominic and Doug , from Aus ,
re more diags in engine bay , yes a few more have been added, i posted the wrong pic, it should be a stiff as a school boy on his first date now.
, lateste pics on the photo bucket site
Cheers Kaspa
[Edited on 29/1/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 08:53 AM |
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welcome, welcome, welcome.
ditch
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Dom9
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 09:00 AM |
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Looks fantastic - Please keep us updated!
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RazMan
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 10:42 AM |
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Woohoo! another middy 
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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CraigJ
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 04:44 PM |
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Is it an EVO engine you are using? what gearbox is bolted to it?
Looks great by the way.
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Kaspa
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| posted on 29/1/08 at 10:14 PM |
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Hi Graig, yeh its an evo 3, i have had to find and use a Sigma turbo FWD box, and change flywheel to suite, as cost of locking up the 3rd diff in 4WD
box was way over the top. otherwise its all pretty straight foward. only down side will be the rear COG will be a bit higher than i would have liked,
due to axe centre line on gearbox being below the crank centre line.
but its just one of those things you have to live with going this way i suppose.
should be a fun beast though, even with a min weight penalty in class of 700kg.
cheers Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Kaspa
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| posted on 30/1/08 at 08:32 AM |
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spent acouple of hrs this arvo playing with seat and fuel cell. whats the concencos of opinion of having the fuel cell in behind the seat,like
this,
there will be a fire wall between me and the cell, also radiator, it will be angled in slightly ,but should i tilt it, or is it ok vertical.
some times you just cant see the forest for the trees, either that or i'm just getting old.
appreciate your thoughts.
Cheers Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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RazMan
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| posted on 30/1/08 at 08:54 AM |
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The radiator would benefit from a 20 degree tilt as it apparently maximises the exposure of the fins to airflow.
The fuel cell is perfect where you have mounted it, keeping the weight central and low, but have you considered changing the shape to more of a wedge?
This would give a bit more clearance between your seat and maximise the space for a bit more fuel if required - that looks a bit 'sharp'
up against the seat like that, although I appreciate it will be behind a firewall 
[Edited on 30-1-08 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Kaspa
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| posted on 30/1/08 at 09:14 AM |
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Thanks for that Raz, i should have known without asking, so a few degrees off the straight and narrow it is, Fuel cell is a 14ltr Jaz, and theres
about 30mm clearance behind the seat where its sitting temporarly.
getting there slowly,
one other thought for the masses, doing my rear wheel position mock up and oh dear its wider than i thought it would be, rear track will be 1620mm
with an overall on 10" tyres of 1880mm, at least it should go round cnrs, thoughts
cheers Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Delinquent
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| posted on 30/1/08 at 10:49 AM |
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Best place for the fuel cell, keeps it nicely out of the way of impact damage. Nice looking project!
Could I ask you to chop your avatar to make it a little smaller though, it's taking up half the page on my screen and making things a bit...
cramped!
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TheGecko
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| posted on 30/1/08 at 01:03 PM |
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Kaspa,
Here's a smaller version (cropped and shrunk) of your avatar image - a bit more screen friendly.
Dominic
 
Rescued attachment JohnSteiner-1.jpg
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Doug68
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| posted on 30/1/08 at 01:29 PM |
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Hi Kaspa, welcome to the forum!
The fuel tank is exactly where I plan to put mine, its ended up triangular in cross section to get it to fit nicely behind the seats.
My car is going to end up ~1950 wide, 2m is LMP max right? Qualify well and then weave!
One question I have is why theres such an apparent big gap between the front of the engine and the main roll loop?
Your fellow Kiwi John Britten had genius ideas regarding a lot of things and radiator location was one of them.
Somewhere in this picture there's a radiator 1/4 the size of what is normally used. Personally I think if ducted properly the orientation of
the radiator is irrelevant. But I am sure someone will be along shortly to disagree with me!
[Edited on 30/1/08 by Doug68]
Doug. 1TG
Sports Car Builders WA
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Kaspa
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| posted on 30/1/08 at 06:49 PM |
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Sorry about the Avatar size, i linked to the smallest one i had, thanks Dom, your a whizz, have loaded up your one , Monty looks much better.
Doug re gap, thats just what i ended up with after setting wheel base to desired length, it could have gone another 200mm fowared to get optimum seat
position, balance etc, but to late now. plus if i win Lotto i will have room to fit an Ftr box behind it, i wish.
so now i will have to make some new front wish bones and widen the front track, or it'll look and handle like a Billy cart, who said this was
easy, i just hope I'm still mobile enough to get into it by the time its finnished.
BTW in case your wondering what the car is in my Avatar, link to build diary here
http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r197/Monty155/
its a monster Fraser clubman with almost 300hp, and all the toys.
cheers Kaspa
[Edited on 30/1/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Ratman
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| posted on 1/2/08 at 09:24 AM |
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Hi Kaspa... I've been reading posts and catching up. great build you have going there. Are you planning to race it? Why I ask is that if you are
then you will need to have the roll protection certified. You probably know this.. but this can be a real struggle if you don't use a std plan
using specified materials. I got round this by just cutting off the half cage I had and getting a certified guy to weld in a new one. Your's is
integral with the frame... the best way to go... so it would be a real chore to have to replace it at some stage in the future.
Cheers, Brian
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Kaspa
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| posted on 1/2/08 at 06:59 PM |
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Brian , i agree on that one, thats why i had the cage made up by the guy in Palmy that dose them for Saker cars, its all to spec so shouldnt pose a
problem.
started the enviable chore of welding it all up yeserday, why did i fit so many tubes guess what I'm doing this weekend.
Cheers kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Ratman
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| posted on 1/2/08 at 07:48 PM |
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Deviating from the topic a bit.. Monty, the car in your avitar, could be run with either the "wedge" front end or a conventional 7
nosecone, I believe. How much difference did the wedge make in top speed and lap times on the track? Is this a good alternative for a 7?
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Kaspa
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| posted on 2/2/08 at 05:30 AM |
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Hi Brian, yes the wedgy splitter is a add on, we can still refit the orig nose for road use as its still a road car
we did one race at taupo with the orig nose and top speed of the end of the back straight was 19kph down and 6 sec a lap slower, so yeh it works, we
have taken a mould of it and they are available at a reasnable price if anyones interested.
have sold two already ,one to Auck and one to Aussie.
have made a bit of progress on the Mongrel, chassis is all welded up, and two thirds done with making new longer front wishbones, just one top one to
go
with a bit of luck il get that done tomorrow.
Brian if you look in the directory of the C.C.C., book [Spare Parts] you should find my ph number
give me a call re the splitter.
you can see in the back ground why we did the last race without the splitter, throttle jammed took to the grass and tore the floor off it b#gger,
cheers Kaspa
[Edited on 2/2/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Ratman
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| posted on 2/2/08 at 05:58 AM |
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that much difference with the wedge! That should make a few Locost build plans get an update.
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Kaspa
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| posted on 2/2/08 at 06:18 AM |
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Brian to give you a better idea, data off the data logger from turn 9 at taupo.
with splitter , 4th gear, 81% throttle 172kph, 1.6g
with out splitter, conventional 7 nose
3rd gear 88% throttle,151 kph 1.2 g and just starting to push.[understeer]
thats with a rear wing as well dont forget. but it dose make a huge difference. the biggest noticable one is the car dosnt get light and scary as
7's do at top end
cheers Kaspa
PS tried to ring you but keep getting Fax?
[Edited on 2/2/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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