Krismc
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| posted on 3/6/11 at 07:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by lucy
quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
Nope it'd the bolt head that hits chassis ,so unavoidable, I've mention a few times but I keep getting told its my setup, but either way
it catches. Unless I preload the spring a lot more so that its more difficult, but still happens when I lift car up!!
Can MNR give you a clue as to what is wrong with your setup?
Which part of the rocker is hitting the chassis?
If it's hitting on full droop I presume the only thing you can adjust is the pushrod. The damper is the correct length I assume? Mine is 12in on
the front for my bec. What length and poundage springs do you have?
The head of the top inner bolt is hitting the chassis under droop on the RHS, it was hitting on both sides before i had repair now its hitting on rhs
only.
Im not keen on this so called adjustable suspension, that cant be adjusted, its set to what ever works and no way is it adjustable.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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lucy
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| posted on 4/6/11 at 10:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
quote:
Originally posted by lucy
quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
Nope it'd the bolt head that hits chassis ,so unavoidable, I've mention a few times but I keep getting told its my setup, but either way
it catches. Unless I preload the spring a lot more so that its more difficult, but still happens when I lift car up!!
Can MNR give you a clue as to what is wrong with your setup?
Which part of the rocker is hitting the chassis?
If it's hitting on full droop I presume the only thing you can adjust is the pushrod. The damper is the correct length I assume? Mine is 12in on
the front for my bec. What length and poundage springs do you have?
The head of the top inner bolt is hitting the chassis under droop on the RHS, it was hitting on both sides before i had repair now its hitting on rhs
only.
Im not keen on this so called adjustable suspension, that cant be adjusted, its set to what ever works and no way is it adjustable.
Does your front suspension look like the second photo at the start of the thread? Are we talking about the driver's side?
I would jack up the car and measure the overall length of the shocker from centre to centre of bolts either end. I also presume it's the bolt at
the top of the shocker we are talking about hitting the chassis.
You're right that at full droop the rocker arm position will be determined by the open length of the shocker. Adjusting the preload won't
effect it. Adjusting the pushrod will alter the height of the chassis from the floor but not the rocker position when at full droop.
Do you have a photo?
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Krismc
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 07:33 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by lucy
quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
quote:
Originally posted by lucy
quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
Nope it'd the bolt head that hits chassis ,so unavoidable, I've mention a few times but I keep getting told its my setup, but either way
it catches. Unless I preload the spring a lot more so that its more difficult, but still happens when I lift car up!!
Can MNR give you a clue as to what is wrong with your setup?
Which part of the rocker is hitting the chassis?
If it's hitting on full droop I presume the only thing you can adjust is the pushrod. The damper is the correct length I assume? Mine is 12in on
the front for my bec. What length and poundage springs do you have?
The head of the top inner bolt is hitting the chassis under droop on the RHS, it was hitting on both sides before i had repair now its hitting on rhs
only.
Im not keen on this so called adjustable suspension, that cant be adjusted, its set to what ever works and no way is it adjustable.
Does your front suspension look like the second photo at the start of the thread? Are we talking about the driver's side?
I would jack up the car and measure the overall length of the shocker from centre to centre of bolts either end. I also presume it's the bolt at
the top of the shocker we are talking about hitting the chassis.
You're right that at full droop the rocker arm position will be determined by the open length of the shocker. Adjusting the preload won't
effect it. Adjusting the pushrod will alter the height of the chassis from the floor but not the rocker position when at full droop.
Do you have a photo?
Definatly got the right shockers and springs, MNR just fitted them few weeks back. ill sort out a picture when im next in garage.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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daniel mason
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 09:23 AM |
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are your rockers on the right way round kris?
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Krismc
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 02:57 PM |
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Yip, Every thing is how it should be and all the correct bits and the right way round, MNR reassembled the front end the other week - ive just got it
back so going to reassemble the car and noticed it catches- so was concerned!
here are the pics..............
LHS.....
RHS.........
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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daniel mason
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 04:07 PM |
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looks like the pushrods need winding out a bit and suspension adjusting to suit. windind the rods out should give you a bit more clearence! unless the
pushrods are actually too short. its hard to tell from the pics.
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Johneturbo
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 05:52 PM |
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Big Lee, what is the ride height of yours at the rear? i thought i'd set mine up right untill i had it corner weighted by matt at procomp, the
rear springs arn't even loose when i jack the rear end up now.
i've also gone to 175lb rear and 125lb front for a bit more complience on the road, its a little bit understeery on roundAbouts, but my fillings
are staying in
[Edited on 5/6/11 by Johneturbo]
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Krismc
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 06:38 PM |
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125lb on front, wow!! my CEC has 250 cant believe you running half!
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 06:42 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
looks like the pushrods need winding out a bit and suspension adjusting to suit. windind the rods out should give you a bit more clearence! unless the
pushrods are actually too short. its hard to tell from the pics.
Yea, but the spring will always try to push the, damper to full extension and therefore the rocker arm against the chassis in full droop, no matter
what the setting.
How much thread/tension do you have on you front springs with the push rods level?
My bloody manual doesnt have the section on setting up the front suspension, well it doesnt have anything for my car really, it might as well be for a
differant make..... differant brackets, differant hubs, differant rear end, outboard, bike engined. hmm
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Johneturbo
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 06:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
125lb on front, wow!! my CEC has 250 cant believe you running half!
125lb for a 475kg car 250lb for a 950kg car 
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Johneturbo
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 06:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Krismc
quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
looks like the pushrods need winding out a bit and suspension adjusting to suit. windind the rods out should give you a bit more clearence! unless the
pushrods are actually too short. its hard to tell from the pics.
Yea, but the spring will always try to push the, damper to full extension and therefore the rocker arm against the chassis in full droop, no matter
what the setting.
How much thread/tension do you have on you front springs with the push rods level?
My bloody manual doesnt have the section on setting up the front suspension, well it doesnt have anything for my car really, it might as well be for a
differant make..... differant brackets, differant hubs, differant rear end, outboard, bike engined. hmm
The front of mine with the car on the jack will almost hit the chassis, i turned the bolt around so the slimmer head was nearer the chassis, but it
would never get that close driving on the road, unless i went 4x4 of roading!
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Johneturbo
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| posted on 5/6/11 at 06:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by lucy
As marc n said; 1/3 travel in bump
2/3 travel in droop
marc n - I'm struggling to see how the situation will be better when the suspension has settled. The shock length won't change and the
spring may shorten making things worse not better (if there is slack in the spring at the moment, that will get worse, or am I missing something?)
I think what marc means is about Big lee's ride height, he's saying its to high so has had to lower the platforms, but over time the
springs will sag a little to allow him to raise the platforms
[Edited on 5/6/11 by Johneturbo]
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procomp
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| posted on 6/6/11 at 07:11 PM |
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Hi
If you are running the STD supplied protechs from MNR fitted to the inboard front end you will suffer all sorts of problems with picking a spring
poundage to suit. This is due to the STD supplied protech being way way over valved for the application of inboard use due to the more direct acting
nature of the ratio. You can change 50Lb on poundage and not see any real difference to the handling due to the damper being the over riding
factor.
Hence we have developed a front end damper and spring package on one of the MNR'S that is running very successful now it's sorted in one
the northern spring championships. This has now been fitted to a few road cars also and works very well.
Cheers Matt
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daniel mason
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| posted on 6/6/11 at 07:56 PM |
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do you have any more info on this matt? and would you be interested in doing a full suspension and geo setting on my mnr once iva'd later this
year? thanks
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ffrgtm
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| posted on 8/6/11 at 04:15 PM |
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So you guys have better valving that taking into account the motion ratios of a pushrod setup.... I'm sitting here a little confused as to how
mnr could accidentally valve the shocks for an outboard setup when one of the primary factors when doing valving is the motion ratio itself....
Have anything figured out for the rear? What's your take on that problem?
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lucy
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| posted on 11/6/11 at 10:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Johneturbo
quote:
Originally posted by lucy
As marc n said; 1/3 travel in bump
2/3 travel in droop
marc n - I'm struggling to see how the situation will be better when the suspension has settled. The shock length won't change and the
spring may shorten making things worse not better (if there is slack in the spring at the moment, that will get worse, or am I missing something?)
I think what marc means is about Big lee's ride height, he's saying its to high so has had to lower the platforms, but over time the
springs will sag a little to allow him to raise the platforms
[Edited on 5/6/11 by Johneturbo]
Perhaps I've missed the point here but if the ride height is too high now, it will still be too high if the springs settle and the platforms are
raised to compensate.
Lets put it another way. Would shorter shocks and springs make the ride height lower and therefore not too high? Or is that too simplistic?
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