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Author: Subject: A new build - mx5/Sierra rear end question.
Slimy38

posted on 25/4/15 at 05:25 PM Reply With Quote
I think I'd prefer the longer diff casing bolts to be honest. The only thing to consider is that they're not terribly big and very close to the edge. Comparing them to the large bolts that fit the arms (and the leverage of the arms themselves) I don't know whether it would be enough? If you could do it from one plate (5mm maybe) then I'd be happier.

Putting bolts through the aluminium webbing of the case just seems like a bad idea. With the diff casing prone to cracking in standard fit, I'd worry about the load through a much weaker part. Then again, there's no mention on the blog that he had to do anything about it so I guess it works.

I'm no engineer though, that's just my humble opinion

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Mudchute

posted on 25/4/15 at 05:45 PM Reply With Quote
I think the torque of the ending will put a lot of strain through those long castings and try and twist the diff out of them?

I lost the ebay auction. I think a trip to machine mart is on the cards. There's no decent used welders for quite some distance.

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dubzter

posted on 25/4/15 at 08:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
I went for Talon's cover, it mounts really well. And it means you can revert to the standard Sierra sized wishbones and put the geometry back to the original. Not that I'm saying the short arms are bad, but I have to be honest it didn't sit well with me. Combine that with what Stot said about mounting the standard diff and the solution from Talon just makes a whole lot of sense.

This is the cover as it arrived, and fitted in place of the standard cover;




These are the mounting lugs, they're actually the Sierra diff plates chopped up!! (waste not, want not)



Painted and fitted;



And another view. Note the cage, it's from the original Haynes design so the wishbones will have the same bracket points;



[Edited on 24/4/15 by Slimy38]


I'd be really interested to hear how you got on transferring the diff into the tmxr cover? What's involved and what spanner rating would you give the job?





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Slimy38

posted on 25/4/15 at 10:25 PM Reply With Quote
It's really easy to be honest, I'd give it a 1 spanner rating at most. There were a few things to note;

1. I removed the oil seals and reused them, but Phil actually said not to. I mainly did it to see if I could get away with it as they're £30 each! If it leaks it's not an issue to replace them after.
2. The cover inside edge was too tight on the diff, I had to just skim the edge with a file to get it to a point where I could use a rubber mallet.
3. DON'T use the bolts to draw the cover on, they will strip. Phil warned me not to and I didn't want to test the theory.
4. The vent, the filler plug and drain plug need to be transferred, so don't throw the casing away as soon as it comes off.

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dubzter

posted on 26/4/15 at 04:07 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
It's really easy to be honest, I'd give it a 1 spanner rating at most. There were a few things to note;

1. I removed the oil seals and reused them, but Phil actually said not to. I mainly did it to see if I could get away with it as they're £30 each! If it leaks it's not an issue to replace them after.
2. The cover inside edge was too tight on the diff, I had to just skim the edge with a file to get it to a point where I could use a rubber mallet.
3. DON'T use the bolts to draw the cover on, they will strip. Phil warned me not to and I didn't want to test the theory.
4. The vent, the filler plug and drain plug need to be transferred, so don't throw the casing away as soon as it comes off.


Sounds straight forward enough, cheers for that.





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PorkChop

posted on 29/4/15 at 09:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
1. I removed the oil seals and reused them, but Phil actually said not to. I mainly did it to see if I could get away with it as they're £30 each! If it leaks it's not an issue to replace them after.



The pre 93 ones can be had for cheaper than £30 a side, and the later (93-05) ones are less than £10 a side.

[Edited on 29/4/15 by PorkChop]

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Slimy38

posted on 29/4/15 at 09:49 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by PorkChop
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
1. I removed the oil seals and reused them, but Phil actually said not to. I mainly did it to see if I could get away with it as they're £30 each! If it leaks it's not an issue to replace them after.



The pre 93 ones can be had for cheaper than £30 a side, and the later (93-05) ones are less than £10 a side.

[Edited on 29/4/15 by PorkChop]


Ah, looks like the price has dropped since I last checked, yes the ones I would need are now £20 each + postage. (it's a 92 diff).

And yes, I did notice the later ones are a good deal cheaper!

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Mudchute

posted on 3/5/15 at 01:20 PM Reply With Quote
Hey guys,

I've reached the next decision to make. I'm going ahead with using mx5 running gear but I ultimately would like to fit a duratec using a Mazda gearbox.

Overall time will be limited over the next couple of years so I would like to build it with a duratec from the start however I understand this'll almost definitely mean a Q plate, is that correct?

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Slimy38

posted on 3/5/15 at 03:31 PM Reply With Quote
If you build it with running gear from one car and engine from another, it will get a Q. If you want an age related plate, then use all the Mazda and do an engine transplant later.
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Mudchute

posted on 3/5/15 at 04:03 PM Reply With Quote
I need to decide if I want an age related plate or not then...
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ianhurley20

posted on 3/5/15 at 05:29 PM Reply With Quote
For an age related plate you have to have two 'significant' parts from the donor car, you don't have to have all of them so Engine gearbox wiring loom is enough
Ian






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steve-hv8

posted on 5/5/15 at 10:56 PM Reply With Quote
so with the diff cover from talon can you retain the mx5 uprights with the standard sierra wishbones?
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Talon Motorsport

posted on 8/5/15 at 08:07 AM Reply With Quote
You use the standard Roadster chassis with the suspension and damper brackets as per the book. The upright needs moving forward by 9mm to get the the bottom of a standard 34mm wide coilover to line up next it, this means using a fixed/solid off set lower wishbone and twin camber adjusters in the top wishbones with a bolt running through the coilover, top mount with an adjuster either side of them.

[Edited on 8/5/15 by Talon Motorsport]

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steve-hv8

posted on 9/5/15 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
do you supply the wishbones that would allow the diff cover to be used in a sierra chassis with mx5 uprights?
quote:
Originally posted by Talon Motorsport
You use the standard Roadster chassis with the suspension and damper brackets as per the book. The upright needs moving forward by 9mm to get the the bottom of a standard 34mm wide coilover to line up next it, this means using a fixed/solid off set lower wishbone and twin camber adjusters in the top wishbones with a bolt running through the coilover, top mount with an adjuster either side of them.

[Edited on 8/5/15 by Talon Motorsport]

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Mudchute

posted on 9/5/15 at 06:56 PM Reply With Quote
And would you supply them as a kit?
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