Kaspa
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| posted on 4/2/08 at 03:07 AM |
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A bit more progress, chassis now all welded up ,thank god, no more alterations
stuck it on the scales and with steering rack, pedal box, front wishbones, gear change and cables fitted, 86kg, much better than i had hoped for.
considering i was a we bit generous with tubing. pluss roll cage is integeral.
one happy chappy
Kaspa
[Edited on 4/2/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Doug68
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| posted on 4/2/08 at 07:37 AM |
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Kaspa, your rate of progress is making me ill 
What type of tube is the frame constructed from? I'd have expected it to be the blue painted GR350? The non-painted material we get here has a
good finish but is GR250.
Doug. 1TG
Sports Car Builders WA
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cloudy
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| posted on 4/2/08 at 05:39 PM |
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What paint have you used on the front portion of the chassis?
James
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Kaspa
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| posted on 4/2/08 at 06:29 PM |
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"What paint have you used on the front portion of the chassis?"
Hi mate , just a couple of cans of brake caliper paint that was sitting on the shelf.
Doug, tubes are just 25mm seamed furniture tube, 2.6 mm i think, but roll bar and braces are FIA aproved roll bar tubing. its a helluva lot stronger
and stiffer than the original Stryka Chassis thats for sure, and it is yet to be panelled.
dont worry to much about progress , this is the easy part, ie little effort lots to show. now all the hard stuff starts, where no one notices a weeks
hard work
cheers Kaspa
[Edited on 4/2/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Ratman
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| posted on 5/2/08 at 02:59 AM |
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Just curious. Did you consider adding some diagonal members in the plan of the rear tubes from the top of the roll bar? I know these would need to be
removable, but they could well increase overall chassis torsional stiffness by several times. This would be especially effective if you could put a
diagonal or K-brace across the square under the engine. This would get you very close to a complete box made of triangles. You can't do better
than that.
[Edited on 5/2/08 by Ratman]
[Edited on 5/2/08 by Ratman]
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Kaspa
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| posted on 5/2/08 at 03:23 AM |
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HI Brian, i do intend to x brace the square under the engine, what i had in there i didnt like so ripped it out, and waiting for a couple of off cuts
to finnish off.
now i'm waiting for bits and peices to get machined up, 16 off, tube nuts for rose joints to wishbones, two rear uprites, and a couple of tie
rod extenders for steering rack, [wish i had a lathe]
and a trip to Auckland to pick up body moulds
dont think ill make whittakers some how.
cheers Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Kaspa
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| posted on 19/2/08 at 08:06 AM |
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Not an awfull lot to report i'm afraid, progress has come to a hault while i still await some bits and bobs i'm getting machined up and
rear uprights. all ive done latly is remount the rad to the front of the chassis, well frame and ducting are done will have to get some mods done on
rad. and have finalised and mounted the sterring column, wasnt as easy as it looks butits done finaly.
one question i do have for the masses, i have weighed up all the options and it looks like an inboard front set up will be the only way ,
so question what rocker ratio should i use, 1-1, 1.5-1, 2-1, everyone i speak to gives me a different opinion, for different reasons, so who has used
what and how did they find the result,
i havnt got any shocks or springs as yet so total design is still free.
progress to date
await you thoughts on rockers
Ps as some of you may have picked up, the front end is an early Stryker, if that helps at all. Thats all that remains of the old chassis I'm
sorry to say [engine was at wrong end]
cheers Kaspa
[Edited on 19/2/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Doug68
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| posted on 19/2/08 at 08:32 AM |
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IMHO the thing is to get as much damper travel as possible out of the arrangement. This reduces the loads you'll be putting into the frame as
the springs will be lighter as a result of the ratio used.
The other thing is why do you feel the need to go with rods & rockers? Whats the intended benefit?
Doug. 1TG
Sports Car Builders WA
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kikiturbo
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| posted on 19/2/08 at 08:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Doug68
IMHO the thing is to get as much damper travel as possible out of the arrangement. This reduces the loads you'll be putting into the frame as
the springs will be lighter as a result of the ratio used.
yeah, but you will need more travel from the dampers resulting in a heavier damper..
haivng said that, I went for 1:1 wheel / damper ratio, as you want as much damper travel and speed for optimum damping...
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Kaspa
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| posted on 19/2/08 at 09:16 AM |
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Doug , going inboard because now that iv'e widened the front track the shock angle will be very accute to say the least.
also if you look at the above pic you will see theres not a lot of clearance between the fork of the top wishbone for a shock. let alone a spring.
the pluss is of course less unsprung weight and easier ride height adjustability.
cheers Kaspa
[Edited on 19/2/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Doug68
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| posted on 19/2/08 at 09:28 AM |
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I think I'd have to disagree about the unsprung weight.
If it's in between the wheel and the spring then then its unsprung, so the unsprung mass has to go up surely due the rod and other parts
added?
I assume in either case you'd mount the damper with the body of the damper bolted to the frame.
Doug. 1TG
Sports Car Builders WA
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Kaspa
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| posted on 6/3/08 at 10:26 PM |
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Oh dear the things we do, saw this for sale recently at the right price, and couldnt resist, so a change of plan looks likely, all set up for Subaru
EJ20T and trans, which are included.
its very well designed and built, comes with all CAD drawings etc for both chassis and body, a 1/4 scale model shown below
the chassis is missing a couple of diagonals in the front in my opinion but other wise looks very good,
front suspension set up, push rod with Konis, Mazda RX7 uprites and brakes etc,
Rear suspension set up to be completed, no shocks or push rods as yet
Cheers Kaspa
[Edited on 6/3/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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TheGecko
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| posted on 6/3/08 at 11:43 PM |
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G'day Kaspa,
Can't help yourself can you  Oh well, there no such thing as too many projects - just not enough time.
That 1/4 scale model looks interesting and very detailed. Is it made from tin-plate or something? (judging from the rust visible at the front) It
looks like an attempt (successful too!) to prove that you can make a good looking body almost entirely from flat planes and simple curves. Quite nice
- I'd be interested to see how it looks with a coat of paint.
Good luck with the new project - I look forward to seeing updates.
Dominic
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Kaspa
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| posted on 7/3/08 at 12:05 AM |
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Hi Dom, now you understand why when the boss said OK i jumped at it.
I havnt physicly seen it as yet but my mate inspected it [who has the Nemisis} and gave it the thumbs up so we bought it last night for a song.
i think the body model is metal and theres a model of the chassis under that as well. he has obviously done a lot more homework than i did with the
JRC, and the end product shows it.
i will get to see it next weekend when i go to Auckland for the next race meet.
cheers Mate
John
[Edited on 7/3/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Doug68
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| posted on 7/3/08 at 06:57 AM |
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Hi Kaspa, that looks like a great buy, again there's room for another engine in between the motor and the roll frame.
Do you plan on keeping the Suby drive line or doing something else?
What are the class rules you have to work in BTW are ground effects forbidden?
and what are the 2 trays for in front of the inter-coolers?
Doug. 1TG
Sports Car Builders WA
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Kaspa
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| posted on 7/3/08 at 09:44 AM |
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Hi Doug trays are for two alloy fuel tanks which i wont use, no intention of enduro runs.
ground afects free tell me more , its physicaly the same size as a Saker so will be putting some serious thought into ground effects
will run with the subby 450hp cant be all that bad
Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Ratman
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| posted on 7/3/08 at 04:15 PM |
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Just harking back to the discussion above on inboard suspension. It seems to me there is no "unsprung weight" advantage as the inboard
mechanism adds additional inertia to the suspension movement. One valuable part of an inboard system is to keep the coil/damper unit out of the
slipstream in a car with open wheels or cycle guards. But to me the greatest advantage is that by using a bell crank it is possible to create a
steeply rising rate to the suspension enabling the car to be set up with lower ground clearance. Curiously, the geometry of many bell cranks that you
see are often set up to give falling rate... I wonder if the builders appreciate the opportunity they have. A negative feature of inboard systems is
that you then have to accept full suspension loads at several points in the chassis structure. The bell crank fulcrum loads are higher then the coil
over mount loads. To provide all this additional stiffness and strength adds weight. If it is not provided adequately then the chassis will distort
under sever suspension loads and vibrations. On the other hand .. if you do an inboard system like a race car eg F1 .. then both of the struts are
taken to a single unit which takes care of spring, damping and roll with hydraulics and computer control. this will save weight and add all sorts of
advantages.. but not the sort of thing most of us can cobble together in the garden shed.
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Doug68
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| posted on 8/3/08 at 05:53 AM |
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Kaspa, most classes these days say the floor in between the axle lines should be flat.
If thats not the case then you're free to make the side pods into wings.
To cut a very long story short to make the things work properly the car needs to be very close to the ground to make it work properly and preferably
the side pods need to be sealed against the ground preferably.
You'll need to a good deal of research to make the thing work properly. Staniforths Race & Rally Car Source book covers the development of
such a car he was involved in the design of.
I'm sure someone can give a better explanation of the subject than me.
Doug. 1TG
Sports Car Builders WA
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Kaspa
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| posted on 8/3/08 at 06:28 AM |
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correct Doug same for us , but front and rear diffuser designs are pretty much free, so will be putting some thought into that area, its a pity an
affordable wind tunnel wasnt available as we have a very accurate 1/4 scale model to play with, a luxery i've certainly never had before.. i
believe there are some simulation programs out there some where though, do no of or have heard of any of these.
btw i had a lot more pics sent to me this morning , if you PM your email ill send them over for you to have a look at , much more detail than what ive
shown you to date
cheers John
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Kaspa
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 02:32 AM |
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Doug i dont think we will have to worry about wind tunnel testing the body design.
it turns out Porsche have already done all that for us, the body is a copy of the TWR-WSC-95 le Man LMP1 car from 95-96 era.
the Black no 7 that won in 96
i bought everything home last night and am amazzed at the degree of accuracy in the build, hope i can keep the same standard in the completion
cheers Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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Kaspa
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| posted on 27/4/08 at 05:00 AM |
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well progress has been a bit slack lately, what with moving house and all, then having to find new job in new town ,not much time been spent in
shed.
but alas things are almost back to normal and i started on some minor work, but hey its a start.
also had a visit this morning from the designer and builder of the Saker, and for what its worth Bruce was very impressed, and pointed out a couple of
design features that i hadnt noticed,[ one, the whole of the chassis has been TIG welded] and has given it a 100%, he was also very interested in a
number of features that he wished he had incooperated into his cars, so that made me feel good, and after a couple of coffes and much discussion i now
have access to a top engine and gearbox combo to go into it, so that has been finalised.
am going to spend the next week or two getting the front bulk head , side and floor panelling done, which i started today, so when ive finaly got
something to show i will post some updated pics.
watch this space
Cheers Kaspa
[Edited on 27/4/08 by Kaspa]
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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rachaeljf
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| posted on 29/4/08 at 09:17 AM |
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Newbie, but I am a structural engineer!
Hi all, sorry to butt in, but is anybody else made nervous by that photo of Kaspa's rear suspension? I see several bending moments applied where
they shouldn't be.
Cheers R
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Kaspa
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| posted on 3/5/08 at 08:53 PM |
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Very observant there Mr R, whats still missing is a x brace between the front of the rear suspension pick ups , will go over top of bell housing, and
be removable, reason it isnt there yet is rear shock ,bell crank position hasnt been finalised, just waiting for Drawing from Andrew,
But rest assuerd the engine bay will be braced, and the bottom will have a 3mm alloy floor attached.
good to see eagle eyes are out there though,
cheers Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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stulad
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| posted on 12/5/08 at 09:21 PM |
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cool looking cars, sorry i havent been on in ages but thought id just show you how my build is progressing. i have now built a 6 litre ls1 engine for
my car should knock out 450 bhp this has meant replacing the renault gearbox and bell housing that i need to now sell for a porsche box , turns out it
was a 4wd so have designed and made an adapter to turn it into 2wd so have a porsche box now that cost me £500 car is progressing slowly but at
least its progressing any way the web site shows better as i could chat here for hours
www.minotaur-kitcar.co.uk
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Kaspa
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| posted on 6/8/08 at 08:35 AM |
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havnt posted much for a while but theres been a little progress, engine is in, as is new gearbox, tub is all paneled and seats in and shifter made and
working.
pics here if your interested
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff257/stryka_01/Stanton%20WRC-95/
cheers Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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