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Author: Subject: Attention engine Gurus!
mookaloid

posted on 20/9/04 at 10:03 AM Reply With Quote
Attention engine Gurus!

Having just had a first go at hillclimbing, I think I might need significantly more power for next year....

I have a pinto with 205 block, gas flowed head and 45's giving about 145 Bhp.

I would like 200+ Bhp can I bolt on a cosworth head and continue to use my weber 45s? what sort of power could I get with this set up?

is this the best way to go or should I change to Vauxhall (or something else?) power?

Cheers

Mark

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DaveFJ

posted on 20/9/04 at 10:14 AM Reply With Quote
Des Hammils book goes into some depth about how to fit a cossie head to a standard 205 block... seems quite 'do-able'
(am looking into it myself)

Here





Dave

"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always

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Mikey G

posted on 20/9/04 at 10:46 AM Reply With Quote
You will probably find it quite expensive to get a Cossie head to run properly when Naturally aspirated, you may need to change pistons to start with to get the compression right. Manifolds shouldnt be a problem although a bespoke exhaust manifold is probably needed for a Locost. Ignition shouldnt be a problem as both the pinto and early cossie are distributor based but you may need a dizzy with a special advance curve made up. And heads are not that cheap either! Cams are gonna be another £400-£600 if you replace both of them and i should think its a neccesity as the original cams are setup for a turbo motor.
I think it would be a worthwhile conversion considering if you change the motor altogether you would also have to change your engine bay due to engine configuration (Cossie inlet to the right, Zetec/Vauxhall to the left)

Mike

[Edited on 20/9/04 by Mikey G]

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garage19

posted on 20/9/04 at 10:55 AM Reply With Quote
Problem with cossie heads in NA applications is that you have to do alot of expensive head work to get them to flow as well as some thing like a zetec head.
The cossie head is designed to have air pushed through it at high rpm and there doesnt need large ports like an NA head.

Some would say I'm biased but i would swap out the pinto and chuck in a pre 95 2ltr zetec. You can still use your 45s and gearbox and should see 175bhp+ with a good exhaust manifold.

DC






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chick

posted on 20/9/04 at 12:46 PM Reply With Quote
I would really recommend a read of:

How to Modify Ford Single Overhead Camshaft Engines
by David Vizard

Amazon flog it, and its a really good read.

Tim

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NS Dev

posted on 20/9/04 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
If you already have a really strong pinto bottom end with very low mileage then it is probably worth doing. You can get a head for reasonable money, and if you can find somebody to port it and get some s/h cams and new followers it needn't cost the earth to do.
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macspeedy

posted on 20/9/04 at 08:10 PM Reply With Quote
fairly comprehensive site about what you have mentioned, 145 is that bhp figure at the wheels? just curious

http://members.aol.com/DVAndrews/

[Edited on 20/9/04 by macspeedy]

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mookaloid

posted on 20/9/04 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks guys - I will get Des Hammils book - already have the Vizard.

The 145 is estimated at the crank I got about 110 at the wheels on a rolling road.

I appreciate I can get more out of the pinto yet but my concern is should I spend cash going that way when maybe I could spend it better in another direction.

I saw this earlier http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/pug16v.htm - peugeot engine!!! thoughts anyone? what gearbox could I use if I got one of these?

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NS Dev

posted on 20/9/04 at 08:38 PM Reply With Quote
Pug engine, very good, very light, similar performance to the Vauxhall XE 16v as a "standard internally but with good induction and exhaust" sort of level.

Not sure on the 'box. Flowtech racing used to do a bellhousing to mate the pug engine to the Ford Type 9 'box for the old 8v Pug engine (basically the same as the 16v block-wise) for use in hot-rod racing but Flowtech have disappeared I think. Somebody mentioned the use of a freight-rover 'box as used with the 1.9 pug diesel but I have never heard of this one in practice.

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mookaloid

posted on 20/9/04 at 08:54 PM Reply With Quote
not sure about a freight rover box - can that possibly be as good as my type9? I have the XR4i close ratio box just now and would like to keep it if at all possible
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Rob Lane

posted on 21/9/04 at 07:54 AM Reply With Quote
I think it's the Sherpa Freight Rover van that has the bellhousing to fit the Type 9 to Pug. Not sure though.

I don't think the Pinto was a competitive engine in the class, it's a heavy engine and lacks good tuning bits.

There was a guy with a Pug Mi16 fitted in a Dutton that used to be in top 3 all the time. I marvelled at his times until finally one day he had front off for a while to do some work.

It was no longer a Dutton, in fact it only looked like one.
It had a small light tube spaceframe, the bodywork was a lighter weight fibreglass copy. The engine was fully tuned race spec with twin 45 webers on a custom manifold.
Turns out he worked for a Pug main dealers.

You've caught the power bug then ?

That happens as soon as you get on track and finish your very first run, you want to win and think you need more power.

Not necessarily so, in the class I ran in up to 1700cc, we were all regularily beaten by a guy with an early pre-lit westie fitted with a very nicely tuned 1300cc xflow. It only made 110bhp but the car was nimble and light.

He was also a very experienced driver.

Much as it often pains to admit, it's driving first, then power.
Like everyone else on track I wished I was faster.

With feedback and checking times I discovered I was fastest for the first 150m from the start. No-one beat my standing start and first 60m dash but after that it was the driving style that let me down. I had practiced the starts and found the best style of takeoff.

I did the Harewood Driving school course and that helped a lot but finally costs persuaded me to stop for a while.

I intend to try again maybe next year but with costs approaching £150 for a weekend and competing every other weekend it mounts up.

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stressy

posted on 21/9/04 at 08:36 AM Reply With Quote
Tyres and brakes

Hi mate,

An aquaintance of mine started hillclimbing a couple of years ago (when i have enough cash, im gonna have a crack myself, but from where i live its rather expensive)

He started running with a pinto and eventually ended up with a QED prepared vauxall circa 225bhp. Problem was that the times with the pinto were slowest and the unmodified vaux the fastest, as being a novice meant he was loosing out coming from the apexes where he just could not get the power down with the modded engine. He has now converted to running avons and the times are rising again.

The other thing was braking where he was looking to slow from near 100mph to 25mph on undulating uphill curved road, the tyres have made a huge difference, along with lighter weight brakes and wheels.

I guess what im saying is hillclimbing seems to revolve around composed handling, power and grip, ignoring the handling, you cant use the power without the grip.

It would be worth spending a chunk of your budget on some sticky stuff (depending on your class permissions) as this will aid acceleration, cornering and braking, and SAFETY.





WHO DARES SPINS

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mookaloid

posted on 21/9/04 at 09:41 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Rob, Hi Stressy,

Thanks for taking the time to do those postings, I do understand that to be successful the whole package has to right.
I have already identified the weakest link in the package...... me to this end I will be attending a course in the new year and if finances permit, I would like to campaign the whole season, developing my skills and the car as I go.

My short list of priorities for the new year has to be

1. Training
2. the stickiest rubber that the class allows
3. quick rack
4. windscreen and wipers to allow me to stay in the kit car class
5. get a full wheel alignment

after that I will leave the car alone for a while as I believe the next important thing is for me to get some consistency i.e. I need to be able to reproduce times so that any changes to the car can then be correctly evaluated.

That's the theory anyway, of course there's always the power thing nagging away.... I wonder if I can put a turbo on a Pinto

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Rob Lane

posted on 21/9/04 at 11:04 AM Reply With Quote
Must admit that tyres was one of the biggest single improvements next to the LSD. That alone knocked 1.5 secs of my normal runs. No more cocking a spinning wheel up in air.

You can turbo a Pinto or a Cossie but then there's the 1.9 penalty to apply for forced induction.

There was a Dax with a Cos turbo in our events, he gave up in end and sold it.
It was a pig to control, it had to be watched as when revs rose in mid bend it would suddenly piruette, as boost came in with a bump. Sometimes it would be off boost just when he needed it.
He got fed up with it.

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mookaloid

posted on 21/9/04 at 11:20 AM Reply With Quote
Actually I was only kidding about the turbo bit.........
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Rob Lane

posted on 21/9/04 at 11:23 AM Reply With Quote
Yeah I guessed.

Quick rack is great for catching a 'moment' but can make car a bit twitchy at speed.

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mookaloid

posted on 21/9/04 at 11:35 AM Reply With Quote
Well I certainly had quite a few 'moments' and I believe the standard rack made it harder to bring back in line.

I have an LSD already so I guess that helped - otherwise I suspect I wouldn't have got away with it......

Most people I have spoken to think a quick rack is a good idea on balance even given the twitchiness at speed, I can only give it a go and see - it's not the most expensive risk to take after all.

Anyone got thoughts on the best (stickiest) tyres?

Mark

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Stu16v

posted on 21/9/04 at 11:46 AM Reply With Quote
Are you governed by any regulations on tyres?

If they 'only' have to be road legal, Yoko A048's, or Avon ACB10's...





Dont just build it.....make it!

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Rob Lane

posted on 21/9/04 at 01:45 PM Reply With Quote
You'll find the quickrack a joy to use. It makes it a true 'racer' type whereby you normally don't let go of wheel except for slow manouvering. i.e. slightly crossed hands for tight bend only, else just a slight movement of wrist to change direction.

List 1A applies which limits choice somewhat as they never catch up with latest road tyre developements.

I settled on Yoko AVS Sport's but that was my best choice given my wheel size.
They are the wet weather tyre for use in Toyota Formula Atlantic series. The tread although cut is actually one piece all round when looked at closely.

[Edited on 21/9/04 by Rob Lane]

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andyps

posted on 21/9/04 at 08:21 PM Reply With Quote
Did you compete at Harewood at teh weekend? I didn't manage to get there unfortunately so missed all the action, gather it was a good weekend.

A turbo wouldn't be a good idea as you would end up in a class where being competitive would be very difficult.

At least one of the Westfields at Harewood has a tuned Puma engine which I gather gives pretty good power, but not sure quite how much. I will try to find out for you.





Andy

An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less

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mookaloid

posted on 21/9/04 at 09:14 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the tyre info guys - I need to check the regs to see what I will be allowed.

Hi Andy, yes I was there - ah I see you've seen my posting about it. It was just great

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