billy
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| posted on 27/2/05 at 08:42 PM |
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bad handling
hi peeps, my luego book chassis with sierra uprights and mushroom inserts, seems to be hard work when driving. anyone out there using the same setup
have any tips on the best setup? the hole is offset on the thing and im not sure where the best position for it is. ta
luego-lo-cost finished,vauxhall 16v 2.0,twin 45s de-dion rear set up
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billy
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| posted on 27/2/05 at 09:04 PM |
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dos this affect the castor??? oh by the way i have virtualy no self centering this aint right is it
[Edited on 27/2/05 by billy]
luego-lo-cost finished,vauxhall 16v 2.0,twin 45s de-dion rear set up
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 27/2/05 at 09:32 PM |
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you will have zero self centre when set up proper, if your front track is out it will feel very unstable, (especially if you have excessive toe out)
it will feel like it has a mind of its own wandering around left or right and giving you no confidence, advise you have it checked and set up some
where if you have'nt allready
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billy
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| posted on 27/2/05 at 09:49 PM |
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i saw dez hamill today, he looked at it and said im suprised you aint crashed it yet, ive set the tracking parallel using some high tech 7x1 prepared
timber. im just starting to wonder if thats wot they drive like im not impressed
luego-lo-cost finished,vauxhall 16v 2.0,twin 45s de-dion rear set up
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 27/2/05 at 09:59 PM |
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set up proper it will be like a dart, not sure timber will give you accurate settings, a starter maybe but not the finished article,
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 27/2/05 at 10:04 PM |
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Sevens tend to have 'lively' handling, and the steering is very much 'point and shoot' when set up properly. It can be a bit
of a shock after driving a FWD spam-can. It took me a while to get familiar with mine, then I found it very enjoyable.
If you feel that you don't have confidence in your car, or it's hard work to drive, then I suggest that there's something
significantly wrong with its setup. Are you very far from Luego? Maybe they can help you out, or at least offer advice - it's in their own
interest to assist you.
Being so light, seven's are sensitive to minor setup changes - damper settings, camber, toe-in etc. Perhaps getting the toe-in set properly by
a friendly local garage may help. Cost me £10 when I had it done.
Good luck,
David
[Edited on 27/2/05 by David Jenkins]
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 27/2/05 at 10:06 PM |
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If you have set it up paralell statically, it will be toeing out when in motion, you need a little toe in to compensate. If you set the mushrooms
holes forward, you will not affect the castor, but will give some trail due to the stub axle being behind the line behind the line drawn between the
upper and lower balljoints. This will accentuate the toe out in motion trait, so you will need to add even more toe in to get a parallel toe in
motion. This MAY give you some self centring
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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billy
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| posted on 27/2/05 at 10:30 PM |
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im not sure but most of the wishbones to take the sierra uprights are the wider track compared to when you use cortina uprights, now i have the
shorter wishbones and in using sierra uprights. ive almost ran out of thread on the escort steering rack im using. Mark im not sure what you mean the
tracking changes when your moving? by the way the wheelbase on the front is 75mm narrower on the front to the rear, is this good????
luego-lo-cost finished,vauxhall 16v 2.0,twin 45s de-dion rear set up
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 27/2/05 at 11:05 PM |
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I don't think the track difference should be a problem.
Rear wheel drive cars are set up with toe in and front drive cars are set with toe out (certain exeptions). This is to compensate for the dynamic
effect which forces the wheels in or out, the theory is to have the wheel parallel when the car is in motion. (race cars alter this to alter the turn
in characteristic, but they also have a new set of tyres for every meeting).
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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britishtrident
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| posted on 28/2/05 at 08:38 AM |
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By wheelbase I think you actually mean track ? Wheelbase is length wise, track is width -- To answer your question a track difference front and rear
makes a lot less difference than you would expect
Check list --- for alignment & geometry checks car should be laden
Dampers --- again because it is a very light car start testing with a very soft setting
Camber -0.5 to -1.25 (ie wheel out at bottom)
Toe-in --- say 1/8" (0.2mm) +- 1/16" (should always be toe in ).
Also jack up the car and check the steering wheel turns freelly from lock to lock without binding at either full lock or "lumpyness".
Binding on ful lock indicates a maladjusted or bent rack, lumpyness indicates binding column universal joints.
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billy
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| posted on 28/2/05 at 08:18 PM |
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thanks alot lads for help, mrG drove it today and says he thinks its alot better now so im going in the right direction
luego-lo-cost finished,vauxhall 16v 2.0,twin 45s de-dion rear set up
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